1953 Ford Sunliner cannot start

[1953fords]

Fuel is good...new fuel pump...carb rebuilt...new coil...weak spark from coil wire...all plugs have weak spark. This engine was rebuilt...turns over...timing is correct... What could cause weak spark? Is that the problem? WILL NOT START!

[JSeery]

Is it 6v or 12v? Is it connected correctly for a (+) ground for 6v or (-) ground for 12v? What coil is being used (Ohms)? What is the voltage at the coil with the points closed? And a lot more questions.

The spark should be a bright, crisp blue. A weak looking yellow spark may not provide enough energy to ignite the fuel mixture in the cylinder.

[1953fords]

Spark is not a bright blue spark...Coil is new...6 volt positive ground...6 volt coil is new from Carpenter's...

[1953fords]

Your diagnosis is what I am thinking as well. The spark is weak from the coil. What is wrong if it is a new coil?

[JSeery]

Now you will need to check the Ohms reading of the coil and the voltage to the coil (with the points closed). Is there a ballast resistor inline with the coil? Depending on what Ohm's value the coil is it may or may not need the ballast resistor. A quick test might be to bypass the ballast resistor (if there is one) and see what the spark looks like.

[1953fords]

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There is nothing between the red wire coming from the harness to the coil. There is a condensor in the distributor...

[1953fords]

I am a hobbiest...not a mechanic...so bare with me...I am learning as we go...I never had this problem before...Is there a grounding problem?

[19Fordy]

Check for frayed wires inside the distributor. Sounds simple but have you double checked the firing order? Is the timing and point gap correctly set? Review this thread.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...stions.338763/

[mrtexas]

Timing could be 180 out and wouldn't start. Remove spark plug in #1 and turn over by remote starter switch to just before TDC. Verify on distributor #1 is lining up. Bump the starter to make sure you get spark near TDC.

[petehoovie]

What did you do to the car just prior to this 'problem' happening?....

[1953fords]

Engine was rebuilt...if the distributor is 180 out...should the rotor be pointing towards number 1 on the distributor cap? That's where number one wire is...I have the timing mark on the pointer as described for manual timing...

[Phil Gillespie]

Sounds as described electrical. But also to verify carb has fuel in the body as if fitted without fuel in body plenty of cranking to pull fuel through.
Take air cleaner off and work accelerator to view fuel being admitted from top with air cleaner off. Then the fuel side can be eliminated hopefully.
Phil NZ

[1953fords]

Fuel is good to carb...removed screw from float and has gas...also smelled gas.

[Lanny]

The number 1 cyl on an 8ba is the front cyl on Passenger side, is that
the wire where your rotor is pointing ?




.

[1953fords]

No...the rotor is pointing away from it with the timing mark and pointer at their correct position.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by 1953fords

No...the rotor is pointing away from it with the timing mark and pointer at their correct position.

Can you clarify that, not sure what you are saying. The rotor should be pointing at the #1 cylinder wire position in the distributor when the crank pully is on the timing mark. The firing order on a Ford is 1-2-3-4 on the right (passenger) bank of the engine and 5-6-7-8 on the left (drivers) side. That throws some Chevy guys. Still think we need to verify the coil you are using, it needs to be a ~1.5 ohm coil with no ballast resistor. Need to straighten out the electrical stuff before jumping all over the place with other possible issues.

[1953fords]

The coil is from Dennis Carpenter and is a 6 volt. That's all I know about the coil. I think what you are saying is when I have the timing mark on the crank pully the rotor should be pointing to number 1 cyl which is what is marked on the distributor cap as number 1 and the number one wire going to the number one cylinder. It is not...so it must be 180 wrong???

[JSeery]

Yep, sounds like it. Coil is most likely ok, but doesn't hurt to check. The weak spark is still an issue. So is the (+) post on the coil connected to the distributor and the (-) post connected to the ignition switch? Do you own a voltmeter? That would be helpful.

[Charlie ny]

Not to pile on here but be sure the wires are installed on the distributor cap using the correct rotation. I'm leaning however at the coil, because it is new does not mean it is good. The safest bet to the correct coil is a NAPA ECHLIN IC-7. No resistor needed,
correct OHM's out of the box. On a pos ground car the wire from the distributor is attached to the pos side of the coil, the hot wire is attached to the neg side of the coil.
If perhaps the wiring is in question try attaching a wire directly from the neg terminal of the battery to the neg terminal on the coil. Try that and see if things look better.....just remember to remove the wire once the test is finished.
Charlie ny

[philipswanson]

Sounds like the points and/or condensor is not set up right. Distributor could be timed 180 degrees off. You need to be on the compression stroke to line up #1 properly. Put your finger over the #1 spark plug (front on passenger side)hole and turn the engine over in the proper direction by hand. It should spit just before getting to the timing mark. You see any given plug only fires on every other revolution on a 4 stroke engine. Check point gap and make sure you are running a good condensor. Check battery voltage by load testing. Check all grounds.