The Ford Barn

mhsprecher · 05-16-2016, 06:14 PM

My 28 roadster, the one in my avatar, ran great when I got it two years ago. I drove it a lot and drove it to Hershey a couple of years ago. Last summer it started running poorly and a friend from my local club and I did a lot to get it to run better.

We rebuilt the distributor, putting a wireless plate in it. Still problems. We rebuilt the carb and still problems. I took the carb to a club workshop where I put in flow-tested jets, adjusted the float and did everything but replace the float valve - which had been replaced with a new style on the first rebuild. I needed to order a new throttle shaft as the original had a lot of play and the GAV seat was worn, so I replaced those. Still no luck and lots of gas leaking out of the carb air inlet when the car was stopped. I even replaced the manifold gasket in case there was an air or vacuum leak. Still didn't run well. Finally, I installed a carb that I had rebuilt at the club small parts day the year before. I hesitated taking that step because I wanted to get the other carb working right. I was pretty discouraged and wanted to try something more radical. Bottom line, the car runs much, much better with the replacement carb. I share this story as we all have times when we are at our wit's end.

I read the recent article in The Restorer about intake and exhaust. It got me to thinking about the muffler that was on the car. It seemed like there was a leak at the connection with the exhaust manifold. I did replace that with an Aires that I had bought used from a local chapter member. I will post about that when I get back home from a business trip and can load some photos.

1crosscut · 05-16-2016, 09:31 PM

If you are still leaking "lots of gas leaking out" I would pony up the few bucks and replace the float valve. If it runs a lot better on different carb something is amiss on yours. Are you running an air filter? Some carbs seem to be okay with a filter and some are not.

mhsprecher · 05-16-2016, 10:00 PM

I run a K&N filter, but had it off while doing the carb work. I reinstalled it once it was running better.

I will replace the float valve on the carb that was giving me trouble. It had to be part of the problem. I will also give the whole carb the once over. I didn't replace the float valve last go around because had just been replaced.

The good news is that I am now much more familiar with Zenith carbs!

johnbuckley · 05-17-2016, 03:49 AM

I've found all types of float valve need checking-grosse jet- viton, old, new, cheapo, expensive, whatever. I find they all have some rogue ones in any batch that are manufactured.
And here's my little list for Zeniths ...
Problem: Remedy
1 Leaking/loose float valve gasket: Tighten/reseal/replace
2 Leaking float valve: Replace
3 Friction on float hinge: Loosen
4 Incorrectly set fuel level: Re-set
5 Hole in float: Repair or replace
6 Too many gaskest on main jet Check
7 Cap jet or main jet too short: Replace
8 Leaking/loose gasket at main jet: Tighten/reseal/ replace
9 Leaking /loose gasket at cap jet: Tighten/replace
10 Leaking or loose GAV housing threads: Tighten/ reseal/ replace
11 Leak at fuel inlet union: Tighten/reseal/replace
12 Loose/leaking gasket at strainer: Tighten/reseal/replace
13 Loose/leaking gasket at drain plug: Tighten/reseal/replace
14 Cracked housing/leaking passage plugs: Repair or replace

1-7 will generally manifest as poor running.
8-14 will generally not affect running unless there is excessive leaking.

Ed Saniewski · 05-17-2016, 04:47 AM

I think you might start having a problem down the road soon with that wireless plate on your distributor. I tried one years ago and it only lasted a short while and I started loosing a clean connection between the lower and upper plates.

Mitch//pa · 05-17-2016, 05:19 AM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Ed Saniewski

I think you might start having a problem down the road soon with that wireless plate on your distributor. I tried one years ago and it only lasted a short while and I started loosing a clean connection between the lower and upper plates.

Yep What Ed said.. Those plates will cause you grief with intermittent drivability issues or an all out total break down.. Total junk this has been covered pretty good in the past.. Do a search "wireless lower plate".. I have a few I removed due to issues of backfiring / int spark,,I hung them up on my personal wall of shame..
"Modern"" improvements are not always better

mhsprecher · 05-17-2016, 04:42 PM

Good to know. Many people swear by them. Others swear AT them, I guess.

700rpm · 05-17-2016, 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mhsprecher

Good to know. Many people swear by them. Others swear AT them, I guess.

Most swear at them, sooner or later.

05-16-2016, 06:14 PM	#1
mhsprecher Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Takoma Park, MD Posts: 2,963	Carb woes My 28 roadster, the one in my avatar, ran great when I got it two years ago. I drove it a lot and drove it to Hershey a couple of years ago. Last summer it started running poorly and a friend from my local club and I did a lot to get it to run better. We rebuilt the distributor, putting a wireless plate in it. Still problems. We rebuilt the carb and still problems. I took the carb to a club workshop where I put in flow-tested jets, adjusted the float and did everything but replace the float valve - which had been replaced with a new style on the first rebuild. I needed to order a new throttle shaft as the original had a lot of play and the GAV seat was worn, so I replaced those. Still no luck and lots of gas leaking out of the carb air inlet when the car was stopped. I even replaced the manifold gasket in case there was an air or vacuum leak. Still didn't run well. Finally, I installed a carb that I had rebuilt at the club small parts day the year before. I hesitated taking that step because I wanted to get the other carb working right. I was pretty discouraged and wanted to try something more radical. Bottom line, the car runs much, much better with the replacement carb. I share this story as we all have times when we are at our wit's end. I read the recent article in The Restorer about intake and exhaust. It got me to thinking about the muffler that was on the car. It seemed like there was a leak at the connection with the exhaust manifold. I did replace that with an Aires that I had bought used from a local chapter member. I will post about that when I get back home from a business trip and can load some photos.

05-16-2016, 09:31 PM	#2
1crosscut Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Lincoln, Nebraska Posts: 2,011	Re: Carb woes If you are still leaking "lots of gas leaking out" I would pony up the few bucks and replace the float valve. If it runs a lot better on different carb something is amiss on yours. Are you running an air filter? Some carbs seem to be okay with a filter and some are not. __________________ Dave / Lincoln Nebraska

05-16-2016, 10:00 PM	#3
mhsprecher Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Takoma Park, MD Posts: 2,963	Re: Carb woes I run a K&N filter, but had it off while doing the carb work. I reinstalled it once it was running better. I will replace the float valve on the carb that was giving me trouble. It had to be part of the problem. I will also give the whole carb the once over. I didn't replace the float valve last go around because had just been replaced. The good news is that I am now much more familiar with Zenith carbs!

05-17-2016, 03:49 AM	#4
johnbuckley Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 1,557	Re: Carb woes I've found all types of float valve need checking-grosse jet- viton, old, new, cheapo, expensive, whatever. I find they all have some rogue ones in any batch that are manufactured. And here's my little list for Zeniths ... Problem: Remedy 1 Leaking/loose float valve gasket: Tighten/reseal/replace 2 Leaking float valve: Replace 3 Friction on float hinge: Loosen 4 Incorrectly set fuel level: Re-set 5 Hole in float: Repair or replace 6 Too many gaskest on main jet Check 7 Cap jet or main jet too short: Replace 8 Leaking/loose gasket at main jet: Tighten/reseal/ replace 9 Leaking /loose gasket at cap jet: Tighten/replace 10 Leaking or loose GAV housing threads: Tighten/ reseal/ replace 11 Leak at fuel inlet union: Tighten/reseal/replace 12 Loose/leaking gasket at strainer: Tighten/reseal/replace 13 Loose/leaking gasket at drain plug: Tighten/reseal/replace 14 Cracked housing/leaking passage plugs: Repair or replace 1-7 will generally manifest as poor running. 8-14 will generally not affect running unless there is excessive leaking. Last edited by johnbuckley; 05-17-2016 at 03:54 AM.

05-17-2016, 04:47 AM	#5
Ed Saniewski Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Denville NJ Posts: 975	Re: Carb woes I think you might start having a problem down the road soon with that wireless plate on your distributor. I tried one years ago and it only lasted a short while and I started loosing a clean connection between the lower and upper plates. __________________ Model A Ford Club of New Jersey http://www.mafcnj.org Model A Pick Up Owners and Enthusiasts https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/group.php?groupid=5

05-17-2016, 04:42 PM	#7
mhsprecher Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Takoma Park, MD Posts: 2,963	Re: Carb woes Good to know. Many people swear by them. Others swear AT them, I guess.