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#1 |
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: East Central Iowa
Posts: 1,275
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Going to split the rear axles to have a look at the condition of the spider gears.
I have read that they should go back in the same position as they were, assuming that they still look good. What is a good method of doing this? Larry |
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#2 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 6,410
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I have stopped worrying about the the spider and gears but do mark the orientation of the case half's so they go back together in the same place. The case that hold the spider and gears my be what you are thinking.
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#3 |
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Location: East Central Iowa
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Thank you. It's obvious I don't know a whole lot about spider gears.
How do you "mark the orientation of the case halves"? Don't the spiders come off their posts? Wouldn't I want to mark each spider to the original post? Help! Larry |
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#4 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Portland OR
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Unless there has been some uncommon wear, all the gears should have the same wear. Except for where the axles rub on the center of the spider, they are tough of nails (the good ones
![]() Tom Endy's how to do is a great guide. The only change I have made is installing the upper drive shaft sleeve for the bearing, I tap mine in using a socket, no wire. That may have been changed in the update. I have done about 10 rear ends and that was my go to to learn. ![]() http://www.santaanitaas.org/technica...tech-articles/ |
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#5 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,462
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All I do is mark the position of the carrier halves relative to each other, mark the position of the spider relative to carrier, then disassemble and keep the spider gears in position on their respective spokes of the spider. Mom said, dance with the one that brought you!
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#6 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
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#7 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks County, PA
Posts: 11,454
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you might find that the carrier halves are already dimpled (marked) for reassembly..
if not just ctr punch them as tom says.. i also use a numbered punch set on occasion for marking things. i never worried about putting them back in the same spots Last edited by Mitch//pa; 07-29-2015 at 06:15 AM. |
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#8 |
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Location: East Central Iowa
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Thanks Mitch..
Then you don't think that returning the spiders to their original locations is important? Wish I knew more about them.. Larry |
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#9 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Gothenburg Nebraska Just off I-80
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I have never payed attention to their orientation, but do make sure if they need changing to do so in sets. If one looks worn or has damage discard all three and replace with another set. I have not ran onto this yet, but there is a first time for everything. While we are on this subject does anyone know if there are any .005 cup shaped shims on the market to take up the wear to the inside of the carrier where the spider gears wear? Have used flat narrow shims in the past, but I have NOS Ford shims for the later banjo rearends (35-48). Rod
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#10 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Sugar Land, TX
Posts: 4,420
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Why do you want to check the spyders? They get very little wear and only when you turn!
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#11 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks County, PA
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#12 |
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Meridian, ID
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My spider gears were shot. I suspect my model A had been used to run a saw or something at one time because normally the spider gears only turn when you're going around a corner (Rear wheels are spinning at different rates).
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#13 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks County, PA
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i used to do corner hole shots when i was a kid
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Temecula, CA
Posts: 4,251
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Spider gears only turn when going around corners, most of the time they rotate as a unit. Slop in them when turning the wheels is normal. You may be wasting time and energy?
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#15 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 3,168
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![]() Quote:
My belief also. There seems to be a lot of looseness in the assembly. The only concern I ever have about the spider gears is if the three legged shafts are scored or the assembly sat in water and is rusted beyond use. I am never concerned about orientation, and I would never buy new ones, too many used serviceable ones around for little or no cost. Tom Endy |
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#16 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: now Kuna, Idaho
Posts: 3,818
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During the "it's just an old car" phase of an A's life, it may have suffered a little abuse. It was the go-to car in the winter and spring mud, one wheel spinning madly to get out of a drift or a mud hole. Result: worn spiders!
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#17 |
Senior Member
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How are you going to learn unless you try? We will stand by to help with any problems.
Look up Tom Endy's papers on how to rebuild the rear end.
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#18 |
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: East Central Iowa
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Learned some things today. Thank you!
Now, when I look into the assembled area where the spiders are, I think I see some pretty nice gears. So, what is a good way to clean and lube them in place? Larry |
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#19 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 3,168
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![]() Quote:
Clean them in lacquer thinner. A concern should be the condition of the carrier halves. First, look at the two mounting hubs. The old bearings are often found spun on the hubs, which means a mechanic of yesteryear did not set the carrier preload and locked the bearings up. Henry's 40 horses broke them loose, but they spun the hubs. The bearings should mount with an interference press fit. If they don't you need to have them knurled, or find a better carrier. Second, look at the inside of the carrier where the back side of each spider gear rubs. You will usually find some wear there, but if it is deep, like 1\16", the carrier should be replaced. The reason for marking the carrier halves before taking them apart is so that you can put it back together with the wear patterns matching. Tom Endy |
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#20 |
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: East Central Iowa
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Great information, Guys!
Being the curious person I am. I think I'll try to open this thing up and see what I've got. I'll certainly ask questions.. Larry |
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