|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
![]() |
#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 11,638
|
![]()
I just came into possession of an aluminum Sharp 4 BBL manifold for an 8BA. Although it is a solid piece, with no chips, cracks, or bad bolt holes, it must have been stored in less than ideal conditions for a long time, because the finish is quite corroded. A stock 8BA oil fill tube is installed, and it must have been there a long time as well, as it has substantial surface rust There is a lot of corrosion where the oil fill tube fits in the manifold. I have soaked it in PB Blaster for two days, and try as I might, I can't get it out. I have removed these tubes from several manifolds before and have never has one as stuck as this one. Because of the way the casting was made, you can't get in from the bottom and use a punch like I have done in the past. I think it is time for a little heat. It would seem that some heat applied to the manifold might be the best way to go, because I think aluminum expands more than steel. Or maybe I should heat the steel tube?
Does anyone have any insight on how to proceed with this? |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: East Shore of LAKE HOUSTON
Posts: 11,184
|
![]()
Have you tried tapping it out from the bottom side with an appropriate tapping-out tool? DD
|
![]() |
![]() |
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 11,638
|
![]()
The computer somehow posted the thread when I had it only half done for some reason. When I finally finished entering it, I stated that the design of the manifold precludes this, which has always worked for me in the past.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: East Shore of LAKE HOUSTON
Posts: 11,184
|
![]()
It might be time to just go ahead straight to a pipe wrench. DD
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mt. Holly,NJ
Posts: 1,822
|
![]()
Aluminum melts at a low temp. Tap the fill tube on the the sides near the top and give it a rocking, pulling motion by hand. Try a penetrating oil.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 11,638
|
![]() Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
Last edited by tubman; 02-10-2017 at 05:10 PM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Santee, California
Posts: 3,505
|
![]()
Cut it off where it meets the manifold, and use a hacksaw blade to carefully split what remains. Then you can reinsert what's left of the tube if it's OK, or find a better tube. I always like to shorten the 8BA tubes anyway as they are so long. They look much better when shortened.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: East Hartford, Ct
Posts: 5,898
|
![]()
Like V12bill says, tap the upper end of the tube in all directions (including as if installing ) Do not cut it off or you will be on the way to opening up a can of worms.
__________________
DON'T RECALL DOING SOMETHING FOR MYSELF BASED ON SOMEONE ELSE'S LIKES OR DISLIKES |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: East Shore of LAKE HOUSTON
Posts: 11,184
|
![]() Quote:
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 11,638
|
![]()
"Google" says that an air-only propane torch (like a garden variety Bernzomatic) burns at more than 3500 degrees F! I did not know that. I guess melting the manifold could be a concern!
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#11 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Sherman, CT
Posts: 335
|
![]() Quote:
__________________
" When I was a boy of fourteen, my father was so ignorant I could hardly stand to have the old man around. But when I got to be twenty-one, I was astonished at how much he had learned " Mark Twain. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Novelty, Ohio
Posts: 136
|
![]()
Heat up the tube with a propane torch (it won't need a lot of heat) then melt some candle wax around the base of the pipe. Then tap the top of the pipe all around (as someone else said), it should loosen so you can twist it out. Paul Selfe.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Canada Where it snows
Posts: 2,059
|
![]()
Yup x 2 ^^^^
You won't harm the manifold with a propane torch.Don't try and remove until it cools somewhat it may take a couple of try's but it will come out. R |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oshkosh, Wi
Posts: 4,600
|
![]()
I'd start out using a heat gun, rather than a torch.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 11,638
|
![]()
Thanks for the tips guys. I'm going to try a little heat, tapping, and penetrants first. This is a casting that is at least 60 years old and of questionable initial quality. I've seen too many aftermarket intakes over the years with broken flanges, broken bolt bosses, cracks, and especially damage to the generator mounting flanges to be wary of trying anything with a lot of brute force. If all of this fails, I'll probably try "Russ/40"'s method and cut it off flush; I'm sure I can get the remnants of the tube out with careful use of a die grinder. I agree with him that they're too tall stock. Wish me luck; I'm sure I'll get it. Patience is a virtue in a case like this.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mn
Posts: 2,543
|
![]()
Hey Denny, are you having fun yet
![]() As Paul Selfe said a few post above, use a little heat and melt in a little candle wax (paraffin wax). I've had success getting stuff apart with paraffin,,,good luck ![]() .
__________________
If mama ain't happy, ain't nobody happy. But if daddy ain't happy...RUN What I GOT DONE TODAY... I got the rear-end put in the recliner, and now I'm going to rest up & watch TV. ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Chester Vt
Posts: 8,985
|
![]()
50/50 mix will work the best as a releasing agent. Also put the intake in an oven and bring it up to 350 for an hour or so. might loosen it up.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,604
|
![]()
Cut it off and use the die grinder to carefully grind thru the wall of the tube so you can split it and pull it out.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#19 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Pa.
Posts: 2,217
|
![]()
Aluminum moves more with heat than steel. You should be able to heat the manifold to a 200 to 300 F degrees in an oven then remove and at the same temp the aluminum should expand more than the steel at the same temp, see the table. prior to the heating have a 1/2" or 5/8" hole drilled thru the oil fill to put a rod thru to give some torque to work it out. the steel should break free. Another trick as the aluminum has more mass and will hold radiat the heat longer is to apply a chunk of ice or cubes in a wet towel around the steel tube to ampifie the difference in the Thermal Expansion difference.
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu...les/thexp.html
__________________
Nomad |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 11,638
|
![]()
I like the oven approach. I think that's gonna be my first try at this. Anthony, thanks for the information; that's exactly the what I was looking for when I started this thread. When I get it out of the oven, I think I'll just fill the tube with ice cubes and crank away.
Now, if I can just get the ole lady out of the house for a couple hours....... |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|