Metal strap for backrest frame - Sport Coupe

[Colonel Biggs]

I'm in the process of upholstering the backrest for my '30 Sport Coupe. Originally, the bellows assembly was held in place at the back of the frame by a metal strap, approximately 44" long. It fit into a recess in the back of the frame and was anchored by five screws.

In taking my backrest apart, I found a 1x1/2" rectangular strip of wood moulding had been used in lieu of the metal strap. Does anyone know what the exact dimensions of that strap are? L-B does not sell them (not an overwhelming demand for same), but is there anyone else who fabricates this item, or will this be a do-it-yourselfer? Also, does anyone know the specs for the five screws that are employed to hold the strap in place?

Thanks in advance!

Gordon
Houston, TX

[Bob from Northport]

I just disassembled the seat out of my 30' Sport coupe, and the metal strip was there secured by 5 screws. Pretty original car, in storage for over 40 years.
I will measure the strip as soon as I can get to the shop, and send the info to you. Also screw size.

[Colonel Biggs]

Gracias, Senor Bob from Newport.

I'm hoping that the metal strap is something that I can locate at Home Depot, or the equivalent.

The recess in the back of my backrest measures exactly 44" across by 7/8" wide. It's only 1/8" deep at the most. I'm guessing that the strap dimensions must be a little smaller than this, although the sleeve into which the strap fits is larger.

If you could also measure the thickness of the strap, that would help. I'm told that it is relatively thin.

Many thanks!

Gordon

[Colonel Biggs]

Could you also advise me on the spacing of the holes for the screws? I have holes in the wood from when there was a metal strap - about 2" from each end. The other three "appear" to be evenly spaced. I am assuming that the holes were centered on the width of the strap.

Thanks!

Gordon

[Colonel Biggs]

Many thanks. Do you remember the hole spacing, by any chance? I posted a follow-up question, but probably too late for your investigation. Then again, your backrest wood recess may not have had the screw holes drilled in from an earlier period. Also, do you recall the type of screws used? Flat head? Pan head?

Is there much bend to the 1/8" metal strap that you found at Lowe's? I didn't find much at Home Depot.

Appreciate your efforts!

[Colonel Biggs]

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Many thanks for your inputs and photos. I will try Lowe's today, and should be able to come up with some flat steel.

[Bob from Northport]

Sorry it took so long. Still winter here.
The metal strip is 44" long. Looks like about 3/4" wide maybe a bit more.
There are 5 holes, all counter sunk. The screws are oval head slotted screws, 3/4" -#8 screws.
From one end, the first hole is 1" on center, the second 11 1/2" on center, the third is
22" to center, the forth is 32 1/2" to center, and the fifth is 1" to center from end.

Hope this helps.

Bob

[Colonel Biggs]

Again, many thanks.

I found the metal bar at Lowe's; I'm surprised that HD did not carry any bar. As it turns out, the wood at the underside front edge of the package tray was rotted, but Lowe's carried a 1x2" red oak trim piece that fit the bill perfectly.

They also had a 1" crown moulding (my original had split in two places when removing it from the top of the backrest). Instead of using nails to secure it to the top of the backrest, I think that I will use SS flat head screws, which I will countersink. (Don't tell Henry...)

The front edge of the package tray (where the wood is screwed in place to receive the bellows material) had also rusted, as had the wood screws, and I had to drill out each of them. Instead of going with flat-head replacements, I think that I will use SS pan heads with flat washers. Although I have treated the rust and have painted the tray, I think that I will obtain a more secure fastening by not using flat head screws. On my next rebuild i will have to replace the package tray (I should live so long...).

Again, my thanks for your patience and attention to detail!

Gordon

[Marco Tahtaras]

Originally Posted by Colonel Biggs

Again, many thanks.

The front edge of the package tray (where the wood is screwed in place to receive the bellows material) had also rusted, as had the wood screws, and I had to drill out each of them. Instead of going with flat-head replacements, I think that I will use SS pan heads with flat washers. Although I have treated the rust and have painted the tray, I think that I will obtain a more secure fastening by not using flat head screws. On my next rebuild i will have to replace the package tray (I should live so long...).

Again, my thanks for your patience and attention to detail!

Gordon

Hi Gordan! If you attach the wood strip to the package tray as described it would be wise to shim up the trim panel equal to (or greater than) the thickness of the screw head plus washer. If not, the trim panel will be a wavy mess along the front of the tray.

[Colonel Biggs]

Greetings, senor!

It has been quite some time since we conversed last.

A very good point, and one which I also have been dwelling upon. At first thought, I assumed that that the package tray cover, which lies flat on top of the tray, might hide the ripples. But, now I'm not so sure. An alternative approach would be to use a narrow wood strip from side to side just above the front edge of the tray - one into which I could place countersinks.

Regardless, thanks for forcing me to contemplate the issue further!

Gordon

[Bob from Northport]

Mr. Biggs,
What is the crown molding you referred to in your discussion??

Bob

[Colonel Biggs]

Sir Northport --

The "cane" wooden moulding strip shown in the diagram is what Lebarron-Bonney calls "rattan." In lieu of same, they suggest a "half inch half round moulding." I call this (maybe incorrectly) a crown moulding. The base is one inch in diameter, and it is one-half of an inch in height at the crown.