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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 157
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Is there a tool that I can make to stop the lifter from turning while being adjusted? Can someone post a picture?
Or who makes a stop device for this problem? Thanks Chet/ma. |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Santee, California
Posts: 3,505
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The best solution is to drill a 1/8" hole as low as possible in the boss that the lifter rides in. You then put an allen wrench or such into the hole to hold the lifter from turning. Of course the engine needs to be stripped to do this. Otherwise, buy the "Johnson" tools from one of the major suppliers.
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Irving, Texas
Posts: 598
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Chet, here are some pics of the Johnson tool. There is a left and a right. Ed
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Kaufman, TX
Posts: 822
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The drilling the hole method is a much better way to go. In using the manufactured tool method I actually broke the top out of a lifter and found that my flathead buddies method of drilling the hole was much faster and better.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 176
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Let me begin with. “This is my personal preference”
I don’t like adjustable lifters. Any time there’s a nut it will get loose especially when put under the wear and tear of a lifter. If your valves are cut and fitted correctly at rebuild you won’t have a problem. Don’t get me wrong each one needs to be fit and gapped individually. The adjustable valves correct problems from a less then perfect build. |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ashland KY
Posts: 1,159
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Auburn, MA
Posts: 2,106
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Chet I have the tools and you can have them. Tried a couple and ended up drilling them all. Of course I was assembling the engine and was able to remove them all. If you only need to adjust a few it will not be too bad.
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: pittsfield, MA
Posts: 2,086
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Chet,
How are you doing? Sounds like you are beyond the stage where you can drill the bores. These wrenches are a little tricky but work just fine once you get the hang of it. I can drop a pair in a mailer to you if you want. Just e-mail me. John |
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#9 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ehh...Denver
Posts: 196
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Gardiner Me.
Posts: 4,200
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Most adjustable lifters are junk now days, made in Kocamumga or some place like that. The adjuster is either to hard to move or there to loose. I don't use them, I butt grind like Henry did. Of course I relize not everybody has valve grinders and butt grinders. If I have to use adjustables I get the ones made in Austrailya (spelling) I know Reds Headers sell them and probably others. They are just like the old Johnson lifters. I just used a set a month or so ago. Every one of the adjustas turned with just the same interfearance. You can use the Johnson type to hold them. The best thing is to drill the lifter boss, but if your engine is all together use the tool. Walt
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ehh...Denver
Posts: 196
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Here's a shot of the last engine rebuild I did, showing the holes in the boss' where you can stick in an allen wrench to hold the lifter from turning while adjusting the nut.
I used a little drop of Locktite on each nut just to make me feel better...slim ![]() |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 157
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Thank you, Thank you The block that I was adjusting the lifters had been rebuilt previously and some one did not put the 1/8 holes low enough in all cases. So I got in touch with Joe's Antique and he supplied me with some wrenches. But thank you again for all the help. You guys are always there to help even on a holiday. Chet
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Marana Arizona
Posts: 1,829
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Before install you might carefully place them in a vice (I use a couple of pieces of scrap wood so I don't mess them up). Last set I had the bolts were EXTREMELY tight. A drop of Loctite is a great idea after adjusting.
Lots of great posts on here about sequence and adjusting. |
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#14 | |
Member Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 16,132
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Chester Vt
Posts: 8,985
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All this information and more, is in most of the flathead books, including mine.
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Capital of Corruption , NY
Posts: 848
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#17 |
Member Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 16,132
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#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 516
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I will be putting adj lifters in. My question is what is the best to use.
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#19 |
Member Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 16,132
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Depends on who you ask! I like the ones Red's sells.
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#20 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 29
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BUMP. I have a new set of Red's lifters and bare block. So put the cam on the base circle and measure how far down to the adjuster hole, simple enough. What about locating the holes horizontally, perpendicular to the cam or any old place? The holes in the photo above seem to be random.
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