Novice Question

[Itchy-Pit]

I have a 33 Pickup. I have a 33 rear axle. I have a B 32 4 Banger. Can I use a Model A tranny or must I use a 33/34 Transmission?

Thank you.

[Kurt in NJ]

you need 32--34 -----I won't say that the "A" trans can't be put in--but it won't be a bolt in thing---you can put later gearsets in the 32-34 case

[Vanspeed]

I would buy a kit from Clings to use a v-8 trans. I did it to my 29 coupe and it was the best thing I have done. I used a 39 trans. Everything was a bolt on.

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by Vanspeed

I would buy a kit from Clings to use a v-8 trans. I did it to my 29 coupe and it was the best thing I have done. I used a 39 trans. Everything was a bolt on.

I can't figure out why someone with a '33 pickup would buy a kit from Clings to use a V8 trans when the correct 4 cylinder trans is readily available and will take the V8 gears including the '39 and up. Am I missing something?

Charlie Stephens

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by Itchy-Pit

I have a 33 Pickup. I have a 33 rear axle. I have a B 32 4 Banger. Can I use a Model A tranny or must I use a 33/34 Transmission?

Thank you.

Don't even think about using a Model A transmission. The correct transmission is readily available and has synchromesh which the Model A does not. The wrong transmission would hurt the value of your truck if you sell it. Be sure your rear axle is from a 4 cylinder, the torque tube/drive shaft for the V8 was a different length. Also remember the '33 has a shorter water pump, a relocated generator support and a shorter front pulley when compared with the 1932.

Charlie Stephens

[Itchy-Pit]

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Let me clarify. I also have 33 Big truck tranny and bell housing. And a regular Model A transmission. Or as you said find a stock 33-34 transmission. Thanks

[Itchy-Pit]

Friend has several flatheads but he does not know condition. All stored indoors. A 1936, Post war 59AB and 8A. From your comment Charlie - I should ID the rearend and tranny in the pickup first then go from there. I mentioned the Banger because it's completely rebuilt with adjustable valves.

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by Itchy-Pit

Friend has several flatheads but he does not know condition. All stored indoors. A 1936, Post war 59AB and 8A. From your comment Charlie - I should ID the rearend and tranny in the pickup first then go from there. I mentioned the Banger because it's completely rebuilt with adjustable valves.

Look at the tranny in the pick up. If it has a hump to clear the starter it is a 4 cylinder transmission. This hump for the starter was in the same location on the flywheel housing on a model A. If there is no hump it is for a V8. Ignore the broken piece at the bottom of my V8 trans. There is a good chance the rear end matches the transmission relative to being 4 or 8. I also forgot to mention that the flywheel housing is different from '32 to '33 but is relatively easy to find. How about some pictures?

Charlie Stephens

[Itchy-Pit]

Thanks Charlie. Big help. Yup it's a V8 tranny. I do have Big Truck bell housings that have the hump - would they work to adapt one or the other? Do you have a personal email? I can send you pictures.

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by Itchy-Pit

Thanks Charlie. Big help. Yup it's a V8 tranny. I do have Big Truck bell housings that have the hump - would they work to adapt one or the other? Do you have a personal email? I can send you pictures.

The "big" truck (BB) transmission is non synchro so it is probably not the way you want to go. I doubt the bell housing from the big truck would be of any use but I am not that familiar with them. You might want to take a look at your friend's '36 and 59AB as possibilities.

Charlie Stephens

[Charlie Stephens]

Itchy-Pit,

If you decide to go with the 1932 4 cylinder engine you have you will need to look for the following (depending upon how close to original you want to be).

Water pump (’33 is shorter)
Crankshaft pulley (’33 is shorter)
Timing gear cover (mounts the generator further back)
Motor mount (’33 is wider)
Exhaust system back to muffler
Radiator (or have your V8 radiator modified)
Radiator support rods (check this, they may be different 4 to 8, they were in ’32)
Engine steady rods (I assume they were different 4 to 8 but check)
Hubcaps
Starter (if your existing ’32 starter is designed to be used with a pull cable)
Transmission (if your gears are good you can put them into a 4 cyl case)
Flywheel housing (’32 and ’33 are different)
Choke (my guess is that the 4 cylinder uses a cable like the ’32)
Accelerator linkage (different 4 to 8)
Engine splash pans
Relocate gas line from right to left side of truck)
Torque tube and drive shaft (or complete rear end)
You need to accept the fact that your serial number starts with “18” which means V8
Exhaust manifold (the A might work with longer exhaust pipe)

Almost enough to make you want to stay with a V8. If you sell the truck it will be worth more as a V8. My choice would be a ’33, a 1936 (with insert bearings, some had babbet), a 1937-38 21 stud and 38-48 24 stud engine in that order. Any flathead (except the V8 60 which you don’t want anyway) will bolt up to the transmission you currently have in the truck. As time went on the transmissions improved slightly with the best being in 1939. The later gears will go into most cases but sometimes it takes a little work to get them into the earlier cases. The later cases will also take a larger clutch if that is important. The latest cases had the number “78” cast into them and unless you are doing a total restoration you are better off with that case. The 1949 and up engines will require a flywheel housing from a truck (or maybe a Mercury?) to bolt up to the earlier transmission.

One final thought. Be sure to get the truck registered (and the number on the frame matches the registration) before you start working on it. Once it is registered you can put it into a non operational (NON OP) status with the DMV and there will not be any yearly fees. The early registration is important since you want the truck at its lowest value for tax purposes and you want to be sure the truck is really yours and someone else will not try to claim it.

Charlie Stephens