Flathead oil smoke right exhaust / help

[guy1unico]

Hello
I've been battling a oil smoke blow by on the passenger side exhaust for a good 8 months. It is getting me down.
Here are my motor specs.
Motor rebuilt totally in 2011 no problems until end of 2014.
49 - 53 Ford with 3 3/8" bore and Merc crank
327 chevy distributor
3 carb intake running only 1 .. 48 Stromberg carb in center
Plugs are new Champ D 16
Vacum is steady at 20...checked from the intake
We listed for any air leaks.... with a rubber hose screwed into a plug hole and compressed air the other hose was in the oil inlet where we listened (No air bypass sound)

Compression check
front
L R
100 70
100 110
80 100
110 120
_____________________________
miles since rebuilt in 2011
3,000
Added 1 quart Marvelous Mystery oil to 4 quarts Valv. VR 150 20 w 50
_____________________________________________
Heavy blue smoke occurs every time I gun the motor in neutral, accelerate from a stop sign or enter the highway. The smoke will go away after the initial acceleration.
__________________________________________________ _______
Any ideas of what I can do to totally keep my motor from smoking out of the right side exhaust?
left side (driver's seems to be fine).

Thank you,
Guy

[alanwoodieman]

look at the right side plugs. is one or more covered in oil residue? blue smoke is definitely oil, were the seals installed on the intake valve guides? round or "square: type? I would be concerned about the low compressions numbers, especially since this is a newly rebuilt engine 70 lbs and 80 lbs would indicate bad rings or out of adjustment valves, burned or stuck valve. the compression is leaking off somewhere, was the car stored for an extended period of time? rings could have stuck, did it overheat?

[WestCoast]

usually if blue smoke goes away after driving awhile its burning oil that is coming down the valve guides, the intake ones, there wore, judging by the compression on number 1 on passenger side it either a burnt, stuck valve, or worn ,stuck or broken rings, it might help to drizzle some marvel mystery oil down the carb with the engine running at1200 rpm, a fast idle, put 4 oz of it in every 10 gallons of gas, night take several 100 miles of driving before it starts to help

[Ronnie]

I would do a leak down test.

R

[guy1unico]

I will try the drizzle cure...I've already done that with water and Sea Foam was no help.

My mechanic said there is no way oil can run up a valve ...not enough compression in the chamber of a flathead.

Thank you for the feedback I sure hope I can get this handled.

[WestCoast]

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oil doesn't have to run up an intake valve, it will be drawn into the engine on the intake stroke if the guide is worn, how old is your mechanic? lol

[VeryTangled]

Originally Posted by Ronnie

I would do a leak down test.

R

X2

I am totally not an engine guy, but...

If it leaks down the first try, use a tablespoon or two of oil in the plug hole and try again. The idea is if the compression is going through the rings, it would be sealed by the oil you add and hold pressure better after the oil. If it still leaks down after the oil, it leans towards the valves as being the leak source. Please, feel free to confirm this info before you rely on it before teardown.

[guy1unico]

He is 72 and flatheads are not really his thing.

WestCoast
Basically I need to pull the head off the right side and remove the valve under the spark plug that is always wet around the threads (2nd one in on passenger side). Then should I replace the valve guide or ...I just bought new oil seals from Speedway. Do you think I should put MMO in gas tank and drizzle down the carb for several times before taking road trips...and before removing the head?

[JSeery]

You may currently only have smoke coming from one cylinder, but you have two cylinders showing low compression. Need to figure out what is going on. You don't want to teardown one side and replace parts just to have to turn around and do it again in a month or so.

[Mike in AZ]

what kind of break in did you do with the engine?...Mike

[WestCoast]

I would replace the guide and rubber seal on the ones you can see are oil soaked, mmo will only work on stuck piston rings, not worn out or broken rings

[Tony, NY]

Originally Posted by alanwoodieman

look at the right side plugs. is one or more covered in oil residue? blue smoke is definitely oil, were the seals installed on the intake valve guides? round or "square: type? I would be concerned about the low compressions numbers, especially since this is a newly rebuilt engine 70 lbs and 80 lbs would indicate bad rings or out of adjustment valves, burned or stuck valve. the compression is leaking off somewhere, was the car stored for an extended period of time? rings could have stuck, did it overheat?

Is there a preference for round or square seals?

[WestCoast]

round seals have a less chance of shearing off the edge of the square seals when being installed

[Ross F-1]

That oil mix (20% MMO with 20w50) strikes me as strange. Have you tried running 10w30 without any MMO? On a fresh rebuild I don't see any benefit to MMO in the oil.

[WestCoast]

RossF1, your right, mmo wont do any thing good or bad to a fresh rebuild, it does its job on older engines that have an engine part sticking problem, rings sticking in pistons and valves sticking in the guides