Push button starter

[Lkitchens]

I'm having trouble with the 3-post solenoid on my 1930 coupe. I can push the button on the bottom of the solenoid and start the car. But when i use the push button I've installed in the cab, the solenoid makes a rapid clicking sound and doesn't supply full power to the starter.

I've tried 3 different solenoids. The solenoid is mounted to the car body. I've tried to jump a wire from the solenoid bracket back to the ground on the battery to make sure i had a good ground. I'm using 10ga wire from the battery post on the solenoid to the push button and back to the small terminal on the solenoid. i've also used smaller gauge wire, same result. I have a 6 volt positive ground system. The solenoids are rated for 6 volt, at least one purchased directly from Snyder's.

Any suggestions?

[GRutter]

Sounds like a weak battery or poor ground connections. When the starter engages, the voltage drops, and the solenoid no longer has enough voltage to stay engaged. As soon as the solenoid disengages the starter, the voltage increases enough for the solenoid to pick up again... hence the rapid clicking sound.
BTW, a modern car with a weak battery will do the same thing.

[Lkitchens]

I've installed a new 6V RedTop Optima Battery with the same results.

[jrelliott]

Check both the hot wire from the battery and the ground connection that picks the sloenoid via the starter button. Need a good source to ground to pick the solenoid.

[katy]

That solenoid requires a + (ground) to the 3rd terminal to activate it.

[GeneBob]

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Is the solenoid for 12V and 6V just is not holding it engaged once the starter draws current?

[Lkitchens]

Sam, can you expand on your answer… I’m running from the negative battery terminal to to the solenoid, then out of the other side of the solenoid to the starter. The small post is being fed from the push button that is receiving power from the negative post. Are you saying I should feed the small terminal from the positive/ground post?

[katy]

Originally Posted by Lkitchens

Sam, can you expand on your answer… I’m running from the negative battery terminal to to the solenoid, then out of the other side of the solenoid to the starter. The small post is being fed from the push button that is receiving power from the negative post. Are you saying I should feed the small terminal from the positive/ground post?

Yes, that is if it's an original style Ford 6 volt solenoid.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Lkitchens

Sam, can you expand on your answer… I’m running from the negative battery terminal to to the solenoid, then out of the other side of the solenoid to the starter. The small post is being fed from the push button that is receiving power from the negative post. Are you saying I should feed the small terminal from the positive/ground post?

As a well-known official once recently said.....WHOA, WHOA, WHOA. WHOA. WHOA! WHOA! WHOA! WHOA. WHOA! You guys are makin' my head hurt! These original-type old Ford solenoids of the '30s & '40s with two large and one small terminal are just too simple to mess-up.

In the first place, it is imperative to have the NEG BATT cable and the STARTER cables going to the correct BIG lug on solenoid, as it makes a difference. Many of the solenoids will have that big terminal marked "BAT" or "BATT". On a car that is still 6v and POS GND, the NEG BATTERY post will be landed on that big copper post marked to represent "BATT". On that same post, you will land any smaller power wires like LIGHTS, HORN, etc.

The BIG copper lug found on the opposite side of solenoid will have ONLY one big cable going to the starter motor.

The third SMALL post on solenoid will have only ONE small wire going directly to the single-pole START button on the instrument panel. All the START button does is complete a circuit to GROUND when pushed. That energizes the COIL portion of the solenoid, creating a magnetic field inside the solenoid causing the plunger to move toward the two big posts internally, in effect bridging the two BIG contacts electrically, sending full current to the starter motor.

One important aspect of these circuits to guarantee successful operation is the need to make sure that the START button IS fully grounded to the dash structure, with a foolproof path back to chassis GROUND. If the button itself is poorly grounded to the dash structure, the function may be intermittent or non-functional at all. On several occasions, I have soldered a ground wire to the starter button fixture, and run the end to a known, good ground. Follow the simple drawing below and you can't go wrong! #2 represents the START button. #1 represents the STARTER. DD







.

[Lkitchens]

Thank you for the detailed response… but I’m not seeing the drawing

[Lkitchens]

Nevermind, it just showed up

[Lkitchens]

Fixed it!

Swapped the main terminals and ran the non-solenoid wire coming from the switch to a good ground.

Thank you all!