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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 253
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I'm intending to rebuild the carb, it is marked 7rt, just a stock 2 barrel
Could someone tell me correct procedure for checking float height Truck over fuels when starting and has erratic tickover Thanks Ian |
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#2 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Florida and Penna.
Posts: 4,471
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I don't know the setting but make sure the needle valve is in tight and lap in the seat so the valve seals. I guess they use the needle type valve, what ever type it needs to seal good. G.M.
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,595
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Over fuels? What does that mean?
Are you saying it's running rich? Or is fuel pissing out of the carb? Martin. |
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#4 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: pittsfield, MA
Posts: 2,086
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![]() ![]() I use 1 7/16 (1.437) John |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 253
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Do the rebuild kits come with that measuring tool?
Ian |
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#6 |
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Join Date: Jul 2010
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Port St Lucie Florida
Posts: 398
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I rebuilt my Holley 94 with kit #601 from Daytona Parts Co and it included a small measure strip . It also included a "Daytona Float Valve designed to prevent flooding (my problem) and it works great plus improves performance .
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#8 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: pittsfield, MA
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Just remember: rebuilding a carburetor involves more than just buying a kit and installing it. It must be thoroughly cleaned and all the many internal passages cleaned and blown out, the correct size power valve must be properly seated, the throttle shaft checked for wear, the accelerator pump check valve cleaned, and then you can start the re-assembly. Anything less and you might back to square one. Better to send it to a rebuilder like CharlieNY or others on the Barn. JMO
John |
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#9 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Napier, New Zealand
Posts: 2,001
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Also most kits have a neoprene accelerator pump seal on them. The US made leather ones are way superior.
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 7,283
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Not just superior... Don't even think about using anything but leather.
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Alan |
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#11 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Oxford New Zealand
Posts: 177
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To see what is happening when the engine is running i soldered a tight right angle copper bend into a bored out float chamber plug and then fitted a short length of clear plastic hose.I f the float level is doing strange things when running this will tell you.There was, I think, a tool for doing this fitted with a glass tube. Geoff
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#12 |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: SF Bay Area
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Geoff, Good idea. Yes, there were sight glasses for both Stromberg and Ford carburetors, however, a troublesome inaccuracy was reported due to airflow over the vented end. I'd think a remedy might be to jam a porous sponge ball down over the vent to diffuse the effect of the wind.
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Alan |
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#13 |
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 253
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The macs kit is available over here, any good?
My carb looks to be in pretty good shape, spindles nice and tight and all parts move freely. Pretty sure my issue is to do with the needle valve and float level Ian |
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#14 |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 7,283
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Ian, Many of the complaints we've heard here are about Macs parts and service. I would definitely not deal with Macs for carburetor kits. Best to stick with the suppliers known to and recommended regularly by the more experienced members of this forum. A couple of those have been mentioned here in this thread. You'll need the basic kit, which will include gasket, power valve, and accelerator pump leather. Some will include a new inlet valve. Check yours, and get one if needed. They don't really wear out, so they are good unless mishandled. Just be sure it is all metal, not fiber or rubber.
The setting of the float level is very important, and is as simple as falling off a log. The diagram shown above is straight out of Ford service literature, and shows the measurement from gasket surface of bowl cover to top of float (inverted), while float is at rest holding the needle valve closed. Most guys make their own gage out of beer can aluminum, having bottom edge long enough to span across to the opposite side of the gasket surface. Make this dimension to be 1 11/32", which is halfway between the two decimal dimensions given in the diagram. The adjustment is made to the float arm by bending it up or down. Measure at both outer ends of the float to ensure that it is setting level. There are other things to do in rebuilding a carb, I'm only addressing your question regarding needle and float. One more tip regarding the float level gage... Be sure to use the portion of the beer can that clearly identifies that brand of beer you proudly chug.
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#15 |
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 253
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The kit from macs and drakes looks much the same?
Where should I buy one from? I think I'll strip it down and clean it and see what's what Ian |
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#16 |
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,595
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Ian, it is likely the same,
Daytona do carb and fuel pump stuff, there stuff is good by all accounts. Just Google Daytona fuel or some such, they come highly recommended. I'm gonna have to start getting stuff from them, my good stuff is running out. I've been getting by on the Johnny cheap kits, like the ones you mentioned and add stuff from my stock. The accelerator pumps in the cheap kits are normally wrong (there actually for a Holley 885) and not leather, so pointless. I only use the gaskets from them kits, rest of it is mostly junk, some times they come with a useable power valve, mostly that is junk too. First thing I'd do is check the power valve. Does the carb empty when left for a day or two? Takes some cranking to get him to fire? Broken record here, when you say "over fuelling" what do you meen? Is it really rich? Is there gas pissing out? How have you come to the conclusion the float is to high? Tryin to help. Martin. |
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#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,595
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Forgot to put this bit in,
Really quite common on a 94 is the power valve is loose, May just need nipping up. If it's loose or leaking, it dribbles gas down into the inlet manifold when engine is off. When you go to start it, it goes rich like the choke is out. Also rough idle, as its rich due to the dribble. Quick and cheap to see, if your careful the gasket will be ok to reuse. Report your findings. Martin. |
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#18 |
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 253
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That's pretty much my symptoms!
I need a new base gasket, it had 2 fitted when I took it off. It had been standing about a week when I took it off and the fuel bowl was empty It all looks pretty good inside. Martin, who keeps good parts over here? Ian |
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#19 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,595
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Try Bob Froch, lots of stuff including NOS and lots of knowledge, very nice bloke and a good friend.
Also Belcher engineering, Both over here, don't know how to do the link thing, either will come up on Google. Don't try to contact Bob via the innernet, use phone. And normally me, but like I said my good stuff is real low at the mo, got a pile of carbs to go through to make up an order. Martin. |
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#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 253
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I was at bobs on Thursday,he fitted my kingpins.
He looked at the carb and reckoned it was a float issue, he gave me a nos needle. We agreed I should go to belcher and get a complete kit as bob didn't have all the bits. Went to belcher to find the kit they had on Tuesday had been sold! Got some plugs and gearbox oil and came home! All of belchers new stuff comes from macs tho and that doesn't seem to be recommended? Ian |
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