Drag link install tips? Pitman screw cap not threading

[99sh]

I'm having a bit of a struggle installing the drag links back on post front end reassembly. I changed out both spindles, replaced one axle which was turned down and put it in teflon ez steer inserts.

With the drag link on my workbench I cannot get the screw end-cap to thread. I replaced the grease seals and have everything clamped down to compress the ball against the seal; however the spring is flush with the end of the draglink. Not even a single thread exposed.

I stepped away for tonight but thinking I should install the tierod and front drag link to spindle in the car. Press on the aft drag link with no spring or cap installed, and turn the steering wheel hard right. This will maybe push the ball forward enough to enable me to install the spring and thread the cap.

Thoughts? Is that the trick?

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by 99sh

I'm having a bit of a struggle installing the drag links back on post front end reassembly. I changed out both spindles, replaced one axle which was turned down and put it in teflon ez steer inserts.

With the drag link on my workbench I cannot get the screw end-cap to thread. I replaced the grease seals and have everything clamped down to compress the ball against the seal; however the spring is flush with the end of the draglink. Not even a single thread exposed.

I stepped away for tonight but thinking I should install the tierod and front drag link to spindle in the car. Press on the aft drag link with no spring or cap installed, and turn the steering wheel hard right. This will maybe push the ball forward enough to enable me to install the spring and thread the cap.

Thoughts? Is that the trick?

The easy steer kit replaces all the internal parts. Are you sure you don’t have an old spring, or perhaps an old cup trapped under your new Teflon cup? You might have to remove the grease fitting and push the old cup out from behind.

[99sh]

No old cups from before. I also tried reinstalling my old hardware and had the same issue with no threads exposed.

[nkaminar]

Review the instructions for the EZ steer kit: https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/c...0New%20Von.pdf. Make sure there are no extra parts in your assembly and that the new parts are assembled correctly and not binding somehow. At some point in the production of the Model A the drag link was reversed so check that you have the correct parts in the correct ends.

[ursus]

I struggled with some replacement springs that were a bit too long, especially when compared to the old springs. A fellow advised me to squeeze them down tight in a vice and leave them in the vice for a day or so. Immediately after removal from the vice they were installed, with several threads exposed, and the rest of the assembly was completed successfully. Give it a try.

[99sh]

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Ok, got everything buttoned up. I'm going to give that vice idea a try.

Ended up doing the 'turn the steering wheel' trick so the pitman pushes the ball forward. I used one of my original springs which was a tad shorter and got it to thread.

FYI - without the new grease seals everything fit just fine. That with the new spring just caused interference.

[JoeCB]

Just a ? please. nka mentioned that "in production the drag link was reversed" ... how do you tell one end from the other?
Joe B

[99sh]

Originally Posted by JoeCB

Just a ? please. nka mentioned that "in production the drag link was reversed" ... how do you tell one end from the other?
Joe B

Look at the PDF in post #4. Ford changed the orientation and flipped it 180 at some point in production. One side is deeper where the spring goes in first and the other side has order in reverse.

[JayJay]

Drag link was changed in October 1928. See attached, captured from the RG&JS page 4-5.

BTW, I have both an older version and the new version available if anyone needs either. Good condition, freshly cleaned and painted. PM me if interested.

[Bob Bidonde]

These slides may help you.