Fuel line replacement tank to pump

[Jerold Ebke]

I would like to replace my original fuel line on my 1955 Crown Victoria. It is my understanding that to replace with an original, this must be done with the body lifted off the frame. I am hoping to accomplish without this extreme effort.
What have you done to upgrade your fuel lines without using an original replacement?

[56sedandelivery]

Do not know why you would have to take the body off. On my 56 SD the fuel line runs along the outside edge of the pass side frame. Only place that could be a problem is where it goes over the frame rail to the tank. Might use something other then a one piece line to make it easier.

[paul2748]

When I replaced the line on my 56 Bird, I cut the line near where it turns toward the tank, reflared the cut ends. This allowed me to get the back part in.



You might check with the suppliers to see if they offer a two piece line.

[Daves55Sedan]

On my '55 sedan, I got a stainless-steel replacement (one-piece) gas line tubing from Inline Tubing and installed it during a body-off frame restoration, so that was no trouble at all and the line fit perfectly.
When I did the body-off-frame restoration of my '55 Courier wagon, I got lengths of tubing as needed from the chain auto parts store, pieced it together and made the bends myself using a cheap tubing bender.
If you are planning to install an electric fuel pump (near the gas tank), you could cut off a duplicate of original gas line where it turns and runs above the frame at the rear and modify or make up the remainder from there to the pump, then the tank yourself.
There is absolutely no way you can get a duplicate one-piece fuel line installed in one of these cars without lifting the body off the frame (without some cutting or major bending and re-bending).
If you want the cleanest and most original looking result, go for the Inline Tubing one-piece tubing.
If you are going to make your own, you will need to get a short radius tubing bender for the bends at frame crossover locations (1 at front and 1 at rear). Use the standard bending radius for all other bends.
I recommend using the tubing with flared ends and fittings. These are leakproof when tight and don't need maintenance.

[fordor41]

I use brake line of same size as the fuel line. I use shorter lenghts (3-4') where needed to fish it around difficult spots. Also I used Nitrile hose where needed. It's ethanol friendly.
bought hose thru Mcmaster-Carr Supply.

[Daves55Sedan]

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Originally Posted by fordor41

I use brake line of same size as the fuel line. I use shorter lenghts (3-4') where needed to fish it around difficult spots. Also I used Nitrile hose where needed. It's ethanol friendly.
bought hose thru Mcmaster-Carr Supply.

The fuel line size is 5/16" tubing. Most chain auto parts stores sell the cadmium plated stuff, but some offer copper tubing also. Yes, you need to use ethanol friendly rubber fuel hose if you are planning to butt-splice the tubing, but eventually the hose will crack and leak. The metal tubing with flare fittings will last a lifetime. The stainless-steel tubing with flare fittings would probably last until the sun goes nova. But you'd have to order the SS tubing.

[Gene F]

Originally Posted by Daves55Sedan

On my '55 sedan, I got a stainless-steel replacement (one-piece) gas line tubing from Inline Tubing and installed it during a body-off frame restoration, so that was no trouble at all and the line fit perfectly.
When I did the body-off-frame restoration of my '55 Courier wagon, I got lengths of tubing as needed from the chain auto parts store, pieced it together and made the bends myself using a cheap tubing bender.
If you are planning to install an electric fuel pump (near the gas tank), you could cut off a duplicate of original gas line where it turns and runs above the frame at the rear and modify or make up the remainder from there to the pump, then the tank yourself.
There is absolutely no way you can get a duplicate one-piece fuel line installed in one of these cars without lifting the body off the frame (without some cutting or major bending and re-bending).
If you want the cleanest and most original looking result, go for the Inline Tubing one-piece tubing.
If you are going to make your own, you will need to get a short radius tubing bender for the bends at frame crossover locations (1 at front and 1 at rear). Use the standard bending radius for all other bends.
I recommend using the tubing with flared ends and fittings. These are leakproof when tight and don't need maintenance.

Where do you get a short radius bender, and still be a able to get the nut on and put the standard (old time) flare ont he end?

[55blacktie]

If "[t]he metal tubing with flare fittings will last a lifetime," why is there a need to replace it? If contaminated, can it be cleaned out? What about using PTFE braided hose/w AN fittings?

[5851a]

Originally Posted by Gene F

Where do you get a short radius bender, and still be a able to get the nut on and put the standard (old time) flare ont he end?

Have to do the fitting first. Sometimes takes more than 1 trial. Usually by the time I'm done to my satisfaction there is more mistake tubing on the floor than under the car. If it's a short run of tubing, you can cap the end fittings after you fill the tube with fine sand very tightly compressed and bend the tubing around sockets and such. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Last couple vehicles I did I used Inland tubing preformed lines. Was a duplicate of original, so if the original was installed before steering box or engine it can take a while to install.

[oldbugger]

copper nichol tubing is easy to bend and flare, will not rust, comes in a 25 ft roll

[Gene F]

5851A, and oldbugger, I have began using the copper nichol alloy tubing. NAPA sole me some for a fuel pump to carb line I made up for my streetrod carb. Mush easier to work with, and it looks just dandy. I do put the nut on and flare first. A "close bend" I even have those little bending pliers, still super hard to pull off. The sand thing...I have yet to get that to work. I can never get the tape to hold for one thing. Maybe I can get some rubber tubing plugs...

[Jerold Ebke]

Thanks for the ideas.

[5851a]

For the sand method I have fittings to screw on that are blanked off. Still not 100% though. I'm going to have to try that Nicop type next time.