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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 51
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After getting the engine together it is really tight. Without the pistons I can put my torque wrench on it and turns at less than 30 ft lb. But put the pistons in and it is tight.
The cylinders are bored out .060, the pistons are older with the side split but have never been used and have a have a scraper and expander on the middle ring. The pistons rings are consistent with the top ring gap is .012, the middle ring gas is .010 and lower .080. So all are at the tighter end of the tolerance. There is not any shiny spots on the skirts, the top slides easily on the wrist pin and is not binding against piston. Measured the width of the connecting at the big end to make sure it wasn't hanging up. The piston clearance is a little tight at .002 (skirt not ring end) but can still pull out the gauge. I thought I might have a bent connecting rod but all check out. Got a cylinder gauge and checked the bore diameters and checked fine. Loosened the caps just a little to make sure that they weren't too tight and binding. Measured ID of connecting big end to make sure no high spots in babbit. But still when get the 4th piston in it is almost impossible to turn the crank. I have tried different orders of putting the pistons in. I am out of ideas. I am almost at the point of ordering new pistons and rings but I can't definitely say that it would solve the problem. What am I missing. |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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Newly rebuilt engines are especially tight, and that's why I like to do several heat cool cycles before taking the car on the road. The front rope seal also adds friction until it's been run several hours.
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#3 |
BANNED
Join Date: May 2012
Location: inside your RAM
Posts: 3,134
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let us know how you make out
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'31 180A Last edited by tbirdtbird; 02-02-2017 at 11:57 PM. |
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 51
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I took the rods over to a local model a engine builder that check them on his connecting rod jig that checks alignment.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NC
Posts: 2,975
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With out seeing what you have it is hard to say. But your ring gap is to tight for a Model A. Also in my book you need at least .0035 clearnce on your piston. Again .001 per inch of bore. You Will find that a long stroke engine with a big bore is hard to turn when rebuilt. There is a lot of ring drag and with a long stroke the piston speed is much faster than a short stroke. That makes it hard to turn.
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#6 |
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Bay City Michigan
Posts: 1,050
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Between Seattle & Tacoma
Posts: 2,411
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I think .002 is trouble!!
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Chillicothe, Missouri
Posts: 1,684
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If it was mine I'd hone the cylinders until I had .003 to .0035 clearance.
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"If I asked people what they wanted they would have said faster horses." -Henry Ford "Primitive technology is not a design flaw" 1928 Ford Model A Roadster Pickup 1930 Gordon Smith Air Compressor 1941 Willy's Pickup 1960 Thunderbird-For Sale 1964 Buick Riviera 2x4 425 1965 Pontiac GTO, 455 Super Duty 2004 Dodge Ram SRT-10, V-10 Viper 1977 Charger Jet Boat,460 Ford,Jacuzzi Jet Front Engine Nostalgia Dragster,Supercharged 296 "Fullrace Flathead" Ford Engine Build up on DVD ask |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: anchorage, alaska
Posts: 119
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Connecting rod straightness can definitely hang things up.
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Asheville,NC
Posts: 3,104
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Better listen to George. This is another motor that will lock up when it gets to running temp.
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