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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Eastern Pa.
Posts: 543
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I have a couple of questions.
The areas in the roof panels and cab back where the hidem strip nails to isn't in line with each other. They're a 1/4" off. Is this critical? The only thing I can think of that might help is to bevel the upper rear area of the wooden cross member. Have any other ideas? Also, my front header cover doesn't cover the header completely. Is this normal? If not, I'd have to shave off about 3/8" of wood. This seems excessive plus I'm afraid my visor wont fit then.
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1929 Coupe 1930 Coupe 1935 Ford 5 window coupe |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 8,043
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Could the two issues be related? Fix one, fix both.
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I sometimes wonder what happened to the people who asked me for directions. Even at my age, I still like to look at a young, attractive woman but I can't really remember why. |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: So Cal
Posts: 9,359
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I think you have way to much gap. Check out slides 14-20 at this link.
http://www.modelahouse.com/tech/puro...3_document.htm Bob |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Sedro-Woolley, WA
Posts: 1,023
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Vin Tin... Before you go nailing down your roof tin, fit both your doors and make sure that your door headers are not cut too long. I had to shorten up both of my "store bought" door headers so that the door strikers would make good contact. Once the doors fit their holes, then worry about the gap left in the roof tin. The new front header having to be shaved off is a common job too. Too much wood is better than not enough wood. Right? Make sure that the new windshield header is properly nested down into its new home before any windshield header shaving is done.
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#5 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Eastern Pa.
Posts: 543
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As far as the front header cover goes, are you saying there should not be any wood showing?
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1929 Coupe 1930 Coupe 1935 Ford 5 window coupe |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Sedro-Woolley, WA
Posts: 1,023
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I have always trimmed the windshield header wood down so that the 30-31 windshield visor's screws will properly fit the screw holes in the windshield stanchions. I have done four 30-31 pickup headers so far. I also trim the new windshield header wood down only far enough so that there will be no exposed wood as you look up to under the installed windshield visor and that the visor is resting on the windshield header wood instead of "just the the visor metal resting on the front metal cover of the windshield header". And this will be a big help: The door header length is correct if the "Door Opening Header Strip" part number A45890PU fits the door width openings perfectly. There are holes at either end of those door opening header strips that properly locate the door width openings. Adjust your door header lengths to match up to these holes. Last edited by SSsssteamer; 01-29-2017 at 11:31 AM. |
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#7 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Eastern Pa.
Posts: 543
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I have done four 30-31 pickup headers so far. I also trim the new windshield header wood down only far enough so that there will be no exposed wood as you look up to under the installed windshield visor and that the visor is resting on the windshield header wood instead of "just the the visor metal resting on the front metal cover of the windshield header". And this will be a big help: The door header length is correct if the "Door Opening Header Strip" part number A45890PU fits the door width openings perfectly. There are holes at either end of those door opening header strips that properly locate the door width openings. Adjust your door header lengths to match up to these holes.[/QUOTE] I went out and double checked the things you mention. The visor holes line up perfect with the windshield stanchions holes and the visor rests on the wooden header evenly the whole way across. I already shaved the header down enough to get it to that point. The door header length looks correct. As you said, there is a hole in the rear door header bracket. But there's only a "cut-out" area in the front bracket. No hole. This area and the rear hole do line up with the holes in the door header cover. So every area of concern that you mentioned looks as if it's correct, and that brings me full circle back to my original questions. I can weld some sheet metal onto the visor cover if I have to. That will extend it up to cover the exposed wood. I'm more concerned with trying to fix the area in the rear of the roof where the hidum welt goes. I'm going to bevel the wood a little at a time to see if that helps bring the hidum groove into alignment. Any other ideas?
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1929 Coupe 1930 Coupe 1935 Ford 5 window coupe |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: So Cal
Posts: 9,359
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This is from an old post by Marco.
"Finally, once the front face panel is properly fitted there should be approximately 3/16" of wood showing above the panel. Then before the final install of the face panel, a strip of fender welting is tacked to the face of the wood so the bead covers that 3/16" area of wood and forms a seal against the bottom of the visor once installed." Bob __________________ http://www.abarnyard.com/ |
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#9 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Sedro-Woolley, WA
Posts: 1,023
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Eastern Pa.
Posts: 543
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X2. The Barn is great! Thanks steamer and bob.
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1929 Coupe 1930 Coupe 1935 Ford 5 window coupe |
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