Adjusting doors, 29 roadster

[Mikko_]

I'm working on a 1929 roadster and I'm trying to get the doors to fit a little better than they do right now, see pictures.

I know they weren't perfect from the factory but I would like them to fit a bit better even if they open and close decent at the moment.


Should I shim the wood body mount blocks?
Which ones should I focus on if so?

Or should I focus on the hinges them self?

Help appreciated.

[springerpete]

Looks the same as my 29 roadster. If they close and open OK and if they stay closed gpog around corners I think you should leave them alone. Bill

[Mikko_]

The car is not driveable at the moment so I don't know if they are staying closed when cornering yet.

Maybe I'll just leave them as is for now and keep on working with other stuff that needs to be done to the car.

[Keith True]

If it's an original body and doors,(not Brookville) get a measurement between the top iron mounting tabs.Those bodies do spread over time with use and abuse over the years.I forget what the measurement is supposed to be on the early open cars.

[Marshall V. Daut]

These doors can be bent by hand to conform to the rear quarter panels. But in so doing, you may undo an alignment elsewhere. Actually, your doors look about as good as can be expected from a 5,000,000 model mass-produced lower priced car of that era. I have seen "show car" '28-29 roadsters with a poorer door fit than yours. Paint the body a dark color and the gaps will "disappear".
Marshall

[gdmn852]

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Hello, I have a 31 roadster, and after shimming , bending, etc. doors are about like yours . I also would leave them alone unless you have door closing problems. There are some early posts on body shimming on the born . Good luck.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

The issue is not with the hinges. It is the Seat Trim Rails are not correct.

To correct this, install a couple pieces of threaded rod between the Top Socket mounts. Then by threading the nuts outward or inward will change the width of the quarter panel. This opens or closes the gap at the bottom. Then when the Center Trim Rail Wood (A40810-A) and the Side Trim Rails (A-40811-A & 40812-A) are glued together, at that point when they form the 'U' shape and are fastened to the upper deck and quarters, it provides the brace to hold the quarter panels.

Also, if your car has new doors, -or repaired doors, the outer skin must be properly crimped on -or tack/spot welded in multiple places so that the Door becomes rigid. If the Doors are properly crimped (-or welded), you should not be able to bend or twist them to form them to the curvature of the Lock Pillar. If you can bend/twist them, they will never stay in the shape you bend them to.

[Mikko_]

Thanks for all the advice, much appreciated.

[Mikko_]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

The issue is not with the hinges. It is the Seat Trim Rails are not correct.

To correct this, install a couple pieces of threaded rod between the Top Socket mounts. Then by threading the nuts outward or inward will change the width of the quarter panel. This opens or closes the gap at the bottom. Then when the Center Trim Rail Wood (A40810-A) and the Side Trim Rails (A-40811-A & 40812-A) are glued together, at that point when they form the 'U' shape and are fastened to the upper deck and quarters, it provides the brace to hold the quarter panels.

Also, if your car has new doors, -or repaired doors, the outer skin must be properly crimped on -or tack/spot welded in multiple places so that the Door becomes rigid. If the Doors are properly crimped (-or welded), you should not be able to bend or twist them to form them to the curvature of the Lock Pillar. If you can bend/twist them, they will never stay in the shape you bend them to.

Thanks.

Seat trim rails, is that the same as the wood part numbers you refer to?

Top socket mounts, is this the little tabs that stick up from the quarter panels, that the top bows are attached to?

The doors are original Ford, I do not believe they have been messed with before.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Mikko_

Thanks.

Seat trim rails, is that the same as the wood part numbers you refer to?
Yes, factory part numbers.


Top socket mounts, is this the little tabs that stick up from the quarter panels, that the top bows are attached to?
Yes, that is correct.


The doors are original Ford, I do not believe they have been messed with before.
That's good then.

Answers above...

[Dan McEachern]

The current fit looks pretty darn good to me!!

[Mikko_]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

Answers above...

Thanks for the clarification.

[Mikko_]

Originally Posted by Dan McEachern

The current fit looks pretty darn good to me!!

They do look better in the pictures than real life.

[Mikko_]

Pulled the quarters together with a ratchet strap, probably pulled the doors in about 1/4 inch on each side.

Then I welded up a small crack in the left quarter panel, reinstalled the wood pieces (with glue) and I also made 2 small angle irons (1 for each side) that I screwed to the inside corners of the wood pieces to further brace them a bit.

I'll let the glue set over night before removing the strap and see if it holds the shape.

[Tim Ayers]

I agree with other's advice. Here is my original body '28. I fooled with it quite a bit and got them opening and closely very nicely and this is what I ended up with.