Anyone here on FordBarn have one?

[rockfla]

I came upon a Merco Tronic coil & condenser tester......Anyone here on the "Barn" have one???

[flatford8]

I’ve collected some vintage test equipment but I don’t have one of those. It would nice to have.......especially if it still worked!.......Mark

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by flatford8

I’ve collected some vintage test equipment but I don’t have one of those. It would nice to have.......especially if it still worked!.......Mark

It hum's when its turned on, I wanted to make 100% sure I knew exactly how to hook what leads where so I can check it and see. I am pretty sure of what hooks where BUT......??? There is one youtube video of a fellow who has one and is showing how to test Magneto's with his, there are are few Merc o Tronic Model 98 Video's the I have watched that I think will "cross" to the 60 BUT was hoping someone on here would have one and know for sure!!! ALSO a google search has yielded NO operators manual for the 60. SO It would be nice to know exactly what all the dials/buttons do and sort of a sequence as insurance as well!!!

[Merc Cruzer]

Give this a try:

https://www.smokstak.com/forum/threa...-tester.59117/

[glennpm]

on ebay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/371897426130

Found this link. You will need to register on the site where it was posted.

https://www.smokstak.com/forum/threa...8/post-1846423

[ndnchf]

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How does it test coil strength - is there a spark gap somewere? I don't have one of those. But do have an old Herbrand coil and condenser tester that I resurrected from the dead. It uses an internal vibrator to simulate points. Yours may have something similar. But I dont see a spark gap in the photo.

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by ndnchf

How does it test coil strength - is there a spark gap somewere? I don't have one of those. But do have an old Herbrand coil and condenser tester that I resurrected from the dead. It uses an internal vibrator to simulate points. Yours may have something similar. But I dont see a spark gap in the photo.

Little black dot (circle) on the upper right is the spark gap window. Maybe you could possibly help on how/where to hook the leads up on mine??? I have a smaller black and red lead with alligator clips on the end almost side by side AND I have one slightly heavier RED lead with a alligator clip on it by itself all exiting the back of the machine. I see no where to hook a battery or select 6V or 12V but I do also have a plug for plugging into 115V.


I believe you posted earlier about your HT-660 and your post is what lead me to this.....Still in search of one like yours!!!

[ndnchf]

Ahh, ok. I was wondering about the black hole. Since yours runs on 115v, it must have a step down transformer. It may have a vibrator too. Have you opened it up to see what's inside? Here is the Herbrand hook up diagram. Your mileage may vary.....

[rockfla]

Ndnchf
Here is a few more photos, the first being the spark window, the second being the wiring in the rear…..I noticed the 115V plug the ground stem is broken off, not sure IF that should be repaired/replaced before I try it OR if that will affect the operation. I just got this thing yesterday afternoon so have not messed with it or opened it up yet. The third is once again all the operating dials and buttons!!

I am guessing to test a condenser I would just connect the two smaller black and red leads ONLY??

[ndnchf]

My guess is that inside you'll find a step down transformer, vibrator and a capacitor/condenser. They are really quite simple. I had to work on the vibrator to get mine working. I also replaced the condenser.

Here's a video I made using mine.
https://youtu.be/7thA6UA5kbk

[rockfla]

Ndnchf
So I am taking from your hand drawn diagram....SINCE mine has its own power supply.....MY hook up procedure would be.....The "single" heavy red lead would go to the coil "output" to the distributor.......The smaller "black" lead would go to the "battery" side of the coil.......AND the smaller red lead to the "coil" side of the coil???? NOW the big question IS on a flathead coil, would the smaller red lead attach to the condenser as it screws onto the coil?? Black lead to the small threaded stud where the "hot" wire attaches??? Big red lead to the spring on the bottom that contacts the distributor??


FOR The condenser test: small black lead to the ground of the condenser, small red lead to the output side of the condenser???


Thanks
Rockfla

[ndnchf]

That diagram is from the Herbrand manual. If you send your email address, I can send a pdf of the whole manual. I don't know how helpful it will be, but it might provide some hints. I'm a model A guy, so I can't speak to a flathead coil/condenser set up.

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by ndnchf

That diagram is from the Herbrand manual. If you send your email address, I can send a pdf of the whole manual. I don't know how helpful it will be, but it might provide some hints. I'm a model A guy, so I can't speak to a flathead coil/condenser set up.

Okay, I took the top loose and checked it out all inside. Clean as a whistle and looks as new with the exception of a little surface oxidation on the two lugs on the back of the meter. I plugged it in, when you turn it on it hums. Since I wasn’t sure about coils I switched it to condenser capacity….I tested 3 condenser I have one - used from my 39 Mercury, 2 years on the car then wouldn’t start one day SO I figured it was bad - on capacity test it was 3.4. Second condenser I tested is a brand new UN-installed one - capacity tested 3.4 on the meter. 3rd one was an old one off a 36 coil I got with some parts- test 4.0 on the meter. When I switch to condenser short/leakage test -nothing on all three, turning all dials pushing the red button nothing, nothing in the spark view window? Pictured is how I have it wired up and what the “old” condenser show on the capacity meter!!! Suggestions???

Does the condenser need to be installed In the coil before you can short/leakage test maybe??
Second question, since this one had its own power supply….I suspect it’s converting to 12V and so I wouldn’t be able to test on 6V, NO??? I would need a 12V coil IF that is needed to do the short/leakage test?