engine run

[LEAZER48]

I have a rebuilt 59ab for my 48 coupe on a engine stand, I would like to start and run it to make sure it runs well before install. My question is what kind of set up would I need to do this?

[tubman]

If you are referring to an engine assembly stand rather than an actual test stand, you would probably be better off sitting it on some blocks or even an old tire to start it. The closer to the floor you can get it, the better.

[JSeery]

Not a good idea to run a new engine very long without it being under a load and it is also not a good idea to let it idle. That being said, to fire it up and run it, you need cooling (radiator and something to move air), a battery to provide power, something for exhaust and a fuel source (either a fuel pump setup or a gravity setup). You will need to wire up the bare minimum, I would want a starter solenoid, a starter button, a coil and an ignition switch. Which electrical parts you use and how they are connected depends on 6 vs 12 volts and positive vs negative ground.

If just want to fire it up for a short time, then you can skip the cooling and really simplify the other requirements. Ol Ron loves the tire trick!

[1949mercury]

For ignition switch can you just run a toggle from positive side battery to positive side coil if going neg ground 12v ?

[flatheadmurre]

If you run it without water leave the fanbelt off !
Waterpumps don´t like being run dry.
20 first minutes of a rebuilt engine is going to affect the rest of the lifespan...and they should be run open throttle not at idle !
Original coil needs a dropping resistor...a couple of 21w bulbs in parallel soldered too wire works (that´s what in the beehive coils).

[1949mercury]

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A Coil with a built in resister.

[Bored&Stroked]

As noted, the last thing you want to do is run it for very long - all you do is glaze over the bores and run the chance of not seating the rings. Just start it long enough to see that it runs and not much more. You're far better off getting it into the car, correctly hooked up with your radiator, hoses, etc -- break it in for 15 minutes at varying RPMs around 1500 - 2000 RPM (no idling), retorque the heads, check for leaks . . . then put it under some load as soon as possible ---> on the road, running it from a rolling start, then just about full throttle through the gears. Do that a few times, check for leaks again - retorque the heads one last time . . . you should be good to go.

[OLD AS I]

LEAZER48
Have just done the same thing, I PM 'd you saying I could send info on my setup but not heard from you