The Ford Barn

MikeTaylor · 11-16-2014, 06:50 AM

Several of you have recommended pressure testing, something I'm not familiar with. The car came with an AL radiator and higher pressure cap, how much higher I don't know but I drove the car 600-700 miles before I starting tearing it apart and it didn't leak water or oil, not even on the garage floor. Is that a sufficient test or should I still have the test done?

Thanks, Mike

Mart · 11-16-2014, 08:33 AM

Personally that would be good enough for me.

Mart.

Fibber Mcgee · 11-16-2014, 09:29 AM

They make a plate that bolts to the heads and allows you to put higher pressure on the block but considering most flatheads are running 4psi or less I would agree with Mart unless you are about to sink a bunch of money into it.

VeryTangled · 11-16-2014, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeTaylor

The car came with an AL radiator and higher pressure cap, how much higher I don't know...

Hi MikeTaylor, I have no idea how much pressure is used when pressure testing a block, I'd be interested in knowing.

If you are curious, you can look at the newer style pressure caps and they will have their pressure rating marked on them, usually. Might be in bars (like .9 or 1.1) or might be in PSI. That would tell you the rating of the pressure valve that opens to allow flow to the coolant overflow tank.

Still, not sure any of this is able to be related to pressure testing a block during rebuild.

scooder · 11-16-2014, 12:49 PM

If it were my engine and I built it for me, I'm on Marts team aswell. You have evidence that it didn't use water or leak in the real world (driving it)
Martin.

Ronnie · 11-16-2014, 12:59 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by VeryTangled

Hi MikeTaylor, I have no idea how much pressure is used when pressure testing a block, I'd be interested in knowing.

If you are curious, you can look at the newer style pressure caps and they will have their pressure rating marked on them, usually. Might be in bars (like .9 or 1.1) or might be in PSI. That would tell you the rating of the pressure valve that opens to allow flow to the coolant overflow tank.

Still, not sure any of this is able to be related to pressure testing a block during rebuild.

Most shops pressure test to 40 psi.

R

Bored&Stroked · 11-16-2014, 06:23 PM

It sounds like you have an engine with a proven track record - so pressure testing is probably not needed. I'd still have it magged.

The reason I've done pressure testing is on a block that I'm going to do a large overbore and/or extensive port/relief work - really don't want to invest too much time on the block until I'm as sure as I can be about it. I bought a pressure testing kit from Speedway a few years ago - works great, just takes some time screwing around with it (one bank at a time).

Truth be told, I should pressure test them AFTER all the work has been done and before assembly . . . just too lazy to do it. (I'm sure I'll regret that someday!).

Best of luck,

B&S

tubman · 11-16-2014, 07:24 PM

I've got a couple of blocks I would like to test (8BA's). I've looked at the pressure testing setups available commercially, and believe I could do it a lot cheaper if I made my own stuff. As I understand it, the cooling passages on each side are completely inmdependant of each other, and therefore I would need to make only one plate for the head area and one for the water pump. Is this correct?

Kahuna · 11-16-2014, 07:35 PM

Tubman, that is correct.
It's very easy to make block-off plates using plywood.

JSeery · 11-16-2014, 07:41 PM

I have read of shops using up to 100 psi, is there any danger of damaging a block with high pressure?

Russ/40 · 11-16-2014, 07:42 PM

Mike, I agree with the concensus here. If you ran the engine significantly prior to disassembly you don't have any obscure water jacket cracks. There is still the possibility of cracks not involving any water jackets, that although are not causing any problems now, would be a shame to overlook prior to the big investment in a rebuild. I'd get it magged.

Ol' Ron · 11-16-2014, 08:14 PM

I have a cylinder head that has been modified for honing the block with it torqued down. With water pump block off plates, I use it to pressure test the block to 50 lbs. THis is the same as my local machine shop doz it.

Ralph Moore · 11-16-2014, 08:24 PM

I'm with Ron, Make a gasket with only bolt/ stud holes. Bolt/ torque on a stock head, then ad a water pump with a plug or use a block off plate for pump. Works fine and cheap to test your own block.

BILL WZOREK · 11-17-2014, 07:45 AM

When you guys pressure check the block no matter what pressure you choose / How long do you leave it pressurized waiting for leak down ??

11-16-2014, 06:50 AM	#1
MikeTaylor Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: southeastern South Dakota Posts: 7	Follow-up ? on 59A diasassembly Several of you have recommended pressure testing, something I'm not familiar with. The car came with an AL radiator and higher pressure cap, how much higher I don't know but I drove the car 600-700 miles before I starting tearing it apart and it didn't leak water or oil, not even on the garage floor. Is that a sufficient test or should I still have the test done? Thanks, Mike

11-16-2014, 08:33 AM	#2
Mart Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Solihull, England. Posts: 9,088	Re: Follow-up ? on 59A diasassembly Personally that would be good enough for me. Mart.

11-16-2014, 09:29 AM	#3
Fibber Mcgee Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Callahan Fla Posts: 1,149	Re: Follow-up ? on 59A diasassembly They make a plate that bolts to the heads and allows you to put higher pressure on the block but considering most flatheads are running 4psi or less I would agree with Mart unless you are about to sink a bunch of money into it. __________________ Wanted, a car with a " Dynaflex Superflowing Unijet Turbovasculator which is Syncromeshed to the Multicoil Hydrotensioned Dual vacuum Dynomometer. "

11-16-2014, 12:49 PM	#5
scooder Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Posts: 2,595	Re: Follow-up ? on 59A diasassembly If it were my engine and I built it for me, I'm on Marts team aswell. You have evidence that it didn't use water or leak in the real world (driving it) Martin.

11-16-2014, 06:23 PM	#7
Bored&Stroked Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 5,723	Re: Follow-up ? on 59A diasassembly It sounds like you have an engine with a proven track record - so pressure testing is probably not needed. I'd still have it magged. The reason I've done pressure testing is on a block that I'm going to do a large overbore and/or extensive port/relief work - really don't want to invest too much time on the block until I'm as sure as I can be about it. I bought a pressure testing kit from Speedway a few years ago - works great, just takes some time screwing around with it (one bank at a time). Truth be told, I should pressure test them AFTER all the work has been done and before assembly . . . just too lazy to do it. (I'm sure I'll regret that someday!). Best of luck, B&S

11-16-2014, 07:24 PM	#8
tubman Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys Posts: 11,639	Re: Follow-up ? on 59A diasassembly I've got a couple of blocks I would like to test (8BA's). I've looked at the pressure testing setups available commercially, and believe I could do it a lot cheaper if I made my own stuff. As I understand it, the cooling passages on each side are completely inmdependant of each other, and therefore I would need to make only one plate for the head area and one for the water pump. Is this correct?

11-16-2014, 07:35 PM	#9
Kahuna Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: NorCal Posts: 2,617	Re: Follow-up ? on 59A diasassembly Tubman, that is correct. It's very easy to make block-off plates using plywood.

11-16-2014, 07:41 PM	#10
JSeery Member Emeritus Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Wichita KS Posts: 16,132	Re: Follow-up ? on 59A diasassembly I have read of shops using up to 100 psi, is there any danger of damaging a block with high pressure?

11-16-2014, 07:42 PM	#11
Russ/40 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Santee, California Posts: 3,505	Re: Follow-up ? on 59A diasassembly Mike, I agree with the concensus here. If you ran the engine significantly prior to disassembly you don't have any obscure water jacket cracks. There is still the possibility of cracks not involving any water jackets, that although are not causing any problems now, would be a shame to overlook prior to the big investment in a rebuild. I'd get it magged.

11-16-2014, 08:14 PM	#12
Ol' Ron Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Chester Vt Posts: 8,985	Re: Follow-up ? on 59A diasassembly I have a cylinder head that has been modified for honing the block with it torqued down. With water pump block off plates, I use it to pressure test the block to 50 lbs. THis is the same as my local machine shop doz it.

11-16-2014, 08:24 PM	#13
Ralph Moore Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: North Pole, Alaska Posts: 1,470	Re: Follow-up ? on 59A diasassembly I'm with Ron, Make a gasket with only bolt/ stud holes. Bolt/ torque on a stock head, then ad a water pump with a plug or use a block off plate for pump. Works fine and cheap to test your own block.

11-17-2014, 07:45 AM	#14
BILL WZOREK Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Florence Ma. Posts: 2,404	Re: Follow-up ? on 59A diasassembly When you guys pressure check the block no matter what pressure you choose / How long do you leave it pressurized waiting for leak down ??