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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: San Bernardino
Posts: 50
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anyone have a recommendation on the hammer size for using the old ford stamps on hot rolled steel. or any other tips?
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: San Bernardino
Posts: 50
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It is the 1934 commercial variety steel
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: East Hartford, Ct
Posts: 5,898
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Suggest you obtain some steel sheet of the same thickness to practice on.
And it would help to have a substantial steel backup in the location where installing.
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Shelton, WA
Posts: 3,971
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When I use mine I clamp a thick piece of metal to act as a straight edge and rest the flat of the stamp shaft against it to make all the stampings in a straight line and not tilted. A heavy piece underneath if possible to back up the top rail of the frame and act like an anvil is a good idea too. I also using a silver sharpie, wrote "TOP" on the flat part of the stamp shank to avoid making a mistake and stamping something upside down or sideways. As for the hammer, I just use a medium sized ball peen. As suggested, practice on a scrap.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,605
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I like this one:
You only hit it one time. Practice first to get the feel and impact correct. I don't like ball pein style as the head is not flat. It has a slight crown. Layout in advance the punches you plan to use AND in the numbering sequence you require to help avoid mistakes. First, stamp the entire number on scrap metal to learn about spacing location and metal deformation. Place used numbers aside, away from the ones you are using. I know this all sounds a bit "OFF" but dumb mistakes can happen. https://www.zoro.com/jackson-cross-p...iABEgJ6c_D_BwE Last edited by 19Fordy; 05-29-2020 at 11:35 AM. |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,605
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#7 |
BANNED
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Long Island,NY
Posts: 1,568
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One think to remember is that there is no "from the factory" depth. I have seen stamped numbers that were very deep and easily readable to numbers that were almost unreadable. I guess if the guy doing the stamping was having a bad day, the frame is what he took it out on.
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Columbus, IN
Posts: 1,592
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Looks like Henry used about an 8 oz. ball peen hammer on the first V-8. He was stamping on cast iron in this photo.
I haven't seen a straight, evenly spaced serial number on an early V-8 Ford, other than the I8. |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Charlotte NC KiWi-L100 available here
Posts: 3,264
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There is a nice plastic tool for holding stamps on the auction site
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,605
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I suppose if the numbers were too straight it would raise questions.
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: now Kuna, Idaho
Posts: 3,818
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If you use a straight edge or a plastic holder, you are "over restoring". Do it freehand, like the factory! Plus, you've got about 10 seconds to get it done.
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: MN
Posts: 7,063
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First I'll ask why are you stamping? They say bigger then a framing hammer and less then a sledge.
. Last edited by Tinker; 05-29-2020 at 10:03 PM. |
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