newly done B-engine oiling bad.

[nuwala]

I've restored a B-Engine during the recent three month:
- honed to 0.100,
- new pistons and rings,
- new valves and adjustable tappets,
- some babbits done,
- bearing clearance adjusted,
- oil pressure holes cleaned well.
Today and I fired up the engine. It took two turns of the crank and the engine idled well.

Oil started dropping out of that small hole in the fly wheel housing after about one minute of idling. Another minute of idling and it became a oil stream filling up a quart within a minute. Fine, the B-engine has oil pressured crank and cam bearings.

So far I've done A - Engines without problems.
This is my first B-Engine. What could I have missed installing? Are there rear gaskets for the cam towards the fly wheel housing? Is there a gasket for the rear side of the crank?

How to find out and repair without pulling the engine again?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Did you put a gasket between the block and flywheel housing?

Do you have the drain tube installed on the rear main cap?

[Jim Brierley]

Also, oil can leak from between the block and the cap. Check and seal everything back there.

[Bob C]

This should be between the block and flywheel housing.

Bob

[nuwala]

Yes, there is a gasket between block and flywheel housing. When thinking about it, it can't be the cam...The oil is leaking from inside the flywheel housing. The oil would rather come from the gap between block and flywheel housing if the cam would leak...

It looks more like the crankshaft. The drain tube is installed and open.
If I have installed a rear main cap oil seal - I don't really know. I have installed everything what came with the block...

[nuwala]

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Just went through the catalogues.

There is article B6335, called rear main oil seal. Looks like this is the standard solution.
In addition there is a an improved oil seal with B6335X, B6336BMOD and B6337. How difficult is this to be installed?

[Big hammer]

Check your oil fill tube, and the cap. Caps can be pushed down to far and not let the crankcase breath.

[nuwala]

Attached a picture from the engine when it was restored. It looks like the rear main oil seal is there. Hope this is installed right?

[nuwala]

Thanks, the pipe is certainly small considering the pressurised bearing. Will change the pipe. Hope that's the cause.

[George Miller]

Along with what Forever4 said make sure when you screw the new pipe in, it does not block the oil path. I like to pull the little soft plug out of the cap and check. I have found babbitt and trash in there. I run a drill in there to make sure it is open,most are not. Some times the new pipe goes in to far.

[700rpm]

I'm not as versed in engine rebuilds as George and Vince, but I think that rope seal on the main should be cork. At least, that's what I've always used on my A engines.

[James Rogers]

Vince's last picture shows the rear cap and the way the grooves are cut. If yours are not cut exactly like this it will leak. The grooves are cut to the front of the cap so the positive pressure can escape back into the pan and NOT out the rear of the cap and into the flywheel housing. Many rebuilders cut the groove like the Model A and cause the engine to leak.

Also, the tube in the rear cap should be 3/8" and the thread is 3/8-32.

[larrys40]

I'll bet with Vince and James that his cap/grooves and tube are the issues. The micky mouse tube is probably too far in the cap and might pass air but won't drain easily for the amount of oil coming out.

It looks like the #3 cylinder has a sleeve all the way down as well. and from the color of the Babbitt it wasn't redone??

best of luck
Larry Shepard

[nuwala]

The bearing bracket and the babbit lock fine to me.
But I've found a gap at the transmission end of the bearing bracket. I'ts just a 0.002", but maybe the oil is pressed out through this gap?

[nuwala]

The outer oil thrower ring looks small.
Do I maybe miss a larger oil thrower ring?

[colin1928]

The Rear seal the pot metal or aluminium part is wrong the part you have is after market and was meant to have asbestos wiper in it they never really worked well replace it with a standard seal

[nuwala]

Thanks. Apologies for asking, still improving my car english....

The shape of my current aluminum part in the block seems to match the shape of the bearing bracket. The edges match perfectily when putting on top of each other. What change would it make when changing the aluminium part to the article no. "1932-34 Rear Main Oil Seal B-6335"?

Is there an option to place an additional oil slinger with another one with larger circumfence?