C8BA aluminum head torque specs

[27lizzie]

I have a set of 1949 C8BA Canadian aluminum heads that I am going to use and I want to know if the torque specs for these heads are different from the cast iron heads. Can't find any references to them. Thanks Marlon

[Charlie ny]

Liz,
Torque ,50 ftlbs ,I dunno but that head is one BEAUTIFUL piece.
Charlie ny

[tubman]

I see that that head has no provision for mounting an oil filter canister directly to the head. Did they use an auxiliary bracket like the earlier engines? They would look good on a full-flow conversion with a remote filter without the "bumps".

[Frank Miller]

49 Ford filters bolted to the head bolts. The oil filter bosses were added in 50. The heads and filters are differen for those years.

[Charlie ny]

Liz,
I'm looking at your piece again......so pretty......the casting and machining
are so centered and uniform, ok I'll go away.
Charlie ny

[sidevalve8ba]

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Those are NICE looking heads! I wonder if they have a different compression ratio than the cast iron models?

[27lizzie]

I will post a pick of the of the chambers, I had them checked and they came in at 71cc

[JWL]

Never more than 50 ft. lbs. of torque. And, I agree---those are beautiful heads.

[27lizzie]

A pic of the chambers, I can't tell if they been milled. Thanks for the torque spec info Marlon


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[Ronnieroadster]

The combustion chamber size on the Canadian C8BA aluminum heads as well as the Canadian aluminum Mercury equivalent are small from the factory for some reason.
On the one set I have used so far to get proper piston dome clearance around the outer edges of the piston I had to use my doming tool. Hated to cut the NOS set of such beautiful heads but I will say the engine runs strong and cool after the doming was completed.

[40cpe]

Do the "dimples" align with the center of the piston(s) on all heads? Can they be relied on to be the center of cylinder and piston?

[Ronnieroadster]

Originally Posted by 40cpe

Do the "dimples" align with the center of the piston(s) on all heads? Can they be relied on to be the center of cylinder and piston?

The answer to your question is yes I have found those dimples are the center line of the dome. If there's any doubt use a head gasket which has first been checked against the block cylinder edge for visual accuracy. Then place the head gasket on the head deck surface hold the gasket in place with head bolts then measure the fire ring to the center of the dome. With a basic ruler you can see how close that point is to being centered to the edge of the gasket.

[40cpe]

Looking at the chamber side of those heads, It looks like where the transition starts varies in the cylinders using the dimple as a reference point. Maybe it is of no consequence.

[27lizzie]

Just for conversation, here is the cast iron 1949 8BA head next to the C8BA aluminum head There is a difference in the transfer area.

[Kahuna]

The combustion chamber design is exactly the same as the Canadian C7RA heads. I was able to buy a NOS set for the engine in my 32 Ford. I personally think the chamber design is much better than any of the after market Offy or Edlebrocks, or anything else.

[Ol' Ron]

I have to agree. The only modification I'd make is for piston to head clearance. .045/.050" and smooth off the exit of the transfer area. I run the cast iron version on my 280. I have another ser that will get the re located spark plugs. Gota keep putzin, might find sompin that works better??

[40cpe]

Ol' Ron, just curious, but what bore/stroke gets you 280 cu in?

[Ol' Ron]

the engine was an old 276, L-100, HC heads, etc. I had it in storage for aprox. 5 years with no spark plugs. The cylinders were pretty bad. I bought a set of Egge 3 5/16 + .020" =279.4/ I rounded up to 280 the EAB heads give 8.2 CR. Cam is a stock EAB as well. Torque is amazing.

[JWL]

NO! The dimple near the center of the dome clearance machining is not a precise representation of the dome center. Like all cast surfaces it is subject to wander. It is simply there to enhance machining characteristics and is big enough to be within 1/8" and still do the job.

JWL

[GOSFAST]

Hi "27", just a tip here, if you are going to use bolts to hold the heads in place I strongly recommend using some "special" (see photo below) very thin washers with the bolts. These washers work well with the OEM head bolts and are designed for this very purpose. If you look closely you will notice they are parallel ground AND chamfered.

These washers help keep everything nice and tight and help avoid "relaxing" the torque due to the expansion and contraction of the head material! We use them on iron heads also just as a precaution.

I would also consider machining the head bolt bosses slightly for a nicer finish, especially if the heads have been glass-beaded/shot-peened?? Just my take on it!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Here's a photo of the washers, they are only .070" thick and almost entirely "invisible" on the finished product.