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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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I just had an email about having no spark, so I'll repeat what I told the man:
Use a test light to see where the voltage stops. With the key off you should have 6 volts on both coil terminals and on the wire from the coil to the switch. With the key on and points closed you should have ground on one side of the coil, both sides of the switch, and both sides of the points contacts. If the test light is lit on one side of the switch but not the other side, then the switch is turned off or it's bad if it's turned on. If the test light is lit on the movable points contact, but not the ground contact, then the points need to be cleaned. If the light is lit on both points contacts, then the distributor needs to be grounded. If the wire is screwed too far into the distributor, then it can ground out the lower plate bus bar. If the points are open and the key is ON, then you should have voltage all the way to the movable points contact. Last edited by Tom Wesenberg; 04-20-2016 at 09:50 AM. |
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#2 |
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This is a simple drawing to show the points Tom has mentioned;
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What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Santa Maria, CA
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Mike V. Florida...thanks for posting that handy circuit diagram! I am sticking a copy in my Les Andrews book for future reference.
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Alan 1929 Special Coupe 1941 Pick-Up 1955 Victoria |
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#4 |
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Danbury Ct
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Thanks Tom and Mike. Here is both the description and diagram in one file for those who want to save and/or print it.
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#5 |
BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks County, PA
Posts: 11,454
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With the key on points open you should have power all the way to the moveable point contact.
Tom I hope you don't mind that I added that Last edited by Mitch//pa; 04-20-2016 at 09:57 AM. |
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#6 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Long Island, NY
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Well done. I have downloaded your post to share with other Model A Ford folks.
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Bob Bidonde |
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#7 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Northport, NY
Posts: 1,597
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Tom or Mike V.,
Do you have the original drawing showing items 1 to 16 with their explanation? Could you please post that if you have it? I was thinking about what to look for on items 15 and 16 to determine if the upper to lower plate wire or contact is broken. Thanks |
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#8 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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![]() A test light is easier than a multimeter for these checks, and the light bulb puts a small load on the circuit being tested, so it can be a little more reliable in some cases. It takes almost no current to move the needle on a meter, so a very poor connection can show full voltage, but the bulb will use a little current to make it light up, so if it's dim, you know you have a poor connection. |
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#9 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
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Key on and no voltage at 15 with points open, then use the test light to follow the circuit and check for an open or ground. BTW, Harbor Freight has a good test light for under $5. Don't waste you money on the cheapest test light from the dollar store. |
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#10 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern Maine
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The test light is an amazing tool. The first step in using a test light is to calibrate it. To calibrate, hook the light across the battery, if it lights you are good to go. If it doesn't light the battery is dead or the light is bad.
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#11 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Between Seattle & Tacoma
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I've found your diagnoised results are only as good as your test equipment.
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#12 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Northport, NY
Posts: 1,597
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern Maine
Posts: 1,617
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Never underestimate the Rednecks!!
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