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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ontario, CA
Posts: 187
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The wifey bought me an aluminum 2 blade fan for Xmas. I finally got around to installing it and it hits the upper radiator hose. What's going on here?
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Quincy, CA.
Posts: 1,708
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Do you have the correct water outlet casting for the year of your A ?
I have the same type fan on 2 of my A's, 1 on 1930 and 1 on a 1929, I had no clearance problem. |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Eastern CT
Posts: 2,732
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Your engine may be sitting too high if you have the replacement front mount springs that look like a bee hive, or you may have a replacement radiator that has the neck in the wrong place, or you may have a early type water outlet on the head if the car is a later car. It is not the fault of the fan, they are the same dimentions as the original 2 blade fan.
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#4 |
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 136
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Post a photo of your setup. Otherwise it's just speculation and wild guesses
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ontario, CA
Posts: 187
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I don't believe it's the engine height as the crank hole lines up with the crank. How can I tell if I have the correct water outlet?
I was replacing a 4 blade fan so can't compare to original....but definitely bigger than the 4 blade. I'll post pics tonight. |
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#6 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 7,305
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Charlie Stephens |
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#7 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 7,305
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http://www.vintageford.com/word_sear...ater&Category= Charlie Stephens |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 707
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I had the same problem, and just used a bench grinder to take a little (about an eighth of an inch) off both ends, being sure to keep it balanced.
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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I just took 3 picture of my top and bottom radiator outlets, and the water pump to radiator clearance. The picture for the water pump shaft doesn't show the cleance well, but it's between 3/4" to 1". This is all original parts.
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Central, IL
Posts: 3,968
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my 29 with a who knows what maker of radiator clears easily
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1929 Model AA - Need long splash aprons! |
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#11 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: St Charles , Missouri
Posts: 2,032
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![]() Quote:
1.shims under radiator - you don't want to change your hood alignment unless it needs changing.. 2. you already mention your crank pulley lines up so it is probably OK... it should be straight in.. no angling upward to get it to align. Many repro front engine mount springs and aftermarket units are incorrect and cause these issues. 3. I don't like to do it but on occasion I have shaved the fan length slightly. As said you must retain the balance and shape.... I would leave this as the last resort. Hopefully you have resolved/identified the problem.. the guys have some good posts above on this for you. All the best! Keep us posted. Larry Shepard |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ontario, CA
Posts: 187
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I will check things out first but if it comes down to shaving down the fan, how much clearance is necessary?
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#13 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Redding Cal
Posts: 1,388
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I wouldn't do that. Something else is wrong. Cutting the fan will make it out of balance and unless you're really good you won't be able to balance it
Every Model A except the early ones had the same fan so something else is wrong. Fix that and you'll be a happy camper
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#14 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cow Hampshire
Posts: 4,610
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Frames in this time period were made with the radiator landing points on the front cross member "lower" than previous anticipating the "taller" 1930 radiators. Just to allow use of the shorter 1929 radiators for a short period of the changeover, Ford installed "shims" to raise the landing point. You can tell if you have the earlier frame as the radiator landing point show "above" the frame side rails if a straightedge is placed across both landing points. If both landing points seem "below" the frame rails by a matter of a quarter of an inch or more, then you have a "transitional" or later frame. The original shims were square, are described in the Service Bulletins, and even Ford advised that the shim height could be adjusted "to bring body panels into proper alignment." One could use stacked round washers to achieve a similar adjustment. Something else to check... Joe K Who has three frames - two early and one transitional.
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#15 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 1,607
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1929 ccpu but with a 30 front crossmember so the radiator needed a couple of those rubber pads on each side. The vendors sell the pads they are about 1/8" thick.. I also have one of those float-a-motor type front engine mounts....but I did use the fan with the old metal yoke style...
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Early '29 CCPU that had a 4-speed, but not any more.......in the family since '62 |
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 1,099
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Hey Tom, you got many years more experience than me on model A's but it looks to me like your top hose ain't fur enough up on the radiator pipe. I'm still learning and try to analyze all photos for my own benefit.
John |
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#17 |
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 1,099
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Hey Tom, you got many years more experience than me on model A's but it looks to me like your top hose ain't fur enough up on the radiator pipe (2 nd. photo). I'm still learning and try to analyze all photos for my own benefit.
John Can't even figure how edit previous post. Last edited by aermotor; 04-18-2017 at 07:30 PM. |
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#18 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cow Hampshire
Posts: 4,610
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The funnel tops are one of the reason these early radiators tend to throw less water. Ford changed radiator suppliers/design sometime between 1928 and 1929 and the new radiators (non-funnel top) had more tendency to throw water. Hence about that time instructions in the Service Bulletins on how exactly to "bend" the overflow tube to put it out of the water stream coming up from the motor. Most replacement radiators built since have followed in concept these latter design radiators. Some closer than others to the original design? It may be possible that your particular radiator is "aftermarket replacement" and may have the angle of the upper tube or its placement wrong causing the close clearance at the fan? Quality control is ALWAYS a problem for mechanical assembly parts replacement. Another thing to check, Joe K
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Shudda kept the horse. |
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#19 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
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#20 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 1,099
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John |
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