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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Nelson. New Zealand
Posts: 2,026
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fresno, Ca.
Posts: 3,636
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QC,
Have you tried backing the timing up some? Should start over but, here we go. 1. what kind of dist.? 2. are you timing with a light?...how much? 3. compression ratio...7 to 1..? 4. what are the figures on the cam? Dudley |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 351
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What do you mean exactly by noisy?
How many degrees advance on the timing? |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: now Kuna, Idaho
Posts: 3,818
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Is the compression even on all cylinders? Have you cc'd the combustion chambers to see if they're equal? How does it feel when you rev it up in neutral? Piston and bearing clearances double-checked? Could the distributor shaft or lobes be worn so that the timing is way off between each cylinder? Maybe try that hill again, leaving it in gear and shutting off the ignition so that the engine is turning at road speed but not firing. This will distinguish between mechanical imbalance and an ignition/combustion roughness.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 351
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 6,370
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 837
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Is the engine noisy when the car is parked and running at the threshold (noisy) rpm? Was the flywheel checked for wobble? That can be done through the inspection cover in the bell housing. What can't be checked, without engine removal, is the flywheel housing run out. If the answer to my first question is yes, then start the engine out of the car before installing it next time.
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: PASADENA, CA
Posts: 1,931
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It seems you have tried all the obvious stuff.
I will throw out some other stuff for your consideration. Does the engine get noisey and run rough as you get up in RPM in ALL GEARS? I am thinking about U Joint or front Drive Shaft Bearing. Years ago, I ran across a simular situation to yours and found the Drive Shaft front bearing surface was badly worn. The engine was not so bad in the lower gears but in high, at road speed there was vibration and noise, especially when the engine was under load. I thought all the time it was engine but in this case it turned out to be Drive Shaft. Coasting down a hill in netural may not detect this as the U Joint and drive shaft are not loaded. Just an Idea, Chris |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Windy City
Posts: 2,919
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A sour dizzy can ruin your whole day. Have access to a distributor machine and an oscilloscope? A four banger should have the distributor fire every 90 degrees, 90-90-90-90. The last old used model a dizzy I played with showed 93-87-89-91 on a Sun machine with a scope. That'll make it run lumpy.
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Nelson. New Zealand
Posts: 2,026
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Thanks for all sugestions, Stock dissy, Tried all of above, with 40 plus years of A,s from stock to hot . ( who else pulls 5800 rev in a flathead & it holds together)have some knowledge , (can,t spell) but know when an engine is off re spark, Best decription is it harsh not smooth, over 45mph , yes all balanced & had checked twice, Wounder if 65thou cold enough piston to head clearance is enough, how about pistons touching head gasket, its 100 over, valves touching head . ??? the latter is the next check, we have over 1000 miles on it so all rest checks out. I will advise when we sort it. Don,t you just love these old engines??keeps me er young?
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Nelson. New Zealand
Posts: 2,026
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Forgot to mention all was fine on the original engine just that that one was down on power & had this NEW rebuilt one sitting there. comp even on each pot at 120lb,s,
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 351
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The reason I asked you what you meant by noisy is I didn't know if you meant detonation (spark knock), or metal hitting metal "clang-clang-clang" or what.
If pistons or valves are hitting there should be some visible signs. On an engine with steel rods, tight bearings and pistons and modest RPM, .035" quench is the minimum practical to run without engine damage. Unfortunately, the operating quench height varies in an engine as RPM and temperatures change. So on an engine with aluminum rods, loose pistons and over 6000 RPM, a static clearance of as much as .055" could be required which of course does not apply to your Model A. Last edited by Larry Brumfield; 12-14-2010 at 11:54 PM. |
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Nelson. New Zealand
Posts: 2,026
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Larry thanks, Im going to pull the head & inspect , I can make it pink with lots of advance, but understand hi comp needs less. This motor is not running over normal revs, there is no metalic noise , Harsh is the only way to describe, , More as it happens, Thanks.
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: on the Littlefield
Posts: 6,555
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Having loose motor mount bolts will make for "harsh", also binding in the front mount.
Have you looked at the mount to frame pads --perhaps there is internal metal to metal contact --a bolt not surrounded by rubber. |
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 650
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Is this your only engine with an aluminum head? Aluminum has inherently less vibration damping than cast iron, so you would expect the engine to be noisier.
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 351
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#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: new britain,ct 06052
Posts: 9,428
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Front crank pulley loose? Bad alt/gen brgs? No noise in neutral/coasting, possible tranny shaft/pilot brg alignment, u-joint? Loose motor mounts, cracked rear mounts? Just tossing these out for thought. Have you tried running engine on a test stand, out of car, if one is available? Good luck, let us know if you find problem, please.
Paul in CT |
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#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 397
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I have had NO problems with my repop Al Winfield head! See the results!
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#19 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Nelson. New Zealand
Posts: 2,026
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Thanks for more suggestions, Nos gears in tranny, float a motors , which im going to inspect, Thing is no problem with orig engine , all happened when fitted the rebuilt engine so one would expect it to be the engine , yes flywheel housing all set up with dial guage, Head coming off today as last resort. Fuel just hit $2.02 per litre here ??? might need to convert to electric , Thanks all. there will be more.
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#20 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: South California
Posts: 6,190
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![]() Quote:
"who else pulls 5800/holds together"...any of the fast boys ![]() You need a BIGGER wallet.... and an OHV setup ![]() |
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