Brake adjustment

[Beauford]

So been braking the law driving around in my running chassis but the brakes just dont feel right (little spongy)....what's the best way to adjust the brake shoes & brake rods...

[RonC]

From the Ford service bulletins:

"......pull the brake pedal all the way back until it is against its stop - then adjust the rod until there is about 1/16” clearance between end of rod and rear flange of center cross member (leaving a little clearance between end of rod and cross member prevents any possibility of the end of the rod rubbing against the cross member and causing a squeak).

"After adjusting the brake pedal to cross rod, assemble side pull rods to brake operating and cross shaft end levers. When assembling the side pull rods, pull the brake operating levers on the front axle back and the brake operating levers on the rear axle forward (taking up all idle movement). Then with the levers in this position adjust the side pull rods so they can be assembled to brake operating and cross shaft end levers.

Next adjust brakes by turning up the adjusting wedges as described on page 202 of the January, 1928, Bulletin. After the brake rods have been correctly adjusted car owners should be notified that this adjustment must not be altered. Service brake adjustments must be made only by means of the adjusting wedge at each brake."

From page 202:

"Make all adjustments with brakes cold. Jack up all four wheels. Release hand brake lever. See that wheels revolve freely. Turn the adjusting wedge at each brake (not the pull rod) until the brake drags, then back off the wedge 2 or 3 notches or just enough to allow the wheels to revolve without drag. On new cars brakes will sometimes drag slightly for ¼ or ½ revolution, due to slight high spots. Some judgment must be used in setting such brakes, for if the adjusting wedge is backed off sufficiently to allow the wheel to revolve freely, the brake pedal will go all the way to the floor board when the brakes are hot. A slight drag in one or two spots will do no harm, as the brake will soon free up when the car is driven a short distance and the brake drum slightly expands due to the heat generated. For this reason, brakes should not be adjusted with the drums hot, as when the drum contracts upon cooling it would cause the brakes to drag. To insure correct equalization have one man only check the brake pressure by rotating the wheel. If the above adjustments are correctly made the brakes should operate as follows:

1. Rear brakes should just start to hold when brake pedal is depressed approximately 1 inch.
2. Depressing pedal about 1/2 inch farther should tighten but not lock rear brakes and cause front brakes to just start to hold.
3. Depressing pedal approximately another l/2 inch should lock rear wheels and hold the fronts very tightly. With properly adjusted brakes this should not exceed one-half of the total possible pedal movement.

[JDupuis]

Moisha1, Welcome to the barn. I look forward to seeing pictures of your car. Jeff

[JDupuis]

Beauford, RonC's advice is correct. I also made the stick that Les has listed in the "redbook". Works like a charm. Good luck. BTW, enjoyed the video of you driving the chassis. Jeff

[d.]

please do yourself a favor and buy the Les Andrews "red" mechanics book, available from both Model A Clubs, MAFCA and MARC. This manual is just full of great illustrations and proven techniques. A lifetime of experience all neatly wrapped up in one manual, very helpful and insightful. Well worth the price.

[Beauford]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I got the almighty Les book but I have found people on this forum sometimes know tricks and tips that Mr Andrews does not go into. It is a wonderful resource as my engine and chassis I just rebuilt with zero mechanical knowledge is living proof of this site and the "red book"

smooooth.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cv_L...ature=youtu.be

[Beauford]

Originally Posted by JDupuis

Beauford, RonC's advice is correct. I also made the stick that Les has listed in the "redbook". Works like a charm. Good luck. BTW, enjoyed the video of you driving the chassis. Jeff

Thanks Jeff! Just got my carb right an posted the engine running....sounding a lot better!!

[chap52]

Informative You Tube video: https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...27&FORM=VRDGAR

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by moisha1

I found a similar procedure posted on this site

https://www.vintagefordforum.net

I have to take some pics of the car and post them

Moisha,
Forget the pictures for now.
Getting back to the brakes: Just turn each square brake adjuster to the RIGHT until the wheel locks. Back it off a few clicks until it turns freely. Make sure ALL brake rods move smoothly & in unison.
Generally, that should do it. There "may" be other issues to deal with, just using a common sense approach. You "might" have to recruit some PROFESSIONAL help??
Bill W.

[zzlegend]

This was posted a while back by Mitch. I think Purdy is the one who wrote this up. I just tried it two weeks ago and it seemed to help me. Just my 2 1/2 cents.

Here is what works for me ,,even if there is wear in the system. Disconnect all of the service brake rods at the clevis end. Adjust the brake pedal rod so that the brake switch plunger is 1/16 inch from the inside back of the center cross member with the brake pedal at the top of its travel. This is where the pedal rod plunger contacts the brake light switch on the 30-31 models. In extreme cases, to give more threads at the clevises it may be necessary to adjust the pedal rod all the way back to the center crossmember without the 1/16 gap. Because there will nearly always be some wear in rear wheel bearings and axle housing bearing races, I first adjust the rear brakes. With any wear, rear brake adjustments made with the rear wheels off the ground will be TOO tight with the wheels on the ground. With the tires properly inflated for easy roll, I adjust the rear brakes with the tires on the shop floor. You only want very slight drag if any or the brakes will quickly overheat. Unless something is too tight, wheel bearings, brakes or the tires are low, a man should be able to slightly push the car back and forth by hand while making adjustments at the rear wedges to determine brake drag. You don't want much drag. After the rear brake adjustments at the rear wedges have been made Move to the front. With jack stands under the front axle, adjust the front brakes at the wedges untill the brakes lock and back off as needed .You can check brake action by spinning the wheel and moving the brake lever by hand before connecting the brake rods. After the front wedges are adjusted, its time to move on to the brake rod connections . If you want good brakes, BELIEVE me, forget about any exact measurement here !!!!!!! The brake rods need to all be adjusted at the clevis ends so that the clevis pins will just enter the pin holes with ALL slack removed. This setup will have the pedal at the top of its travel and ready to put the lining to the drum. There is no need to concern yourself about whether the rear brakes engage first, its built in. I guarantee that if the brakes are right or even have some wear this setup will give very good brakes. anything less will not. In testing and as new parts wear in, adjustments will need to be monitored I usually make panic stops in sand or dirt to guage skid marks and adjust as needed.

[duke36]

After again much searching on the Barn and else where, I'm having trouble adjusting the rear brakes with the (heavy town sedan) car on the ground as suggested and can't seem to get the drag feel as opposed to jacking up all 4 wheels (equal jack stand hts.)as suggested in the Service Bulletins. Is there a way with the wheels off the ground to count adjust. clicks that would emulate the method with the wheels on the ground ?

[Dick Steinkamp]

Ron's post (service bulletins) have you adjusting the brake rods before moving to the adjusting wedges on the backing plates.

ZZ's post (Mitch) have you adjusting the adjusting wedges on the backing plates, then the brake rods.

Does it matter which is done first?

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by Dick Steinkamp

Ron's post (service bulletins) have you adjusting the brake rods before moving to the adjusting wedges on the backing plates.

ZZ's post (Mitch) have you adjusting the adjusting wedges on the backing plates, then the brake rods.

Does it matter which is done first?

Yes it does. I've not read where its said to do the rods first. I've always done the wedges first.

[Dick Steinkamp]

Originally Posted by Patrick L.

Yes it does. I've not read where its said to do the rods first. I've always done the wedges first.

See post #2.

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by Dick Steinkamp

See post #2.

I understand. I still say the wedges need to be adjusted first.

[Dick Steinkamp]

I think I understand why it really doesn't matter which is adjusted first (rods or wedges).

I don't understand why some (like the service bulletins) insist the rods need to be adjusted first and why some like Mitch and Patrick insist the wedges need to be adjusted first.

I can be convinced one way or the other but I'd need more than "I've always done it" or "I say..."

[Patrick L.]

The brakes should be adjusted as ZZ's post says.

The wedges need to be adjusted prior to the wheel pull rods. The center cross shaft is then adjusted if need be. Then the service brake pull rods are adjusted. I do it a bit different than in ZZ's post however. I also am a believer in the brake adjustment board.

If anyone doesn't want to do it this way, thats fine. Do what works for you. I suggest the system be taken apart or completely mis adjusted and then try and set up the service pull rods to the wheels before the wedges are adjusted and see how that works. As Bill mentions quite often, the way things are built need to be looked at and then common sense to figure it out and fix it. Actually the way I remember reading the service bulletins, the wedges are adjusted prior to the wheel pull rods.



Just a bit more. Once the pull rods are properly set up any minor change is said to be done with the wedges. I do it a bit differently. It takes a lot more time though. If I need to make a minor final adjustment I do it with the clevis. I take time to get the wedges where I want them and cycle them quite a bit while getting this adjustment where I like it. So I don't want to mess with them for quite awhile afterwards. If I feel 1 or 2 wheels need just a final bit of adjustment I do it at the clevis until all the brakes grab like I want. Then after some time if I feel like some adjustment is needed I'll then give a wedge a click which only takes a second.

Some folks will say these brakes don't work very well. Just another Old Wives Tale to me. These aren't like nice new modern brakes, but, being able to lock the wheels at 40mph is good enough for me.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Adjust the wedges until each wheel locks up, then back it off just enough to spin will a very slight drag. Then lightly pull the slop out, and adjust the brake rod ends so the pin will slide through. Insert the cotter, then test drive the car. If the brakes make the car pull to one side, tighten or loosen the brake wedges until it stops in a straight line.

So yes, the rods should be adjusted after the wedges are set up, then any final adjustment (fine tune for a straight stop) is the wedge.