29 fuel tank welt

[Brianfrench65]

There must be a technique for installing the welt with the tank, without cutting the welt? It is getting cut around the corners. Several club members have used a bead of paintable caulk. I was hoping to use the welting. I did stitch tails of cloth to pull it from underneath, but it is getting pinched and cut.

Any suggestions will be very graciously accepted and appreciated.

Thank You.

[Fred K-OR]

Brian, is this on top of the tank? Or is underneath each end? If it is the one on top, I used "painters" (blue) tape to hold it in place. Then pulled the tape out or tore it off after the tank was in. Don't know if this helps. Guess I am confused about your needs.

[Brianfrench65]

Fred:

That is very helpful. My biggest issue is around the corners and over the cowl panels, about over where a cowl light could be mounted.

Thank You.

[wrndln]

I have install the correct 3/16" bead cowl/gas tank welting on two cars I restored (a 28 and 29) with minimal problems. I didn't need to attach anything to the flat part of the welting, as it was long enough to grab it on the inside. I bought my welting from Roy Nacewicz that has the correct paper core and is printable. He calls it pyroxilyn. I loosen the cowl to A pillar bolts (remove most of them) and put the welding in one side. I then mark the holes and then punch out the holes a little bigger than the 1/4" bolts and remove the welting. I then install the gas tank and slid the welting in the cowl area and across the gas tank and down the other cowl. Again I mark the holes and remove the welting cross the gas tank and down the cowl/A pillar. I then punch the holes slightly larger than the bolt holes 5/16" to 3/8". Now the holes are all made. I then slide the welting into the joint of the loose cowl and gas tank. Sometimes you need a screw driver to pry open the joint to get the welting to slid in (from the inside). Once the welting is mostly in, I use a vice grip or pliers to pull the welting bead tight against the joint. Maybe the Roy N. welting has a longer tail on it, but I have had no problem clamping onto it and pulling it tight from the inside. Roy's welting is more expensive than the cheap plastic cored stuff, but in my opinion is well worth it. The cowl gas tank welting is suppose to be painted body color. I have see some model A with black welting a to me it looks wrong. On the last welting I installed, I found a trick that worked well. On the bolt holes that are very hard to get to, like the top of the A pillar/gas tank, I used a soldering iron to burn the hole in the welting.
Rusty

[Brianfrench65]

Rusty:

This sounds too easy. I am wondering if the cowl welding I bought is too thick. I'm going to order some more.

Thank you for your guidance.

Thank You; Brian

[Bob C]

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Like Rusty said get the welting from Roy Nacewicz, it's on page 14 of the link.
http://www.fordscript.com/ford_bolts...ogs/modelA.pdf

Bob

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by Brianfrench65

Fred:

That is very helpful. My biggest issue is around the corners and over the cowl panels, about over where a cowl light could be mounted.

Thank You.

You mentioned in your prior post about holes. I had to cut a triangular chunk out of where the bolts went through the tank and cow panels. This made it easy to put the webbing on the panels with the use of the tape to hold it in place. This is my "sloppy" way of putting the web in. I am sure Rusty's way is much better.

[Brianfrench65]

Awesome.

Thank you all.

[Russ/40]

It was very difficult for me. I had problems with the welting getting pinched at the extreme ends where it begins the turn downward. It took many attempts at locating the welting in different depths relative to the cowl, eventually to where the tank pulled the welting in as I pushed the tank in. I left the welting whole, and heated a punch and melted the welting for the bolt holes.

[Roadster62]

All the time spent installing welting on the tank and fenders makes you wonder how they ever produced the Model A in the first place. Be sure every bit of the old welting is removed and the tank and side panels are unbolted, it just takes time. I found those plastic molding removal spoons worked well pushing the welting in place on painted panels. I plan to use the Nacewicz welting on my own car when the time comes. Bob

[Brianfrench65]

Russ / Bob:

Very helpful posts. Patience and perseverance will ultimately prevail, I just hope I'm up to it.

Thank You All For The Support; Brian

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Friend, Ted, builds some REALLY nice Model A's, but he HATES tryin' to do welt!!! He carefully caulks the joints & has his pinstriper paint it! Nobody even notices it!
Bill W.

[Brianfrench65]

Bill; thank you for that suggestion. That very thought has crossed my mind more than once. I have been looking at the bead of caulk around my shower, thinking exactly that.

Thank You; Brian

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Brianfrench65

Bill; thank you for that suggestion. That very thought has crossed my mind more than once. I have been looking at the bead of caulk around my shower, thinking exactly that.

Thank You; Brian

Don't wimp out! Are you the "Lady in Pink" or are you a Model A mechanic?

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Tom,
Go easy on Bro Brian, we're not all "TRIMMERS"---BUT, I'm a GOURMET COOK, wish you could come for DINNER! Favorite cookbook is, "WHITE TRASH COOKIN'"
Bill Tasty

[Brianfrench65]

Tom; I'm going to do the right thing. I've ordered 2) sets of fuel tank / cowl welt from Fordscript, and I am determined to get this right. The caulking is good for a house painter, but not good enough for me.

Don't get me wrong---I was considering a bead of caulk.

Thank You Very Much; Brian