The Ford Barn

Bubsyouruncle · 11-10-2016, 10:11 PM

Back Story

The car came into the family in 1952. Worked ok for a couple years, then died. I started fooling with it in '56 or '57. Finally replaced the '34? engine in '61 with a '47. Used the car for a full year (1963/4) in Milwaukee with no problems.

Current

The engine still works today. When I can get the starter switch to work.

The original starter switch fell apart in the early '60's and the local Ford dealer provided a replacement. OEM? NORS? I have no way of knowing and it is over 50 years ago. Memory is faulty.

When the "new" one failed a month ago I took it apart, which was interesting. Nothing looked out of whack, except that the insulation paper was leaning into the switch. I put it back together and it worked. For a while. Now it has failed again. And looks the same inside. ARGH

The damn thing is so simple I can't imagine what the problem is. Two solid copper lugs at the bottom and a heavy duty spring loaded copper bridge piece that spans them when you step on the pedal. The heavy (1/16 inch) insulation keeps the electricity under control.

HELP

deuce_roadster · 11-10-2016, 11:04 PM

When you had it apart, did you face all the contact areas to fresh copper that contact well? Every time that switch works, it arcs a little. Like you said, it is dead simple. When it fails you, what happens? Nothing? Arcing?
I think new switches are available.

DavidG · 11-11-2016, 06:22 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I agree with deuce roadster that NOS and NORS switches are available, but don't let the seller convince you that '32-'34 switches are the same as they are not. The push rod on a '32 switch is exactly parallel to the steering column when installed whereas the rod on a '33-'34 switch is at 15 degree (or so) angle away from the adjacent steering column. The feet of the '32 switch where it's attached to the steering gear box are at a 90 degree angle to the body and push rod which is easily discerned in a side view of the switch.

11-10-2016, 10:11 PM	#1
Bubsyouruncle Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Gurnee, Illinois Posts: 272	'32 starter switch Back Story The car came into the family in 1952. Worked ok for a couple years, then died. I started fooling with it in '56 or '57. Finally replaced the '34? engine in '61 with a '47. Used the car for a full year (1963/4) in Milwaukee with no problems. Current The engine still works today. When I can get the starter switch to work. The original starter switch fell apart in the early '60's and the local Ford dealer provided a replacement. OEM? NORS? I have no way of knowing and it is over 50 years ago. Memory is faulty. When the "new" one failed a month ago I took it apart, which was interesting. Nothing looked out of whack, except that the insulation paper was leaning into the switch. I put it back together and it worked. For a while. Now it has failed again. And looks the same inside. ARGH The damn thing is so simple I can't imagine what the problem is. Two solid copper lugs at the bottom and a heavy duty spring loaded copper bridge piece that spans them when you step on the pedal. The heavy (1/16 inch) insulation keeps the electricity under control. HELP

11-10-2016, 11:04 PM	#2
deuce_roadster Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Shelton, WA Posts: 3,971	Re: '32 starter switch When you had it apart, did you face all the contact areas to fresh copper that contact well? Every time that switch works, it arcs a little. Like you said, it is dead simple. When it fails you, what happens? Nothing? Arcing? I think new switches are available.

11-11-2016, 06:22 AM	#3
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,601	Re: '32 starter switch Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I agree with deuce roadster that NOS and NORS switches are available, but don't let the seller convince you that '32-'34 switches are the same as they are not. The push rod on a '32 switch is exactly parallel to the steering column when installed whereas the rod on a '33-'34 switch is at 15 degree (or so) angle away from the adjacent steering column. The feet of the '32 switch where it's attached to the steering gear box are at a 90 degree angle to the body and push rod which is easily discerned in a side view of the switch.