Water Pump Leak

[WallaceHardware]

So, me being 17 and not the sharpest bowling ball, I ordered the wrong rebuild kit when I did my carb not knowing that there were different versions, so I don't want to make the same mistake again. I have a leak at the rearward most seal on my water pump and I want to know if there are any different versions of water pumps before I go ahead and order a seal

[Mike Peters]

You might get lucky on this one. IF you have an original water pump with rope packing, then you can tighten the packing nut at the rear of the pump where it is now leaking until the leak stops. Use the biggest screwdriver you have, or a packing nut wrench. Tighten clockwise.
If you have the modern leakless pump, Then others may have solutions. Good luck and welcome to Ford barn!

[WallaceHardware]

Thank you, how do I tell the difference?

[Ruth]

Originally Posted by Mike Peters

You might get lucky on this one. IF you have an original water pump with rope packing, then you can tighten the packing nut at the rear of the pump where it is now leaking until the leak stops. Use the biggest screwdriver you have, or a packing nut wrench. Tighten clockwise.
If you have the modern leakless pump, Then others may have solutions. Good luck and welcome to Ford barn!

What Mike Peters said. Ensure you don't overthighten the packing nut. Just until it stops leaking.

[Gary WA]

Originally Posted by WallaceHardware

So, me being 17 and not the sharpest bowling ball, I ordered the wrong rebuild kit when I did my carb not knowing that there were different versions, so I don't want to make the same mistake again. I have a leak at the rearward most seal on my water pump and I want to know if there are any different versions of water pumps before I go ahead and order a seal

What year Model A do you have?

[old ugly]

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Originally Posted by WallaceHardware

Thank you, how do I tell the difference?

put a picture of you pump on here.

just in case you have an old jobber pump and not an original.

[katy]

If/when tightening the packing nut, it's best to do it w/the engine running.

[WallaceHardware]

1929, but I can tell you mine had a 4 blade fan not a 2 blade

[WallaceHardware]

Ok, it is still on the truck, I will not be able to remove it until wed at the latest

[Kurt in NJ]

Back off the packing nut, go to plumbing department and get some valve packing string, wrap it around and put nut back on after greasing the bushing and seeing grease coming out
It can be done on the car.

[old ugly]

Originally Posted by Kurt in NJ

Back off the packing nut, go to plumbing department and get some valve packing string, wrap it around and put nut back on after greasing the bushing and seeing grease coming out
It can be done on the car.

i think we need to know if we are dealing with a original style water pump.
i had one that had no packing nut. it was sealed from the inside.

we sort of need to see what he has.

[Synchro909]

Old Ugly is correct. There is no point giving advice if he has a different (modified) pump.
If it is an original style pump, I'd try adjusting it as described after packing the graphite impregnated cord with grease. Do it up just far enough that the leak stops. Alternatively, take the rope out and replace it with a couple of graphite washers https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...9269&cat=41793
I pack those with grease before assembly too, then do them up the same as for the rope.

[J Franklin]

Originally Posted by Kurt in NJ

Back off the packing nut, go to plumbing department and get some valve packing string, wrap it around and put nut back on after greasing the bushing and seeing grease coming out
It can be done on the car.

Ford said not to use this type of material for the water pump. you can get the correct packing from the model A part suppliers. Buy a few sets, they're inexpensive. The string packing is not made for continuous rotation but for faucets.

[nkaminar]

Tightening the packing nut is a maintenance thing. It is done while the engine is running and as other have said, just enough to stop the drip. Be careful not to get any body parts in the fan or fan belt while the engine is running. You only need to replace the packing if the packing has worn out to the point where tightening the nut does no good. The packing nut has to be tightened on a regular basis. That is why most people go to the dripless waterpumps which have modern seals in them. You do not have to remove the old packing to add more. Use the packing available from the suppliers.

[Conaway2]

A pic of your water pump would be very helpful.

I started using the leakless rebuild kits about 30 years ago - they have a modern bushing with o-ring seal and stainless steel shaft. One of my rebuilt water pumps has worked 30 years with no issues. 28-29 cars use a brass packing nut, and 30-31 cars use a zinc plated packing nut. Graphite packing can be added to these kits, but isn’t really needed. Brattons and other vendors carry the rebuild kits.

https://www.brattons.com/28-29-DELUX...uctinfo/12730/

I have also replaced older steel blade fans with a new cast aluminum 2-bladed fan. It looks original, but will not break as original steel blade fans almost always do. Original fans had 2 blades; replacements often had 4 blades. Bles on both will fatigue, crack and break off, causing significant damage to radiators and hoods.

Good luck whatever you decide to do - Jim

[ronn]

depending how bad its leaking, I would run it for a bit, do as the first fella says and see if it doesnt seal itself. Many water pumps drip from non use.

[WallaceHardware]

what is a "big leak" to you