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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Carthage, Missouri
Posts: 267
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Someday I'm going to have to get a hub puller and wondered which one is better. Thanks. http://vintageprecision.com/products/hub_pullers/
http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=181209703309
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#2 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 593
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This is the one that I made like the one pictured on ebay. It works real well on Model A and also on the 40-48 Ford rear hubs. Afordman31
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#3 |
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: oroville calif
Posts: 892
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I use the big 3 arm puller, the one that is bolted to the drum with 3 lug nuts, I have found the drum comes off easier if you use two 3# hammers , put one on the back side of the drum snout as a back up, hit the other side with the other hammer, go all away the drum snout 2 or 3 times, doing that distorts the snout just a little bit breaking the friction and breaking up any rust on the end of the axle making it a lot easier to pull drum
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#4 |
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Fargo, ND
Posts: 73
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I have a Les Fairbanks puller that was designed for removing the rear drums from 1950s Chrysler products that have a tapered axle. It works really well. It pulls equally from all five studs as you tighten it down. I wonder if it will work on the Model A since it has the same bolt pattern. I'm wondering because I too would like to get the rear drums off and take a look at the brakes on my coupe.
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#5 |
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Carthage, Missouri
Posts: 267
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Thanks for replies. I've read some post that they used the stud type and damaged things when hub was really stuck on.
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#6 |
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#7 |
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Gloucester, Va
Posts: 471
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My roadster has two different rear hubs. One with the inside groove and the other with an outside ring. Snyder's universal puller # A-1114-X handles both types of these hubs and cars from 1928 to 1948. Have used it several times and it works like a charm.
Glen
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#8 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: South California
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Pay attention to what Lona says in his answer, as if you get a puller and/or make one that will only pull one of the two types mentioned...well problems. Worse problems is if you use a drum puller and come up against a real badly stuck drum. Model A drums are NOT thick/strong as more recent drums, so that damage / destruction of drum must be considered.
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#9 |
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Carthage, Missouri
Posts: 267
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I have the grooved drums like afordman shows in his picture , but im using 1940 wheels at the moment and my hub shows ,so ill have to repaint when i use this type of puller.
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#10 |
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 9,192
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Looks a lot like the one that Mitchell sells.
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#11 |
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: inside your RAM
Posts: 3,134
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Afordman31, nicely done
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#12 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: El Segundo CA
Posts: 181
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When pulling the drums off, back off the adjustment so the drum doesn't hang up on any grooves in the linings/drums.
Just did this on my Cabbie and worked fine. Dick |
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#13 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Stayton, Oregon
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You are correct. I have a Mitchell that I purchased from Bert's at a reasonable price. Works great. It is one that will take off both types of Model A hubs. I have one type on one car and the other type on the other car. So needed one like this.
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#14 |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Rocklin, CA
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The Mitchell is what we carry in the trouble truck on Summer Tours. It fits both style hubs and is compact and works very well.
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#15 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Camino, CA.
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I bought mine from a tool salesman on one of those sales trucks. It never fails.
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#16 |
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Carthage, Missouri
Posts: 267
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Is this the mitchell one from berts your talking about? http://parts.modelastore.com/show_Product.asp?ID=3371
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#17 |
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Arizona
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I've been using (Stanley) Proto 4011 and Proto 4001 (with pre-48 Ford adapter) for pulling hubs on all kinds of vehicles for many years, always dependably, but I'll certainly admit that the Mitchell Model A hub puller would take up a lot less room and weight in a road trip tool box.
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#18 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Stayton, Oregon
Posts: 3,806
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![]() Quote:
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#19 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 707
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I have the K. R. Wilson type puller that different vendors sell. It works well, but I suspect it works no better than some that are a whole lot cheaper. No matter what puller you use, leave the axle nut loosely in place. The hub often comes off with a hell of a bang!
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#20 |
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Bend Or.
Posts: 1,080
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There can be an advantage to the type that pulls from the studs, in the case I ran up against. My hub had the studs welded and one of the studs came loose. There was no way to remove the wheel, because the stud turned. I didn't have a puller that pulled from the studs and could not find one locally so made my own, using a three jaw puller mounted to the inside of an old hub. Sacrificed the hub cap but the hub and wheel came right off.
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