c4 behind a 59ab

[1931flathead]

I'm going to go look at a model a with a 59ab with a c4 in it is it possible he says he has to pull the oil pan so he can pull the transmission out this guy bought it this summer

I all ways thought the converter was to big to fit in the bell housing

[JSeery]

The converter is mostly in the adapter part and is smaller in diameter than the flywheel (flex-plate). http://www.flat-o.com/carproducts/flatomatic.htm

[Capt Kirk]

Not sure I understand the question. I'm guessing that he can pull the transmission without dropping the pan. There was a recent thread here that said removal of the torque converter required removal of the pan. Is he wanting to remove the trans or the TC?

[1931flathead]

just seen it on the web looks like could be a pain if you have troubles with the transmission

[1931flathead]

yes but putting back in be harder to do to line up the splines and tork

[JSeery]

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Originally Posted by 1931flathead

just seen it on the web looks like could be a pain if you have troubles with the transmission

LOL, any transmission would be a pain if you have trouble with it. It would be just about as difficult to pull the stock transmission. The C4 could be pulled leaving the converter in the adapter, but the adapter would have to be removed and reinstalled with the transmission in order to bolt the converter to the flex-plate and this would also require the oil pan to be removed (similar to changing a clutch plate).

[1931flathead]

that's the trouble this guy having with this one

[Ol' Ron]

The C-4 works just fine behind a 59 block, but won't fit in the X member. I tink you can get a torque tub modification for the trans bit a 3.0 rear would work mucj better. we used a Ford 8"

[scooder]

To pull the converter on a flat o matic with a stock pan on a 59A or earlier engine, you have to pull the pan to get at the torque converter nuts. A truck sump with the removable lower bell area is king here, as you don't need to pull the pan. Some folk cut access holes in a stock pan for the converter nuts.To clarify, the converter dose fit in the stock bell, but you can't get to the nuts. So truck pan or cut access holes make this job far easier.
Martin.

[JWL]

Yes, on the one C-4 to 59A I have done it was necessary to make a access panel in the bottom of the pan. This is not a big deal but something to be aware of. As already mentioned, the alternative is removal of the oil pan.

[JSeery]

The access hole is a good idea! The cover in that area is mainly a dust shield anyway.

[rotorwrench]

I wonder if access to the bolts could be gained through the starter hole? I've never worked on one so I don't know. I know they use a special torque converter for this application and it looks to be a small enough diameter to go through the bell of the engine & pan. A truck pan from a post war big truck would be a good thing here but I've seen folks modify a standard pan to gain access for clutch applications too. Something like that should work in this application. A person would just need enough of a trap door to get to the nuts on the TC. The truck application is a lot larger.

[1931flathead]

I do have a pan from a truck that unbolts I'm going to use it on my project soon as I seen it I was happy easy to get the clutch out with it

[scooder]

Rotorwrench,
The converter nuts are quite away inboard of the starter hole, so no, you can't unfortunately.
The flat o matic converter is a 10" custom converter, it measures 11" and yes it fits through the hole.
Are all torque converters an inch bigger than they state? I don't know, but it did surprise me. I'm more into manual stuff till my legs went stupid.
Martin.

[1931flathead]

yes they are to far in martin went in look at it to day they guy bought the car at a swap meat and drove it 200 miles to get home when he got close the transmission started slipping after it cooled down it would move he took it to a shop and said the sealing ring were wrong it would lose presser and lose the forward gears

[JSeery]

Not sure I understand any of that, but C4s are cheap to work on so a complete rebuild shouldn't be much of an issue.

[1931flathead]

was not bad I but when you pay good money for a car don't even get to drive it very far I heard he paid around 26 for it to me it was a custom frame and the body work was so so

[scooder]

C4's grow on trees over their don't they? Just go pick another 71 up C4 from the transmission tree, have a peek inside. Get the "how to rebuild and modify Ford C4 and C6 automatic transmissions" book and have at it.
That's what I'd do. But we don't have transmission trees over here, so I rebuild my own.
Bet a standard exchange unit could be done quite cheaply? If there's any kind of nasty in the pan, get the torque converter rebuilt or at least cleaned out properly. If the nasty is gray, rebuild is the only option.
In fact it's probably best rebuilt, one of my flat o matic converters is out of wack, it shimmys in the lathe. I checked as it was mentioned to me on here that it's sometimes the case that the flat o converters are a tickle off and need checking. And I know of one installation over here that kept buggering the input shaft or front pump. So a check could be prudent here. Should be fixed at a rebuild as they cut um open and weld um back up on a dedicated lathe.
Let us know how it goes,
good luck,
Cut access holes in the pan while it's off.
Martin.

[rotorwrench]

I love the C4 & C6. All my older Fords had cast iron case Cruise-O-Matics and they were finicky transmissions. I would look through a ton of cores to find one that wasn't cracked. The C4 & 6s are like a Timex watch. You have to work on killing them.

I like all the modern AODs for modern cars but for my play toys, I like them simple to fix. I'm just too hard on them but damn, it's a lot of fun!

[JSeery]

And if you want an overdrive you can add a GearVender unit.