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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: NC Mountains
Posts: 740
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Watched a Paul Shinn video about brakes and the fellow he had doing the brakes said he didn't like the original rear hub puller and used a "knock off" tool instead. What's your thought on this and where do you purchase the tool he uses?
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#2 |
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,251
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IMHO, the knock off tool may work on a hub that isn't on too tight, but it might lead to damaging the threaded end of the axle if you pound too much. I've used the half round pullers, and they're ok, but if you have a really stubborn hub, the right tool for the job is the KRW puller that goes all around the hub.
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#3 |
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: NC Mountains
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Thanks for reply,,, he said that the original type could mushroom the axle end on one that was really tight. I've never removed a rear (yet) but am about to.
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#4 |
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Red Deer, Alberta
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[QUOTE=History;2081152]What's your thought on this and where do you purchase the tool he uses? [QUOTE]
When using the "knock off" tool one should leave the selected wheel on the ground and jack up the opposite side. Methinks that the parts vendors sell the "knock off" tool.
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#5 |
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
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I have the tool made by Mitchell. It works great, and on both types of hubs.
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#6 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
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Quote:
You can get them direct from Mitchell or from Bratton's. https://mitchelloverdrives.com/mitchell-hub-puller/ https://www.brattons.com/UNIVERSAL-R...ductinfo/6141/ |
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#7 |
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Join Date: May 2020
Location: Corning NY
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I used the knock off puller without incident. I think because of the mechanical advantage of this type of puller, one good blow with a carpenter hammer released the hub from the taper. When reassembling, do not use grease or oil on the taper fit
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#8 |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
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I have had good luck with the Universal Hub Puller, see https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...6169&cat=41753. I have tried the others without good success. I bought some nuts that fit the shaft from McMaster Carr and thread them on to be flush with the end of the shaft before using the puller.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
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#9 |
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Santa Maria, CA
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The Snyders Universal Hub Puller...highly recommend!
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#10 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Maryville, TN
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My favorite rear hub removal tool is made by Vintage Precision in Benicia California. 800-486-0021. They also make thermostat housings.
Vic |
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#11 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
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#12 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Stuart Florida
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KRW. Works great. Tough as nails for a stubborn drum. I bought two years 40 years ago. One still in the box.
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#13 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Long Island, NY
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The knock-off tool may Brinnel (flat spot) the ball bearings in the differential.
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#14 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
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The Reproduction KR Wilson tool is a good one but is expensive by comparison to the bolt together set up. Both will get the job done.
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#15 |
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This type works good on both types of hubs:
An old time trick was to remove the cotter pin, loosen the axle nut about 1/2 a turn or so, reinstall the cotter pin and drive around the block.
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#16 |
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There are ball bearings in the differential? I alway thought they were tapered roller bearings.
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#17 |
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Join Date: Mar 2020
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You are correct. When you click the instructions on the Snyder's site it opens an instruction sheet telling you it's a Mitchell. Nice stuff Mitchell makes!
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#18 | |
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 9,192
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![]() Quote:
This Mitchell Manufacturing product is designed to pull rear brake hubs on Ford vehicles from 1928 to 1948.
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#19 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
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There can be problems with the bolt to the lug nut types if the taper is really tight or corroded together. The hub and drum aren't very thick like a later model vehicles after 1948 The hub & drum can be damaged or warped. Pulling from the hub nose is a safer bet. Wide 5 drums from 1936 though 39 would not work all that well either.
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