Brakes (mechanical)

[daveymc29]

I'm just in the investigative stage and looking for answers. If I replace the parts from the hubs on out it appears I'm looking at spending approximately $2000.00. I'm thinking also of adding the brake floaters front and rear. Are the floaters worth the extra bucks or is that something that is stop gap for a not so good brake job? The things seem to me to be well worth the price if they perform as well as the advertising, so anyone with experience, feel free to chime in. Any advice will be gratefully received.

[Lazy Jake]

My experience: Complete brake job, new linings riveted onto refurbished shoes, cast iron brake drums, Flathead Ted deluxe kit. Stops my sightly hopped up Model A as well as the juice brakes on my '32 and...I smile at the fact that there is no M/C or slaves to leak or let go. I like my brakes!

[Jay's Model A's]

What is the correct way to mount the Emergency Bands to the backing plate..The triangle tab, does the triangle tabs go on each side of the backing plate ? ? Jay

[1930artdeco]

The whole kit and caboodle is going to run around $1000-assuming good hubs. That is new drums, shoes (bonded) and the springs etc. The floaters I am not convinced are needed. There are people here who have them and like them and then are those that have ripped them out. I was going to install them and Bert's told they sent them all back due to adjustment issues. Now my cars stops just fine without them, remember there cannot be any slop in the pins, rollers etc.-ZERO.

Mike

[daveymc29]

I figured the lot with drums and hubs, plus everything else new would be a tad over $2,00.00. Is that far off. I don't own a brake lathe anymore so all the machining now has to be sent out.

[waxhead]

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I just upgraded my brakes with cast iron drums and the Deluxe dead stop brake energizer kit from Flathead Ted. My brakes are soooooo much better than they were prior to the upgrade. I recommend this upgrade given my recent experience.

I ended up taking the easy option and bought the cast iron drums with hubs and new studs all ready installed

[jwaldrich]

I was just told by a machine shop that the new shoes do not need to be arc'd to the drums.
Anyone have info on that?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by jwaldrich

I was just told by a machine shop that the new shoes do not need to be arc'd to the drums.
Anyone have info on that?

I haven't arced shoes since the 70's when I worked at the GM dealership.

[1930artdeco]

I arched mine just a tad. Otherwise they really spot on an I could have left them.

Mike

[daveymc29]

I have been told that it is illegal in some CA cities to arc the shoes. Anyone know if that is true? I live in Danville, anyone know a shop near there that can arc shoes? Don't want to run afoul of the law. Any thoughts are appreciated.

[RandyinUtah]

When I recently purchased new cast iron drums and new hubs thay came with the drums turned to the original 11 inch size. The new linings were arc and very little needed to some off to get the linings back to a true 11 inch arc and I could have used the linings as they were. I replaced all brake parts and busings and it didn't come close to $2000.

[waxhead]

I didn't have to arch mine

[Kevin in NJ]

The shoes must be the same arc as the drums or you do not have full contact of the lining to the drums. Less then full contact means less then full brakes.

Shoes must be centered or you get less then full contact.

Floaters are not required for best braking. They only complicate matters. You still have to set the brakes up right first.

[jwaldrich]

Hopefully when I pull the front hubs I'll see why my brakes are pulsating so badly. The backs look great.

[Fullraceflathead]

Arcing the brake shoes is done to match the diameter of the brake drums diameter. If your drums are very close to original size the shoes should be very close to matching the drum size. The more the two sizes are off the less brake shoe contact you have. It is true that with time they will wear in. If they are really off in size it may take thousands of miles before they wear in.
Think of Brake shoe arcing like "Blue Printing" your brakes.
Brake Shoe Arcing was outlawed in many states as the dust was a Carcinogen.
Brake Shoes were once made of Asbestos.
Brake Shoes have not been made from Asbestos for a long time now so any current Brake Shoes are safe to Arc if needed.
I have a Brake Shoe Arcing machine from the '70's and do use it as needed.
Many larger Model A clubs have one.
If your drums are originals they most likely are way over the 11.000 and new shoes will fit very sloppy unless they are arced to the drum size.
New Cast Iron Drums and New Brakes Shoes would be the best bet for proper fit and minimal size variation.
Just my 2 cents!