Red's oil filter conversion

[Mark's 37]

Anyone using Red's oil filter conversion? Looks like a fairly straight forward arrangement.

[AnthonyG]

Couldn't find on their site. Do you have an Internet site we could check and see it?

[Mark's 37]

Originally Posted by AnthonyG

Couldn't find on their site. Do you have an Internet site we could check and see it?

Tony, here is the link for the 21 stud unit, there are more for the 24 and French versions.

http://reds-headers.net/index.php?ma...roducts_id=304

This is a link to the plans that need to be purchased separately but you can click on the image to magnify it.

http://reds-headers.net/index.php?ma...roducts_id=261

[Mike in AZ]

.and isn't that the 95% filtration??....where you have to drill the holes, etc at rear of engine?...Mike

[AnthonyG]

Mark, thx for the site info. Are you rebuilding or building new?

[AnthonyG]

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Mike, it is. See in info on plans he wants $20 for, "Requires machine work (block must be bare)"

[Mark's 37]

Originally Posted by AnthonyG

Mark, thx for the site info. Are you rebuilding or building new?

Tony, bought a complete unassembled rebuilt 37 221.

[AnthonyG]

Perfect situation for this kit. Looks like a nice setup. His plan drwg. is a bit primitive. Better online schematics see @,
https://www.google.com/search?q=flat...VWjSiMh2UaM%3A

[Mark's 37]

Thanks Tony, I bookmarked that site for later use.

[oldford2]

Seems like a lot of time and $$ to accomplish what 1000 mile oil changes will do ($20). Keep it simple. If you only drive 1000 miles a year change it twice a year. JMO
John

[JWL]

I think you are looking at 2 different methods for oil direction. The system Red designed requires an added line inside the bell housing area, behind the flywheel. I have only seen one engine done in that way. When the engine was brought to me there was a problem with the added line contacting the flywheel. I was able to, eventually, make a line which cleared the flywheel. The Red's system is a 100% filtration design but with more work required than the "normal" 90% system.

[Mark's 37]

Originally Posted by JWL

I think you are looking at 2 different methods for oil direction. The system Red designed requires an added line inside the bell housing area, behind the flywheel. I have only seen one engine done in that way. When the engine was brought to me there was a problem with the added line contacting the flywheel. I was able to, eventually, make a line which cleared the flywheel. The Red's system is a 100% filtration design but with more work required than the "normal" 90% system.

Thanks for the clarification. Red's drawing needs a little tuning. I will pass on the transfer tube behind the flywheel conversion and look at using the one Tony posted.

[BillM]

Also see http://www.flatheadspeedandmachine.c...sion-kits.html

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by Mark's 37

Anyone using Red's oil filter conversion? Looks like a fairly straight forward arrangement.

I bought the plans and they were obviously for a 49-53 engine block - and do not work for a 59AB. Due to the lack of an integral bell-housing on a 49-53 engine, you can get a drill-tap into the back of the block area and make the modifications for the little hard-line that is used to feed the rear main - what is shown in the drawings is not possible on a 32-48 block.

RE: Here is the kit mentioned up above . . . on a 42 Block:

I went ahead and used the method where the oil pump is modified to send the oil out the pan (yes, you have to drill and put a fitting in the pan) and then it goes through the full-flow oil filter and then into the rear top of the block - through the factory oil-line holes. I also drilled out the upper hole and tapped it for 3/8" NPT - to enable a bit more flow.

This setup is not quite as stock looking as Red's hidden line version (due to oil-pan line).

Also, I cringe when I see other setups referred to as "95% filtration" (which I think is optimistic) - I'd call those setups more like 66% (two out of three mains have clean oil - the rear does not).

Lastly, if you are going full-flow, you have to put the filter someplace - so I just modified an original Fram setup and converted it to full-flow (filter is upside down in the canister - and the filter has anti-drainback valves).

Here are some pictures - with my highly modified Fram filter. Yes, the braided lines are ugly - will be replacing them with 1/2" hard lines . . . which I need to have custom made . . . as they need to be mandrel bent.

2015-07-04 13.16.22 copy.jpg

2015-07-09 01.23.18 copy.jpg

2015-07-09 22.30.27 copy.jpg

2015-07-22 21.01.03 copy.jpg

If you need any more details, just drop me a PM - be happy to share them.

B&S

[flat 39]

I did the Reds Headers on 8ba engine. It seams to work fine. If I do another flathead, I will do the 95% filtration route.

[JSeery]

The 90 or 95% (take you pick on what to call it) is far simpler to install.

[AnthonyG]

Hi again Mark, my comments in post 8 were in conjunction with making the modification / machining to convert to full (100% ) flow, that's why I asked if you disassembled presently allowing all the mods / machining to be completed for the full flow. I agree with those who indicate "no filter conversion" is better than the less than 100% full flow. Changing the oil every 500 or 1000 miles ( which for most of us is only once or a couple times a year ) will keep the engine in a better lubricated state than the 90% setup.

[Bored&Stroked]

Some thoughts: If there is absolutely no crud anywhere in the block and oiling system (and none ever gets into it) - I'm sure that just changing the oil regularly is good enough.

What I always worry about is some sort of crap getting into my bearings - so I sure like to have filtered oil - is worth the trouble to me.

Now I know that somebody is going to say "how the heck can a piece of crap get into the system?? - that shouldn't happen." I agree and I am quite the perfectionist when it comes to block prep, cleaning . . . cleaning . . . cleaning upon assembly, etc..

BUT - things happen and sometimes it can be due to the failure of a component or some piece of casting flash (coming from inside the engine) . . . one never knows.

If I wasn't going 100% filtered full-flow, I probably wouldn't run any filter at all - just change the oil once or twice a year and be done with it.

[Mark's 37]

Originally Posted by AnthonyG

Hi again Mark, my comments in post 8 were in conjunction with making the modification / machining to convert to full (100% ) flow, that's why I asked if you disassembled presently allowing all the mods / machining to be completed for the full flow. I agree with those who indicate "no filter conversion" is better than the less than 100% full flow. Changing the oil every 500 or 1000 miles ( which for most of us is only once or a couple times a year ) will keep the engine in a better lubricated state than the 90% setup.

I agree that "90%" isn't the best choice. Getting to 100% means significant modifications and creates "appearance" problems. Having a full-flow filter during engine break-in is my concern but have to decide whether to forgo the filter altogether. With careful block prep and stock flatheads having pretty light valve spring pressures may be the way to go. Thanks.

[white64]

Been trying to contact Red's for the past several days... I had called them about three weeks ago and was told they had plain steel exhaust for a '40 from header to tail pipe... but now no one answers the phone and I get a "message gh35" whatever the hell that means! Does anyone know what's going on there?