Paint screwup diagnosis

[Great Lakes Greg]

I just shot this and got a crinkle finish in one spot. Primed, sealer, base coat, clear would have been next. Surface was degreased and tack wiped.
I'm thinking I went too slow. Comments requested.

[aonemarine]

what was underneath?? Looks like some sort of reaction with underlying layer.
shit happens,. wet sand it back and re shoot.

[ian Simpson]

Silicone polish contamination?

[Tom Wesenberg]

I've had that happen when using spray can paint if I don't shoot the second coat within a certain time frame.

[Tinbasher]

Looks like a chemical reaction to the primer or whatever was underneath. What kind of primer surfacer did you use? Single stage or two part? If this was Lacquer primer the solvent in the lacquer was to "Hot" or strong. You have to wash or sand off the primer. sand the area underneath and reprime the area with 4 or 5 light coats of primer. Hard to tell you the correct way without knowing what your using for products. Definitely a solvent reaction.
Hope this Helps. John Poole

[Barber31]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

My vote is for chemical reaction.

[Larry Jenkins]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I've had that happen when using spray can paint if I don't shoot the second coat within a certain time frame.

Epoxy based paints will react like that. The VHT Brand warns of the "window" for re-coat.

[Great Lakes Greg]

Yes, contamination it is. I had some tiny pits in the surface and used a rattle can of high build primer to fill them. Todays lesson; use quality products made for the job and that will work with each other. Throw a pint of paint down the s-hole, sand back to the beginning and start over. Waste of materials, paint cups, and mostly about four hours of prep work which will now be doubled. These lessons are brutally unforgiving.

[Tom Wesenberg]

A two part filler will be better to fill the pits. I just used some 2 part Evercoat to fill some small pits in a bike rim, and it worked fine.

[tbirdtbird]

avoid rattle can primers; they have lacquer in them, and will trigger this reaction with any type of urethane coatings

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by Tinbasher

Looks like a chemical reaction to the primer or whatever was underneath. What kind of primer surfacer did you use? Single stage or two part? If this was Lacquer primer the solvent in the lacquer was to "Hot" or strong. You have to wash or sand off the primer. sand the area underneath and reprime the area with 4 or 5 light coats of primer. Hard to tell you the correct way without knowing what your using for products. Definitely a solvent reaction.
Hope this Helps. John Poole

X2
Not silicone contamination.

[kwisor]

will self etching primer do this. that is in rattle spray can using unithane
kevin
1930 tudor

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by kwisor

will self etching primer do this. that is in rattle spray can using unithane
kevin
1930 tudor

I've been using self etching primer (mostly from Rustoleum) along with other spray can paint, and never had a problem. I haven't used self etching spray can primer with quality 2 part paints though. For any chassis and body painting I'd only use the expensive quality paint. I use the spray can paint for by bicycles, mailbox, and some smaller car parts.

[pooch]

Too long or not long enough .

The overcoating has to be done before the skin has hardened OR left to harden completely.

The fresh coat bit thru that skinning .

Called frying.

[Tinbasher]

Welcome to the world of Body and Paint. One short cut and its costs. The best lesson I ever learn't was to give the products the proper dry times. I like primers and primer surfacers to sit for 10 days before I sand and move one. Just saves a bunch of grief.

John Poole