The Ford Barn

poolplayer1 · 11-23-2018, 04:08 PM

Hello everyone,hope all of you had a great Thanksgiving Day. This morning I decided to do an oil change on this 302.As I drained the oil,I noticed that the oil was a milky color instead of just plain dirty oil.The engine is not overheating at all but could it still be a blown head gasket causing this milky looking oil? Need some suggestions on this problem. Thanks.

darrell · 11-23-2018, 05:08 PM

winter is coming on.when you have an old engine or to much stop and go this happens.blow by when an engine is cold causes this.

streetdreams · 11-23-2018, 05:26 PM

Check the PCV system or road draft tube for proper operation. The fill cap screen/mesh should be clean also. Finally, make sure the thermostat is operating properly and engine is coming up to operating temperature. Blown head gasket will typically exhibit white exhaust.

5851a · 11-23-2018, 05:37 PM

Try a cooling system pressure test to be sure, it needs to hold. Worked on a car once the customer kept bring back in with antifreeze all over under the hood. Pressure tester said it held good. Older mechanic came and looked at it, put pressure tester on, pumped it up and the said start it and rev it up. Around 4000 rpm we had antifreeze flying everywhere coming from head gasket. Head bolt had stretched and was ready to snap between first thread and shank. Besides head gasket on a 302 coolant runs through intake manifold and timing cover. Try a pressure tester.

poolplayer1 · 11-26-2018, 11:24 AM

Thanks guys. I will check all the things mentioned here. Will let you know what I find out on the problem.

paul2748 · 11-26-2018, 09:00 PM

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Are you losing water and gaining oil? Is so then you have a leak. No white smoke out the tailpipe, then probably not a bad head gasket. Maybe not running the car long enough

poolplayer1 · 12-01-2018, 05:15 PM

Well,I did a coolant pressure test and it held good and no leaks at all. I also did a combustion leak test and the fluid did not change from blue to yellow so it looks like the head gaskets are ok.Temperature is okay at 180 degrees after idling for 20 to 30 minutes.I also did a compression test and all cylinders are between 145 and 150 lbs.
I am going to drive it around town Monday for at least an hour and see how it runs.
If no problems are seen,it should be ok now. I think that the problem is not running it enough to get everything back to normal. Thanks for your help and suggestions.

darrell · 12-01-2018, 07:51 PM

it doesnt hurt anything some old fords i drove had the dipstick froze in in the morning.they went for years.

dmsfrr · 12-01-2018, 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by poolplayer1

. . . I am going to drive it around town Monday for at least an hour and see how it runs.
If no problems are seen,it should be ok now. I think that the problem is not running it enough to get everything back to normal. Thanks for your help and suggestions.

Depending on the temperature and humidity where the car is parked/stored, and like the outside of a glass of your favorite icy cold beverage... the inside of a cold engine can condense moisture which drips to the low points, same as the oil.
Infrequent short trips don't get the oil & engine hot enough to evaporate the water out. Your idea of an hour long drive should be a good one.
.

miker98038 · 12-01-2018, 08:27 PM

Winter of 69 I was out of school for Christmas break. Cold and damp in Seattle as usual. I drove short distances for a week, probably never 5 miles and not above 40mph. I went out and pulled a valve cover to set the valves and it was full of dirty yellow foam. When I wiped it out it was obviously mostly water. I freaked out, but my Dad came home and said “go drive it about 30 miles on the freeway”. Sure enough 20 minutes across town and a 30 mile dash at 70 (no traffic in those days) when the car cooled off it was clean as usual. I wouldn’t believe it if I hadn’t seen it.

KULTULZ · 12-02-2018, 04:22 AM

Is the PVC SYSTEM functional on the engine? Do you know about what year the 302 is?

poolplayer1 · 12-02-2018, 04:49 PM

Thanks to all for your help. The pcv is working ok.I have a new pcv valve and I have full vacuum on it.With the engine running,I put my finger at the end of the valve and It has good suction. I will find out tomorrow how well it runs when I go for the 1 hour run.

KULTULZ · 12-02-2018, 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by poolplayer1

The pcv is working ok.I have a new pcv valve and I have full vacuum on it.With the engine running,I put my finger at the end of the valve and It has good suction.

OK...

Not trying to correct you or anything of that ilk ...

The best way to determine PCV SYSTEM operation/integrity (IMO) is to put a vacuum gauge on your dipstick tube and see if there is any vacuum (with engine running - beat you to it oldmics

).

The air intake may be blocked, the engine has a large oil leak(s) drawing outside air, etc.

Please, no food fights. I just got my laundry bill from the last go-around ...

Ford blue blood · 12-03-2018, 08:29 AM

KULTULZ is correct. 302s that have the PCV located in the rear portion of the intake manifold are notorious for "gunking" up and not pulling fumes and moisture out of the crank case. If it is in the valve cover there should be a "cage" with "steal wool" in it. Make sure it is clean as it will clog up over the years especially if you don't heat soak the engine on a regular basis.

poolplayer1 · 12-06-2018, 03:03 PM

Ok guys.I took my wagon out for a drive and I drove for about 50 miles and made it back home ok with no problems at all.Engine did not overheat,no white smoke at all eighter. After I got home,I checked the oil and it was back to normal,not milky anymore. It must of been moisture like some of you guys said. It ran really nice.Almost done with it.I had ordered a speedo drive gear and that's what I'm going to replace next to see if I can get the speedometer to work.
Thanks to all for your help.

runmikeyrun · 12-07-2018, 01:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

OK...

Not trying to correct you or anything of that ilk ...

The best way to determine PCV SYSTEM operation/integrity (IMO) is to put a vacuum gauge on your dipstick tube and see if there is any vacuum (with engine running - beat you to it oldmics

).

The air intake may be blocked, the engine has a large oil leak(s) drawing outside air, etc.

Please, no food fights. I just got my laundry bill from the last go-around ...

Quick question- how much vacuum should I have from the dipstick? I know it varies with throttle position. Or is it more important to just see any vacuum reading to show it’s pulling?

I will be adding a PCV valve to my Y block and would be a great idea to check the system this way.

Thanks,
Mike

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

KULTULZ · 12-07-2018, 03:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by runmikeyrun

Quick question- how much vacuum should I have from the dipstick? I know it varies with throttle position. Or is it more important to just see any vacuum reading to show it’s pulling?

I will be adding a PCV valve to my Y block and would be a great idea to check the system this way.

Measure the amount of vacuum in the crankcase.

vacuum gauge With the engine at normal operating temperature, block off the PCV breather tube or vent to the engine (usually the hose that runs from the air cleaner housing to the valve cover on the engine). Pull out the dipstick and connect a vacuum-pressure gauge to the dipstick tube. A typical PCV system should be pulling about 1 to 3 inches of vacuum in the crankcase at idle. If you see a significantly higher vacuum reading, the intake manifold gasket is probably leaking and pulling vacuum on the crankcase (replace the leaky intake manifold gasket). If you see no vacuum, or find a buildup of pressure in the crankcase, the PCV system is plugged. Or it may not be pulling enough air through the crankcase to get rid of the blowby vapors.
NOTE: If the engine has a leaky oil pan, valve cover or intake manifold gasket leak, or leaky crankshaft seals, it will not be able to develop much vacuum in the crankcase because it is pulling in outside air (which is also unfiltered and can further contaminate the oil).

To find a crankcase air leak, you can lightly pressurize (no more than 1 to 3 psi) the crankcase with shop air via the dipstick tube or oil filler cap or breather after blocking all the other vents. Do not use any more air pressure than this or you may create leaks where there were no leaks before. Then use a spray bottle to squirt soapy water around the gasket seams and seals. If you see bubbles, you have found an air leak (replace the gasket or seal as needed).
A smoke machine also works great for finding crankcase leaks as well as vacuum leaks. A smoke machine generates a smoke-like vapor by heating mineral oil. The mist can then fed into the intake manifold to check for intake manifold vacuum leaks, or into the crankcase to check for internal engine air leaks. Any leaks will allow the smoke to escape and you will see the smoke on the outside of the engine.

SOURCE- https://dannysengineportal.com/pcv-p...ion-valve-faq/

Hot Rod Reverend · 12-07-2018, 08:21 AM

@Kultlulz - will that "dipstick check" method work on a y block that has the original oil filler cap? Seems like in the original design that location is where the intake of air to go through the crankcase was placed...

KULTULZ · 12-07-2018, 09:55 AM

Yes, either/both OPEN or CLOSED SYSTEM.

Quote:

Open PCV Systems

The open system draws fresh air though a vented oil filler cap, usually chrome plated in restored cars. This works fine as long as the vapor volume is minimal and when the engine is running. However, when the crankcase vapor becomes excessive — or when the engine is shut off — it is forced back through the vented oil filler cap and into the open atmosphere. The open PCV system, though successful at removing contaminated vapors from the crankcase, is not completely effective as a pollution control device.

Closed PCV Systems

The closed PCV system draws fresh air from the air filter housing. The oil filler cap in this system is NOT vented. Consequently, excess vapor will be carried back to the air filter housing and from there into the intake manifold. The closed system prevents vapor, whether normal or excessive, from reaching the open atmosphere. The closed system is very effective as an air pollution control device.

SOURCE - http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/239.cfm

poolplayer1 · 12-07-2018, 11:03 AM

Thanks for the great info on the pcv system Kultulz.I followed the link you put here and read the article.Very informative and educational.Will keep it handy for future use. I am going to double check the pcv in my 55 to make sure its working properly.I noticed where it mentioned that if the pcv system is not working properly,the oil can be contaminated,causing internal problems in the engine.

11-23-2018, 04:08 PM	#1
poolplayer1 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Posts: 408	1955 ford with a 302 engine/oil question Hello everyone,hope all of you had a great Thanksgiving Day. This morning I decided to do an oil change on this 302.As I drained the oil,I noticed that the oil was a milky color instead of just plain dirty oil.The engine is not overheating at all but could it still be a blown head gasket causing this milky looking oil? Need some suggestions on this problem. Thanks.

11-23-2018, 05:08 PM	#2
darrell Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: p.e.i. Posts: 1,063	Re: 1955 ford with a 302 engine/oil question winter is coming on.when you have an old engine or to much stop and go this happens.blow by when an engine is cold causes this.

11-23-2018, 05:26 PM	#3
streetdreams Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Howell, Michigan, USA, The Peoples Slightly Overspent Demodependancy of Michigan Posts: 637	Re: 1955 ford with a 302 engine/oil question Check the PCV system or road draft tube for proper operation. The fill cap screen/mesh should be clean also. Finally, make sure the thermostat is operating properly and engine is coming up to operating temperature. Blown head gasket will typically exhibit white exhaust.

11-23-2018, 05:37 PM	#4
5851a Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: NE Iowa Posts: 1,767	Re: 1955 ford with a 302 engine/oil question Try a cooling system pressure test to be sure, it needs to hold. Worked on a car once the customer kept bring back in with antifreeze all over under the hood. Pressure tester said it held good. Older mechanic came and looked at it, put pressure tester on, pumped it up and the said start it and rev it up. Around 4000 rpm we had antifreeze flying everywhere coming from head gasket. Head bolt had stretched and was ready to snap between first thread and shank. Besides head gasket on a 302 coolant runs through intake manifold and timing cover. Try a pressure tester.

11-26-2018, 11:24 AM	#5
poolplayer1 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Posts: 408	Re: 1955 ford with a 302 engine/oil question Thanks guys. I will check all the things mentioned here. Will let you know what I find out on the problem.

11-26-2018, 09:00 PM	#6
paul2748 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Midland Park, NJ Posts: 4,290	Re: 1955 ford with a 302 engine/oil question Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Are you losing water and gaining oil? Is so then you have a leak. No white smoke out the tailpipe, then probably not a bad head gasket. Maybe not running the car long enough __________________ 48 Ford Conv 56 Tbird 54 Ford Victoria

12-01-2018, 05:15 PM	#7
poolplayer1 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Posts: 408	Re: 1955 ford with a 302 engine/oil question Well,I did a coolant pressure test and it held good and no leaks at all. I also did a combustion leak test and the fluid did not change from blue to yellow so it looks like the head gaskets are ok.Temperature is okay at 180 degrees after idling for 20 to 30 minutes.I also did a compression test and all cylinders are between 145 and 150 lbs. I am going to drive it around town Monday for at least an hour and see how it runs. If no problems are seen,it should be ok now. I think that the problem is not running it enough to get everything back to normal. Thanks for your help and suggestions.

12-01-2018, 07:51 PM	#8
darrell Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: p.e.i. Posts: 1,063	Re: 1955 ford with a 302 engine/oil question it doesnt hurt anything some old fords i drove had the dipstick froze in in the morning.they went for years.

12-01-2018, 08:27 PM	#10
miker98038 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Kent, WA. Tucson, AZ Posts: 1,625	Re: 1955 ford with a 302 engine/oil question Winter of 69 I was out of school for Christmas break. Cold and damp in Seattle as usual. I drove short distances for a week, probably never 5 miles and not above 40mph. I went out and pulled a valve cover to set the valves and it was full of dirty yellow foam. When I wiped it out it was obviously mostly water. I freaked out, but my Dad came home and said “go drive it about 30 miles on the freeway”. Sure enough 20 minutes across town and a 30 mile dash at 70 (no traffic in those days) when the car cooled off it was clean as usual. I wouldn’t believe it if I hadn’t seen it.

12-02-2018, 04:22 AM	#11
KULTULZ Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: IN A GALAXIE FAR, FAR AWAY Posts: 7,386	Re: 1955 ford with a 302 engine/oil question Is the PVC SYSTEM functional on the engine? Do you know about what year the 302 is? __________________ ***** "Last Sunday, I caught him makin' eyes at Idell Bushey durin' preachin'. And I know what they do up there in the hills when they say they're possum huntin'. They're just sittin' around the campfire, drinkin' hard cider, hittin' each other on the shoulder and hollerin' 'flinch!'." ― Charlene Darling (Daughter of Briscoe Darling)

12-02-2018, 04:49 PM	#12
poolplayer1 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Posts: 408	Re: 1955 ford with a 302 engine/oil question Thanks to all for your help. The pcv is working ok.I have a new pcv valve and I have full vacuum on it.With the engine running,I put my finger at the end of the valve and It has good suction. I will find out tomorrow how well it runs when I go for the 1 hour run.

12-03-2018, 08:29 AM	#14
Ford blue blood Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Birmingham, AL Posts: 883	Re: 1955 ford with a 302 engine/oil question KULTULZ is correct. 302s that have the PCV located in the rear portion of the intake manifold are notorious for "gunking" up and not pulling fumes and moisture out of the crank case. If it is in the valve cover there should be a "cage" with "steal wool" in it. Make sure it is clean as it will clog up over the years especially if you don't heat soak the engine on a regular basis. __________________ Bill, certified Ford nut. 2024 F-150 2018 Lincoln MKZ 2016 Focus 1961 Comet S-22 1956 Ford Crown Victoria 36 Chevy, 351C/FMX, 8", Mustang II

12-06-2018, 03:03 PM	#15
poolplayer1 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Posts: 408	Re: 1955 ford with a 302 engine/oil question Ok guys.I took my wagon out for a drive and I drove for about 50 miles and made it back home ok with no problems at all.Engine did not overheat,no white smoke at all eighter. After I got home,I checked the oil and it was back to normal,not milky anymore. It must of been moisture like some of you guys said. It ran really nice.Almost done with it.I had ordered a speedo drive gear and that's what I'm going to replace next to see if I can get the speedometer to work. Thanks to all for your help.

12-07-2018, 08:21 AM	#18
Hot Rod Reverend Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lancaster, CA Posts: 947	Re: 1955 ford with a 302 engine/oil question @Kultlulz - will that "dipstick check" method work on a y block that has the original oil filler cap? Seems like in the original design that location is where the intake of air to go through the crankcase was placed... __________________ Lancaster, California Visit hotrodreverend.com to view hundreds of pictures and videos of the build of the 1955 Ford Club Sedan!

12-07-2018, 11:03 AM	#20
poolplayer1 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Posts: 408	Re: 1955 ford with a 302 engine/oil question Thanks for the great info on the pcv system Kultulz.I followed the link you put here and read the article.Very informative and educational.Will keep it handy for future use. I am going to double check the pcv in my 55 to make sure its working properly.I noticed where it mentioned that if the pcv system is not working properly,the oil can be contaminated,causing internal problems in the engine.