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#1 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 2,871
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I clayed up the pistons & valves on a 59AB, and cranked it over by hand with the heads/gaskets on. The clearance between the head, pistons & valves is good. What I would like to know is how much does a typical metal/composite head gasket that measures .080 thick new, compress to when torqued down to 50#s. Using almn heads. Thank you Fordbarners.
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#2 |
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: NM
Posts: 2,443
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FelPro's on 8BAs end up right around .055"
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'52 F-1, EAB flathead |
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#3 |
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Join Date: May 2010
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Thank you very much for your response. Is the typical metal/composite sandwich head gasket around .080. ? If so, a compressed head gasket at .055, is a .025 squash, which is probably a good average.
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#4 |
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Tauranga, New Zealand
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Don't trust it without confirmation, but I think someone on here said 0.055" for a best gasket composite and 0.057" for a copper gasket (also Best brand)
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#5 |
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It just occurred to me that the famous "Flathead Compression Ratio Chart" includes assumed head gasket thickness. It shows some at .030" and some at .050". Doesn't say but I'd guess the thinner ones are copper and the thicker ones composite.
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'52 F-1, EAB flathead |
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#6 |
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#7 |
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This is steel /composite gasket, NORS. From the collective information here, it looks like .050 to .055 is a typical compressed thickness. I will do a search for the "Flathead Compression Ratio Chart". Also, what is a good source for 59 copper overbore gaskets, preferably NORS. Thank you.
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#8 |
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: NM
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Here it is (below)
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'52 F-1, EAB flathead |
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#9 |
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Tauranga, New Zealand
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Russcc, Best do a big bore gasket in Copper as well as in Graphtite. I have no experience with flatheads, but Best seems to have a good reputation. I would guess that Felpro have a similar reputation. I bought the Graphtite ones. I make the (maybe misguided) assumption that the Graphtite might somehow seal better, although previous experience tells me that this type of gasket is the worst to remove. By comparison the copper gasket is "lift off"
Why would I put one together with a plan to pull it apart again? Last edited by Bluebell; 06-18-2016 at 04:38 PM. |
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#10 |
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Location: Wichita KS
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#11 |
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Tauranga, New Zealand
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J Seery, I have to take the "glass half full approach"
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#12 |
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Join Date: Jul 2010
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I always use copper sandwich given a choice. I've busted far to many knuckles scrapping fibre type gaskets off the spiky hand destroying deck surface that awaits you when you pull a head for whatever reason. You know, the head that was the devil's own work to get off cus it's stuck on the block that bloody fibre gasket, aswell as hanging up on the studs.
To me engines of this vintage should be assembled with a mind to taking it apart. Removing heads to decoke the combustion chambers is part of the life of vintage engines, they do carbon up a lot more than modern clean burn engines. A decoke is part of a long gap service. Martin. And I'm a glass half full guy, also a realist. |
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#13 |
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Ohio
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You mentioned the clearances were "good" - what were your numbers with the gasket on and just hand tightened? What do you have over the valves (at the top of the valve reliefs in the head and over the pistons?
As many mentioned, I typically see numbers around .055 or so with both copper sandwiched ones and the Best Gasket GraphTite style. |
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