Mitchell O/D with cable operation

[Del in NE Ohio]

I agreed to help a club member install his Mitchell O/D when he receives it. He has ordered the cable option to replace the operating lever. I've never seen the cable setup. Any 'Barners have experience with this setup? Photos?Tnx!

[duke36]

Yes, have Mitchell cable in another later mid '30's car. The cable extends down from bracket under dash and is curved over to steering column opening before it runs thru firewall and under car. The trick is to make sure cable is proper length for adjustments (to be able to push/pull cable for proper engagement and with gradual curves over its length).

[Tom Wesenberg]

And be sure to keep the cable well lubed. I like to remove the inner cable and squirt oil down the housing, then push the cable in while running it through some grease in my hand. This is the same way I do speedometer and any other cables. I need to tighten the cable a bit on my snowblower now because after I oiled it, it won't stay on high speed.

[Synchro909]

I have a Mitchell O/D in 3 Model As, all operated by the standard extra lever behind the original shift. I don't like the extra lever. When I enquired at Mitchell about converting to cable, they gave me a price which I can't remember now but I'd have to sell the house to buy one.
Now the Hijack! Does anybody have any other ideas on how to get rid of the extra lever short of taking the O/D out of the car (won't happen). Solenoid perhaps?

[Lawrie]

Arnold, look at the two speed eaton axle shift motor of an old bedford,or a throttle shift motor of a JLG boom lift.
Lawrie

[Synchro909]

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Originally Posted by Lawrie

Arnold, look at the two speed eaton axle shift motor of an old bedford,or a throttle shift motor of a JLG boom lift.
Lawrie

Thanks Lawrie, I'll do some sniffing around.

[2manycars]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

I have a Mitchell O/D in 3 Model As, all operated by the standard extra lever behind the original shift. I don't like the extra lever. When I enquired at Mitchell about converting to cable, they gave me a price which I can't remember now but I'd have to sell the house to buy one.
Now the Hijack! Does anybody have any other ideas on how to get rid of the extra lever short of taking the O/D out of the car (won't happen). Solenoid perhaps?

I was thinking a 6 volt linear motor with proper linkage would work.
A google search showed several suppliers.

[MAG]

This one has been installed about 3 years. Daily driver. No trouble.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by 2manycars

I was thinking a 6 volt linear motor with proper linkage would work.
A google search showed several suppliers.

That sounds like it would be a good choice.

My neighbor just bought a low hours John Deere lawn tractor, then went to another dealer and bought a snowblower attachment. Now he wants to buy the cable that tilts the end of the chute, but John Deere wants $300 for the cable and 2 simple brackets to hold it.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

That sounds like it would be a good choice.

My neighbor just bought a low hours John Deere lawn tractor, then went to another dealer and bought a snowblower attachment. Now he wants to buy the cable that tilts the end of the chute, but John Deere wants $300 for the cable and 2 simple brackets to hold it.

That's the sort of thing I found when I enquired at Mitchell about converting to cable. I bet they don't charge much if any more for a cable change new!
My only reservation about a linear motor is that they apply a fairly large force which might put too much pressure on the synchro rings for longevity, especially when it is still cold. I'd lose the ability to "feel' the change. Only need a "throw" of about 3/4". Most seem to be waaay more than that. Might need to put a cut out switch on it to limit the travel. Not a bad thing anyway.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

That's the sort of thing I found when I enquired at Mitchell about converting to cable. I bet they don't charge much if any more for a cable change new!
My only reservation about a linear motor is that they apply a fairly large force which might put too much pressure on the synchro rings for longevity, especially when it is still cold. I'd lose the ability to "feel' the change. Only need a "throw" of about 3/4". Most seem to be waaay more than that. Might need to put a cut out switch on it to limit the travel. Not a bad thing anyway.

I have the same concern about not being able to feel the shift.

I took some GM power window units apart after the cables broke, and the motors have a set of tension contacts that limit the travel when the glass reached a certain level of resistance. Say you are raising the glass and it reached the top, then the UP contacts open, so it won't keep trying to go up even if you push the switch up. The same holds true for lowering the glass.

Now, maybe out frozen wipers to glass need the same limit switch.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I have the same concern about not being able to feel the shift.

I took some GM power window units apart after the cables broke, and the motors have a set of tension contacts that limit the travel when the glass reached a certain level of resistance. Say you are raising the glass and it reached the top, then the UP contacts open, so it won't keep trying to go up even if you push the switch up. The same holds true for lowering the glass.

Now, maybe out frozen wipers to glass need the same limit switch.

Car makers would have to do that to cover idiots who might have their head out the window while someone winds it up. With no tension switch, that could be fatal.
Never seen a wiper frozen to the window here.

[Del in NE Ohio]

Tnx Mag! Just the input I needed! I talked to my friend Tom Jordan at Snyders yesterday and he told me that he had sold several of the cable operated unit, mostly to Aussies with RHD cars. No reported problems.