Manifold restoration

[Vanspeed]

Ok so I have tried all the aluminum cleaners, mag wheel, etc.

What can I do to make this look original? Bead blast? Don't want to paint it.

[fordor41]

Don't thing of the spices on the range will work! Probably sand with progressively finer paper until pits are gone and polish with compound and buffer wheel. Cast alum usually has a "grain" and doesn't polish like solid alum, as in billet.

[JSeery]

I would blast it.

[Kpar]

I used Paint stripper on mine. Left it for 30min and scrubbed off with scotch guard.
Worked for me.
Kpar

[Kahuna]

I would also blast it, then spray clear lacquer on it.

[big job]

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We glass bead them and if you want to clear it I suggest you do some research
I find some clear coats dry to a cloudy or get a tinted shade.
We glass bead carbs , great job really gets rid of that white stuff...sam

[JM 35 Sedan]

I would also suggest glass beading, and then spray paint with Aluma Blast. This will keep it looking like it just came out of the bead blaster for years.
I have in the past used the various different clear coat paints that are available in rattle cans, from many different sources, and it has always caused the bead blast finish to turn a dull gray color as other folks have already mentioned.

[rustynutz]

Soda blast should clean that up to the original cast look.

[Vanspeed]

Thanks guys, I will try blasting it and let you know how it comes out.

[Kurt in NJ]

remember that the abrasive blast media is very hard to get out of the internal passages----untill the gas/air mixture moves through the manifold, then it will lap the rings and cylinders----I have seen the results, about the same as pouring sand down the intake

[FrankWest]

Try steel wire brush on drill to polish. Large brush on drill for large areas, use small dremal wire brushes for small areas, crevices. No residue and nice semi- polished finish, if that is what you want..Maybe too shinny for original?

[34PKUP]

Originally Posted by FrankWest

Try steel wire brush on drill to polish. Large brush on drill for large areas, use small dremal wire brushes for small areas, crevices. No residue and nice semi- polished finish, if that is what you want..Maybe too shinny for original?

Probably the worst thing you can do if looking for 'original' as cast finish.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by 34PKUP

Probably the worst thing you can do if looking for 'original' as cast finish.

Really? I always thought it gave it a antiqued patina. I guess you are the expert!

[Kube]

Originally Posted by big job

We glass bead them and if you want to clear it I suggest you do some research
I find some clear coats dry to a cloudy or get a tinted shade.
We glass bead carbs , great job really gets rid of that white stuff...sam

Yes, yes, yes. Glass beading is the only way in my opinion. Clear coat is optional but does help maintain that "new " appearance. Eastwood sells a clear that holds up well to heat. I have used it and it does as advertised.

[JSeery]

Wire brush (really about any type of brush) will leave marks on aluminum. If you want to retain the "cast" appearance do not brush it!

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by FrankWest

Really? I always thought it gave it a antiqued patina. I guess you are the expert!

Yes, wire brushing aluminum is a finish that some manufactures use in production, but it would be difficult to do on the irregular surfaces on the outside of an intake manifold, plus it would not look like it did when Henry built it, IMO.
By glass beading the outer surfaces (not on the bottom or inside the two venturi openings on top where the carb mounts) and then spray painting the outer sufaces with Aluma Blast, you will have a finish that looks very much like the original finish, plus it will be resistive to fuel and other types of stains for a gooood looooong time.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by Kurt in NJ

remember that the abrasive blast media is very hard to get out of the internal passages----untill the gas/air mixture moves through the manifold, then it will lap the rings and cylinders----I have seen the results, about the same as pouring sand down the intake

Kurt, it's always best NOT to glass bead those internal passageways and anything or anywhere else where embedded glass particles could do harm. When glass beading an aluminum intake manifold, it would be best to cover or plugup those areas of concern, and liberal use of an air hose after blasting would be recommended.

[Vanspeed]

Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan

Kurt, it's always best NOT to glass bead those internal passageways and anything or anywhere else where embedded glass particles could do harm. When glass beading an aluminum intake manifold, it would be best to cover or plugup those areas of concern, and liberal use of an air hose after blasting would be recommended.

I agree, I am going to tape off where the carb bolts on and blast it laying flat on a board to prevent as much media as I can from getting where it shouldn't. Then blow it out with air until any trace is gone.

[51 MERC-CT]

Anyone ever tried walnut shells instead of glass beads?

[Ronnie]

Here you go I have seen many failures due to poor blasting projects.

https://www.hastingsmfg.com/ServiceT...eaning_pis.htm

http://virtualindian.org/2techclean.htm

R