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#1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Canton TEXAS
Posts: 19
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More specifically center crossmember differences.
I have two frames. While doing some checking on which one to start with I noticing some differences I them besides the obvious differences in brakes ect. Neither frame has numbers visible so I'm lost there. Here are the pics of the center crossmembers |
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#2 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Canton TEXAS
Posts: 19
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The second crossmember
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: ⓉⒺXⒶⓈ
Posts: 2,047
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Your second frame without the teardrop holes is an earlier frame. Most likely 1928-1929.
The first frame you posted is a later frame, 30-31 style. I'm sure someone will know the date. Those tear drop holes are actually the punched out metal that became the brake rod silencer holders that were riveted on the side of the frame. Ford taking some metal from one spot and putting it in another. The small little ones on the bottom outsides... ![]()
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#4 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Canton TEXAS
Posts: 19
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That makes sense. The first frame came out from under a 31 coupe. It was cobbled together so I wasn't sure if it was original to that car or not.
Thanks for the info. |
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#5 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Canton TEXAS
Posts: 19
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I'll be stripping both of these frames for parts. The rails on both are heavily pitted with rust out in some spots. Oddly enough the only rusty parts are the rails. The suspension, steering, brakes ect are all pretty nice and can be saved.
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: ⓉⒺXⒶⓈ
Posts: 2,047
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-------------- Drive it like you know how to fix it! DMAFC / OILERS CC-MC |
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#7 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Canton TEXAS
Posts: 19
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There is nothing but rust pits in those areas. No visible numbers at all. Only a part of one single digit on the earlier frame. I got these frames and a trailer load of parts for basically free so I'm not sweating it. I got about $1500 worth or parts for my build out of it so I'm still happy with the situation.
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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Save that battery support, as it's original and better (more correct) than the repro ones. It can be sandblasted and a new bottom plate spot welded to it.
Even if the bottom of the battery support frame needs to be replaced, it's worth saving and doing that minor repair. |
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#9 | |
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Canton TEXAS
Posts: 19
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![]() Quote:
I will keep that in mind. |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Reseda, Calif.
Posts: 2,191
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I would be more concerned about which radiator are you running. A 28-29 or 30-31?
The front cross member will be the tattle tale. Unless you are running a different type custom radiator all together. |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Van, Texas
Posts: 1,122
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pay attention to ZZ's post. 29-29 radiators are different from 30-30 radiators and to accommodate the difference the front crossmember is different. ken
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lakeville, MN
Posts: 5,297
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The second frame is probably a late 28 or 29. Many 28 frames had two holes and indentations for the split brake brackets used in early model A's. There are no hole in the frame.
Rusty Nelson |
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