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#1 |
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,425
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Some shops are now using nylon lock nuts on the bearings, grade C for higher torques. One explanation is that it's easier to get the exact torque without having to over or under torque to catch a slot for the cotters. Any thoughts on this?
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#2 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Clinton,WA/Whidbey Island
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I would not use them!
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#3 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: NorCal
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I'm with Gary. Don't use them. Find a new shop.
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#4 |
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: inside your RAM
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" without having to over or under torque to catch a slot for the cotters."
You never have to do this if you do it the correct way. Torque to spec. If cotter window does not line up, remove nut and grind a little off the base of the nut. May take a couple tries. Use side of grinding wheel. Do it right, Nylocks do not belong inside a motor. Get ARP nuts
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#5 |
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Upstate in NY's beautifull hills
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[QUOTE=tbirdtbird;1240042]" without having to over or under torque to catch a slot for the cotters."
Nylocks do not belong inside a motor. Get ARP nuts DITTO |
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#6 |
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Location: Lakeville, MN
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#7 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Temecula, CA
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Castleated nuts have only about 3-4 full threads, I do not use them. ARP nuts are the best and they will not back off when tight, no loctite is needed but use it if it makes you feel good.
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#8 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: NC
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Nylon and hot oil do not work. Use nuts that are made for rods, like the cars today use. They will not come loose. I would find a new engine builder.
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#9 |
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Join Date: Jun 2015
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Are the ARP the American racing 12 point nuts? Concur about the builders. We've been talking to some and the opinions seem to vary. Very much appreciate the feedback.
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#10 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Madison, NJ
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And on the torque...doesn't the nylon going over the threads need significant torque that does not contribute at all to tightness at the thread? I would think that torquing a nylock nut would give numbers that could not reasonably be interpreted.
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#11 |
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"Are the ARP the American racing 12 point nuts"
yes they have a very good website get anything you want http://arp-bolts.com/kits/Bulk.php?P...*&D=3&P=*&WS=*
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#12 |
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Join Date: May 2010
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Oil the threads.
Pull the Main bolts to 80 foot pounds, and then the Key hole if you need to, and forget it. If the threads give up, they are not any good anyway. Herm. |
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#13 |
Senior Member
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Don't know that I would use Nylon but think steel locking nuts would work ok. They use a lot of them to hold airplanes together but then they also use Fibre self locking as well, All depends where and how hot the area is.
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#14 |
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: santa rosa ca
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When you buy ARP nuts for a Model A rod for example,do you have to specify or ask that they are for a Model a rod or just the size and pitch? I am getting ready to assemble an engine.
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#15 |
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just the size and pitch
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#16 |
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There was no torque specification back in the day so use what you are comfortable with.
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#17 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wa.
Posts: 5,423
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The modern nuts are called Marsden nuts. Available at most auto parts stores. I won't bother explaining how they work because that has been covered here and on the early V8 section poofteen times. |
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#18 |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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What are ARP nuts?
I've been using Nulock nuts for years - many thousands of miles with no problem. I'll be using them again in the engine I'm building now. Herm, 80 ft pounds on the mains? All the literature I have seen says 45. That's what I have been using again, with no trouble. Big ends - 35, Mains - 45 and head - 55 ftlbs.
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#19 |
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see #12
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#20 |
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Join Date: Jun 2015
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The Marsden's as stated by PETE are shown in the photos from a co. , LOK-MOR, and have the slots cut in the sides; the ARP have 12 point or hex flanged nuts listed. I guess one could use either style or just stay with the stock castle nuts. Interesting the range of preferences.
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