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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 121
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I've cleaned and dried up my PH bearings (with paint thinner)and they seem tight but what should I relubricate them with? I know there is at least the front sealed bearing available but if I don't need to buy one why bother.
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Quincy, CA.
Posts: 1,708
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Re-placing the bearings with sealed bearings will keep the generator much cleaner on the inside and well worth the cost and effort.
Ron |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Rocklin, CA
Posts: 779
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I concur, sealed bearings are the only way to go with the power house generator!
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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I seldom replace the powerhouse bearings, unless the customer asks for sealed bearings, or in the rare case that they actually need to be replaced. I pack the bearings with Mystik JT-6 High Temp red grease. I put some in the cavity between the bearings also, but not so much that it pushes out the ends. Sealed bearings are also fine, if that's what you want.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Englewood, Colorado
Posts: 1,377
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Tom, do you want to rebuild some powerhouse generators for me. I have many of them, but nobody out here that will build them so I can sell them. Email me if you are interested. No hurry.
Steve Becker Bert's Model A Center [email protected] |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,517
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 121
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OK thanks guys for all your help.I don't planning on touring with this car and the bearings are in great shape.I'll put some grease in them and hope for the best.It's easy to remove if I need to.
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#8 |
Senior Member
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__________________
What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 121
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Thanks Gary:
I was wondering where to get the smaller bearing as it doesn't seem to be listed in the sources I've checked.Only the larger bearing is listed.However I'll go with greasing for now as it takes a couple of weeks to get parts. |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 121
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Re Mike's question for touring...if I lived in Florida and could depend on great weather every day I might consider it. I know we should be driving our cars but with all the work to restore them and make them look like new I'd like to keep it that way for at least a few shows
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Pine, AZ
Posts: 823
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Here is the information I have for Power House Gen Bearings
Front Bearing FAG 6204.2RSR.C3 Dayton & Grainger #1ZGH4 NTN 6204LLBC3/L627 Grainger 6L026 Bore 20mm Outside Diameter 47mm Width 14mm Rear Bearing FAG6203.2RSR.C3 Dayton & Grainger #1ZGH3 NTN 6203LLBC3/L627 Grainger 6L025 Bore 17mm Outside Diameter 40mm Width 12mm These bearings are sealed instead of the open type. |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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All you need to know is the front bearing is 6204 and the rear bearing is 6203.
The rear bearing is the same as the front bearing used on the long generator. I find buying the bearings from the Model A parts houses, such as Bert's, Bratton's, and Snyder's is usually cheaper than buying them from a bearing or car parts store. |
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#13 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Phoenix, Oregon
Posts: 661
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Mike Stitt "A business that make nothing but money is a poor business." -Henry Ford |
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 121
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All great info guys .Thanks ! My original well greased bearings are installed but they weren't as tight as I'd like them to be in the housing.They are tight on the shaft. So I dimpled the housing all the way around where the bearings seat but now the shaft won't turn with fingers. I have to thread a bolt in the shaft and with slight pressure the shaft will turn. Is this normal and would dimpling tighten up the bearing itself? I also had trouble trying to get the dust cap off at the brush end of the generator so I left it in place.
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#15 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 709
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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The dust cap on the inside end of the shaft is factory crimped in place and CAN'T be removed. I seem to recall someone mentioned it should be removed, but that is wrong. There should be a thin cork gasket between the rear bearing and dust cap. That gasket is held in place by the dust cap, but if someone destroyed the gasket trying to remove it then you must cut another one to slip in place. Without the gasket the shaft cam move in and out, and it should be spring loaded with zero fore and aft play. The spring is the spring washer under the serrated nut that is screwed onto the front of the case.
If you tried to pound out the dust cap and bent it, I hope you pounded it back into shape, or you may have end play on the shaft. |
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#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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Here's a link to a thread on powerhouse generators that might help you with the bearing problem.
Reply #11 shows the parts used in exploded views. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...se+picture+tom |
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#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Red Deer, Alberta
Posts: 5,715
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Tom, what is the tool w/the aluminum(?) handle and the round strap for? It looks like it may fit the 6204 bearing.
Tnx, Ken
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If you don't hear a rumor by 10 AM, start one!. Got my education out behind the barn! |
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#19 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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That tool is to remove and install the special serrated nut holding the bearings in place.
I made it using some steel banding strap and aluminum bar stock. Also note the steel bar with a pointed edge to grip the serrations. |
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