The Ford Barn

12cliff23 · 03-14-2017, 05:02 PM

first, a big thanks to reds headers. also Jim a real stand up guy, but most of you already know that. received new headers for my 50 f3 and they are really nice.
ceramic coating is the only way to go.they fit perfectly.
I am thinking of using studs instead of bolts. what is the procedure for installing them? I can't imagine torqueing them in the block, was thinking maybe bottom them out and back out a turn?
thanks
cliff

drolston · 03-16-2017, 04:09 PM

For sure you don't want a bolt to bottom out, and I suppose it would make future removal of a stud easier if it is not jammed at the bottom.

Also use Reds on my '41. I would worry about clearance to get the headers over studs, especially on the steering box side. I started out using exhaust manifold bolts from Speedway, - with the small 3/8 and 7/16 hex heads. They were too long; more suited to Fenton type cast headers with thicker flanges. Ended up using 1/2 and 9/16 cap screws of the correct length. There is clearance for the bolt heads to the manifold pipe, but I had to use an open end on the larger (front) bolts.

Someone said copper exhaust manifold gaskets were better, so I used them. There is a raised ring around the exhaust hole on one side of the gasket. Don't know if it makes a difference which way up that ring goes. I put it toward the machined surface on the engine block. No leaks so far.

Don't forget the anti-seize.

12cliff23 · 03-16-2017, 05:10 PM

thanks
where did you get the gaskets?
cliff

drolston · 03-16-2017, 08:05 PM

They came from Speedway. Kind of expensive. $12.99 for set of 6.

Bored&Stroked · 03-17-2017, 06:43 AM

I tried the copper ones from Speedway, they didn't seal well in my case (ported block), so I went back to stock type from BestGasket

ADB-IA · 03-27-2017, 01:48 PM

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Cliff,
Do you have the original steering on your truck? Do these headers fit around the steering box without interference?

12cliff23 · 03-27-2017, 05:46 PM

yes to both, I have the orig. everything on my f3
they fit with no issues but getting the rest of the exhaust around the cross member looks tough the header extension the send is neat but a little to long
I would send you a pic. but I don't know how to post one. maybe to your PM if thats ok

drolston · 03-27-2017, 09:07 PM

Not having a cutting torch, or a decent welder, or a lift, I took my '41 to an old time muffler shop to install the headers. On the left side, they installed a flange type connecter just in front of where the header collector goes through the frame. They fabricated a head pipe from there back to the muffler. Because the exhaust ports are further to the rear on the right side, and starter access must be maintained, they clamped the front flange to the header collector just in front of the frame, and the flange is partially within the frame X member.

They had to do a little heating and banging on the left side head pipe to get clearance from a fully bottomed out clutch pedal. Otherwise, no leaks, no rattles, nice sound.

Cost me about $250, which I thought was a bargain for the amount of fabrication and installation they did.

ADB-IA · 03-28-2017, 09:17 AM

Thanks. I am working on a '50 F2. I am also staying original where possible. I completely rebuilt the motor and am ready to drop it back in. Many of the headers sold out there have interference issues with the steering sector. Glad to hear that I can buy some that don't need major rework to fit. Thanks again.

03-14-2017, 05:02 PM	#1
12cliff23 Member Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: western indiana Posts: 96	headers first, a big thanks to reds headers. also Jim a real stand up guy, but most of you already know that. received new headers for my 50 f3 and they are really nice. ceramic coating is the only way to go.they fit perfectly. I am thinking of using studs instead of bolts. what is the procedure for installing them? I can't imagine torqueing them in the block, was thinking maybe bottom them out and back out a turn? thanks cliff

03-16-2017, 04:09 PM	#2
drolston Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Williamsburg, VA Posts: 1,811	Re: headers For sure you don't want a bolt to bottom out, and I suppose it would make future removal of a stud easier if it is not jammed at the bottom. Also use Reds on my '41. I would worry about clearance to get the headers over studs, especially on the steering box side. I started out using exhaust manifold bolts from Speedway, - with the small 3/8 and 7/16 hex heads. They were too long; more suited to Fenton type cast headers with thicker flanges. Ended up using 1/2 and 9/16 cap screws of the correct length. There is clearance for the bolt heads to the manifold pipe, but I had to use an open end on the larger (front) bolts. Someone said copper exhaust manifold gaskets were better, so I used them. There is a raised ring around the exhaust hole on one side of the gasket. Don't know if it makes a difference which way up that ring goes. I put it toward the machined surface on the engine block. No leaks so far. Don't forget the anti-seize.

03-16-2017, 05:10 PM	#3
12cliff23 Member Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: western indiana Posts: 96	Re: headers thanks where did you get the gaskets? cliff

03-16-2017, 08:05 PM	#4
drolston Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Williamsburg, VA Posts: 1,811	Re: headers They came from Speedway. Kind of expensive. $12.99 for set of 6.

03-17-2017, 06:43 AM	#5
Bored&Stroked Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 5,723	Re: headers I tried the copper ones from Speedway, they didn't seal well in my case (ported block), so I went back to stock type from BestGasket

03-27-2017, 01:48 PM	#6
ADB-IA Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Iowa Posts: 2	Re: headers Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Cliff, Do you have the original steering on your truck? Do these headers fit around the steering box without interference? Last edited by ADB-IA; 03-27-2017 at 04:04 PM.

03-27-2017, 05:46 PM	#7
12cliff23 Member Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: western indiana Posts: 96	Re: headers yes to both, I have the orig. everything on my f3 they fit with no issues but getting the rest of the exhaust around the cross member looks tough the header extension the send is neat but a little to long I would send you a pic. but I don't know how to post one. maybe to your PM if thats ok

03-27-2017, 09:07 PM	#8
drolston Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Williamsburg, VA Posts: 1,811	Re: headers Not having a cutting torch, or a decent welder, or a lift, I took my '41 to an old time muffler shop to install the headers. On the left side, they installed a flange type connecter just in front of where the header collector goes through the frame. They fabricated a head pipe from there back to the muffler. Because the exhaust ports are further to the rear on the right side, and starter access must be maintained, they clamped the front flange to the header collector just in front of the frame, and the flange is partially within the frame X member. They had to do a little heating and banging on the left side head pipe to get clearance from a fully bottomed out clutch pedal. Otherwise, no leaks, no rattles, nice sound. Cost me about $250, which I thought was a bargain for the amount of fabrication and installation they did.

03-28-2017, 09:17 AM	#9
ADB-IA Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Iowa Posts: 2	Re: headers Thanks. I am working on a '50 F2. I am also staying original where possible. I completely rebuilt the motor and am ready to drop it back in. Many of the headers sold out there have interference issues with the steering sector. Glad to hear that I can buy some that don't need major rework to fit. Thanks again.