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#1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Allen, TX
Posts: 11
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Back in the 60's when I was a kid, dad had me drilling on the inside of the crankshaft pulley on this 1930 a-model sports coupe. I think he thought the crank was threaded and we could use a back-out tool but metal was too hard and I never made much progress. Now that I have the A-model and dad is passed, I'm researching the handcrank. It doesn't look threaded. Will I be able to punch out the handcrank remnants if I can get the pulley off? After additional review, it appears to be inside of the crankshaft itself? How to get it out so I can restore the handcrank? If I continue to drill, what type of bit material will penetrate? Will I need a horizonal press to apply enough pressure?
Last edited by pzxzqg; 10-30-2015 at 06:06 PM. |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Land of Lincoln
Posts: 3,430
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Wecome to the ford barn! Yes the crank ratchet is threaded into the end of the crankshaft!
The pulley goes over the end of the crankshaft and the ratchet holds it to the crankshaft ! The threaded part is in the crankshaft! If you miss it up more you will be replacing the crankshaft!!! I thinking you might get a welder to weld a bolt and then maybe turn the threaded part out. Maybe others will have better ideas! Good luck ! |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Posts: 6,647
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THAT doesn't look good. You may have to find someone in your area that has a EDM Metal Disintegration Service. They will be able to remove it without damage to the crank. http://www.brokentap.com/services.html
But if it has been sitting since the 60's I think the engine may need more than a tune up... ![]() |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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I agree with Tbird on how it got broken. You could try a left hand drill bit. Another thing I might try with the crank out of the engine is to weld a pipe to the broken bolt end. Have the outside diameter of the pipe about the same as the bolt thread. Turn up the heat and fill the pipe with weld and let it cool. The use a vice grip on the short pipe to see if it will unscrew.
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#5 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Allen, TX
Posts: 11
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Dad had the engine running without problems in the 60's with crank in existing condition. Engine turns over easily now either by hand on belt or starter. Head cracked at some point but oil drained and looks clean. I'm replacing head with a Synder 5.5:1 and premium gasket. Fuel tank clean. I'm rebuilding carb and distributor. If it's too difficult I'll simply leave the crank as is and not risk screwing it up. It's doesn't sound like it will help removing the pulley. Craftsman does make a horizontal press and carbine or diamond tipped bits are available but if I can't collapse the handcrank enough to remove it safely ... I'm not sure it's worth removing the engine to extract it. I've heard of the welding trick on broken studs, it might be worth a try. Appreciate your experience and advice.
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#6 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Auburn Washington
Posts: 2,662
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at this point there is no need to pull the pulley or crank shaft out. hopefully when you drilled on it before, you drilled it the center. if so you might be able to pull it off. first drill a 1/4" pilot hole you will know when you go through the end of the stud. now use a 3/8" drill. then try an easy out. as long as the threads of the bolt did NOT bottom out it should come out.
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#8 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Allen, TX
Posts: 11
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As a 10 year old I drilled after school for weeks and didn't make much progress. You're right, I should backoff to a 1/4 bit and then increase to a 3/8 but I'm going to need a harder bit or attach a horizontal press to apply more pressure. wish I knew how far the handcrank extended into the shaft so not to do more damage. Hopefully a 3/8 is enough. All I need to do is break the back-off tool in the shaft.
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#9 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Allen, TX
Posts: 11
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Sounds like an MDM is the way to go if I can find a machine shop in Dallas ... one would think Dallas is big enough to warrant one. I'm looking ... and will make some calls.
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#10 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Allen, TX
Posts: 11
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I agree one has to think about how it happened to begin with and it may have been someone trying to break free this motor. I wish Dad were still around to enlighten me. Dad did do a complete restoral from the chassis up and had it running well albeit in the 60's ... so one would think whatever problem caused the handcrank to break off is not part of the problem now. Any idea the diameter of the crank and how deep the broken crank goes into the shaft?
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Queensland Australia
Posts: 640
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I have a number of crank ratchet bolts an the threaded section measures differently on each of them. The longest threaded section is 1.1 inches and the shortest is .8 of an inch. I have measured the depth of the threaded hole in a crank shaft it measured 1.7 inches. So I suggest you drill away, you will know when you have broken thru and there is little or no chance of doing any damage to the crank shaft as there will be a cavity of at least .5 of an inch.
When you break thru I suggest that you apply some release agent inside the cavity and allow to soak overnight. Trust this helps. Good luck
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#12 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Allen, TX
Posts: 11
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Big help to know the size and depth of the threaded bolt. I'm going to backoff to a 1/4" bit and try to get it well centered. Question now is whether to use a carbide bit (which I think I was using in the 60's to no available) or go with a diamond tipped. At that point a carbide 3/8" may do the trick. Left hand bit is a good thought too ... could get lucky (like my golf game). Thanks for the advice.
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#13 |
Senior Member
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I can't add to the advice already given but Welcome to the barn!
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What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II |
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 214
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Pull the crank and take it to your local machine shop. The shop can set the crank up in a lathe and with precision, drill out the broken off ratchet nut. An easy job for a good shop.
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 426
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Use the electric starter.
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Bay City Michigan
Posts: 1,050
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couple of things put oil on the area and let it sit for a day. use a chisel to cut a ledge on the inside diameter and then use a punch to drive the piece rotationally. tedious but usually works after 20 min and six ledges my dad could always get it to go within a few. if you have a dremel cut a slot to turn it with a large screw driver if you can get it in at the right angle. the chisel trick is a industrial machine repair trick.
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#17 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: now Kuna, Idaho
Posts: 3,818
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#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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To get the hole centered you can use a diamond bit in a Dremel and grind towards the center, then start with a 1/8" bit and increase the size. I would use left hand bits because you might get lucky and spin it out. It doesn't appear to be rusty, and since it didn't bottom out, it might not be too tight. A left hand bit or an easy out might work, but don't force it. If it doesn't come, then it's off to the machine shop.
I'd try the welded nut or short pipe first, as I've had good luck with that method. |
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#19 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Allen, TX
Posts: 11
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After trying several cobalt bits, I finally resorted to carbide. That was the only bit I made any progress with on a hand drill. But after destroying 3 carbide bits I finally made it thru tonight, got my backout tool in there and after a few good whacks and prayers that I wouldn't break the back-out tool off ... damn thing finally backed out. To think that I started working on this back in the 60's ... wish my dad was still around to tell him the job is finally done. Thanks for telling me the depth of the threads and gap to the crank. Doubt I would have had the confidence to keep drilling without this information.
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#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Land of Lincoln
Posts: 3,430
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Glade it came out, I think you were lucky! Dad must have been watching over you.
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