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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Santa Ana, Cal 92704
Posts: 106
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My rear main is leaking oil badly. Babbitt bearings are newly done. It will put a 12-to-18-inch circle of oil on the ground after about 20 minutes of running. I found that the bearing has about 4 thousands clearance. Would that in itself cause it to leak like it does? Yes, the drain tube is in place. Thank you all in advance for your thoughts. Brian
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#2 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Long Island, NY
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An oil level at the full mark of the dip stick will result in extraordinary oil leakage. Typically, the oil finds its own level midway between the "F" and"L" marks. Also, the dipstick does not indicate oil in the dip tray of the oil pan, so when changing the oil, only put in 4 quarts.
0.004" clearance is a bit excessive for newly babbitted bearings, but not enough to cause extraordinary oil leakage. Also, the fore-aft play of the crankshaft is important and should not exceed 0.006" on a fresh engine. Other causes I have found over the years of playing with engines: > Wadding the re-builder uses to keep babbitt from running out during the pour is left in the bearing drain; > Rear main drain tube screwed too far into the bearing such that it blocks oil flow; > Wrong diameter drain tube. It should be 3/8"; > Lack of sealant around the bearing bolts; > Wrong type of shims; > Cracked babbitt; > Improper oil pan gasket fit & cork seal fit at the rear main bearing; > Loose oil pan bolts; > Clogged crankcase breather. Another source of oil leakage is the transmission. Excessive oil and unsealed front bearing will contribute to the puddle.
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#3 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Largo Florida
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Yep, oil level is important. Too much will cause a leak. Some engines have the wrong or mismarked dipstick.
.004" is a lot, especially on a new engine. I believe this can be a cause of leakage. I set the rear mains at no more than .0015". |
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#4 |
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Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Santa Ana, Cal 92704
Posts: 106
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This is a new rebuilt engine. First time putting oil in it. I put one quart of oil down the distributor hole and four quarts in the oil fill tube.
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#5 |
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: San Jose California
Posts: 157
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I would contact the rebuilder.
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#6 |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
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#7 |
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Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Santa Ana, Cal 92704
Posts: 106
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Oil filler pipe is clear. Cap is clear as well. Yes, Bob has a good reply. Thank you Bob
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#8 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
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Agree .004 is too much clearance. I run between .0015 and ,002. You might be able to fix it be removing shims and measuring. Check end play while you are at it. .008 is max per ford specs. Should be around .004 on a new engine.
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#9 |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Posts: 6,652
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In addition the what Bob Bidonde listed it could be leaking out the back of the camshaft if the flywheel housing gasket is leaking or installed incorrectly.
Last edited by Y-Blockhead; 03-02-2022 at 06:49 PM. |
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#10 |
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Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Mt. Pleasant, SC
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I agree with post #9…missing or. Gasket installed backwards will cause exactly what you describe. Don’t ask me how I know……
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#11 |
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Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: alberta canada
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make sure the crankcase is vented properly. and not building pressure. oil filler cap.
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old ugly my mom would have told me. "these things are here to test us" |
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#12 |
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Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: alberta canada
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ditto on #9
and never shim that area with metal shims (which is done for bellhousing runout) if it needs a shim to make the bell housing true i cut another gasket for there, shorter and back up the existing gasket, this acts like a shim. a metal shim there will create a leak.
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old ugly my mom would have told me. "these things are here to test us" |
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#13 |
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Erie Pa
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.004 does seem like too much clearance, in a new engine, I would contact the rebuilder before doing too much and see what they say.
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#14 |
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Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Santa Ana, Cal 92704
Posts: 106
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So, I got under the car tonight and removed the rear main cap. Sure enough I screwed that return tube all the way down. Which caused it to block the oil passage about 3/16th. My next issue is that cap does not have very good threads for that tube. Should I use Loc-tite? Or J-B Weld? Or???
Tomorrow night I'll plastic gage that bearing and adjust shims as needed. I should do them all, I guess. Anyway, it looks like I caused my own problem. Thank you to all for your thoughts. I also heard that you can't get the rear main cap off if you have a counterweighted crankshaft. I got mine off without too much trouble. |
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#15 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: on the Littlefield
Posts: 6,556
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Since you have the cap off take a picture of the bearing surface, do the oil wells go all the way to the ends?
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#16 |
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Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: alberta canada
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i was looking something else up and found this.
i didn't know why the cover on my multi disc bell housing didn't have louvers. oil leaks were an issue rite from the start.
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old ugly my mom would have told me. "these things are here to test us" |
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