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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Libertyville Il. 60048
Posts: 52
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I just read the posts on the removal of the tank on my 39 Std. coupe. Pry the frame rails to get it out? I mean really? Alright and to put it back in? Pry the frame again? There must be someone who trimmed something, the tank or frame to make it easier to go back in and out again if the occasion arose in the future, or is there another way? Also the single bolt with the spring is for frame flex, but how does it work and how tight against the spring should it be? Any pictures of the set-up? Thanks folks.
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: upstate SC
Posts: 3,000
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removing the tank from frame with body attached is pretty hard. on tanks with the short connecting tube, such as yours, it is even harder. remove bolts, fill hose, gas line and the sender unit wire, slid tank to pass side and lift up that end as you do so. this is where most guys result in using a prybar to push the tank even further over to pass side while trying to get filler end to come down. some of the repro tanks have a weld seam with wider left over metal which can make them even harder to put back, you can trim off excess as long as you don't mess with the weld
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: West Hammond, Illinois
Posts: 2,852
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I have done this a few times. Never had to pry the frame or anything else apart.
Muscle the tank over to the right and it should drop down on the left. Did you remember to disconnect the tail pipe from the frame and move it over to give you some room on the right? |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 756
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What's been described was my experience also. I did trim a little of the excess steel flange off, outboard of the weld. I also had to re-contour the Drake reproduction tank a little because the walls on the ends did not match the more vertical profile on the OEM tank. I was working on 39 PU. Sorry no pictures of the mods. I preloaded the spring only a little, enough so the tank didn't move with hand pressure but not so much as to worry about coil bind. When I got it back in I did have to grind a little off the inner fender well so the fill tube would fit. I do not recall with 100% certainty if the fill tube or mount holes were off but I didn't catch it until the tank was bolted down and there was no way I wanted to wrestle it out again.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 4,079
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I have always wondered why Drake and the like can't reproduce a fuel tank to the exact specifications of the Ford tank. It takes just as much time to do the job correctly as it does to make a crappy reproduction. Makes no sense. I just hate to buy stuff from guys like Drake because a lot of what they reproduce is still crap. I'd rather find NOS or used original parts here on the fordbarn.
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#6 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Libertyville Il. 60048
Posts: 52
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 4,079
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Place a want ad on the swap page , you would be amazed at what you will come up with. As for as wiring and light sockets, contact Tyree Harriss at 804-556-5200. Tyree makes all the wiring harnesses himself and they are excellent quality. He is located in Bumpass VA. I just spoke with him on the phone Monday.
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Oro Valley, AZ
Posts: 1,241
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I replaced the tank on my '39 Deluxe Fordor with a tank from Denis Carpenter. Not sure who made it, but their shipping to AZ was the best I could find. As others above have said, I was able to slide it in without prying or grinding anything. Hardest part was doing this lying on my back....before I got my 4 post lift!!!
Good luck. Am very happy with my new tank. Dick. |
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