Best in Show, then Clutch hit floor

[bobpo1]

Took Ms Tillie to the 1st show of the season yesterday, got a nice trophy, then headed for home. About 2 miles from the show (30 miles from home), the gears started to grind during shifting and then the clutch went to the floor and stayed there. Had to be trailered home.

My first suspicion is the throw-out bearing, but I haven't gotten under the coupe yet. I did a search and I hope my suspicions are wrong, looks like a big job, maybe more than I can handle these days.

Any thoughts appreciated.....

[RonC]

First check your clutch adjusting yoke (May be striped) and clutch adjusting arm make be broke. If not the probably the pressure plate broke

[christian]

last year I had a similar issue. Spent about 20 minutes on the side of the road with the inspection plate off, playing with various things then realized it was simply the linkage shackle from the pedal to the clutch arm had snapped.

Its worth looking into.

[bobpo1]

I will check everything out shy of pulling the rear end and all. I have not gotten into the driveline of this car and don't look forward to doing that. I think there are a couple of shops in this part of NW Ohio that can or will take on a job like this. My ol' ticker doesn't permit me this luxury anymore.

But the Car Show was still fun. And the old Ford looked great on my son's trailer being pulled by his brand new Chev 3500. It actually added some Class to that new Chevy. LOL. For all most folks know it was being taken to a Car Show. Had it been on the back of a Tow Truck, they would know it had broken down.

[Purdy Swoft]

Here is a picture of the three styles of clutch release arms used with the model A . The arm to the left is the one used from mid 29 untill end of production and is more than likely your problem. .Though these arms are forged, because of age and stress, they often break where the pin attaches the arm to the clutch release shaft. The easiest way to fix is to break the old arm off, knock out the pin and replace with a new clutch arm. I used the new release arm from Brattons. part number 11270 page 51 price $21.00 . This part is longer than the original part and requires 30% less pressure to depress the clutch pedal. The way that this part is made, its npt likely that it will ever break. You wqon't need to remove the backend and transmission to replace this part.

[Barber31]

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What about that spring that connects to the throw out bearing? It could of snapped apart and now there's no tension to pull the throw out bearing back.

[Barber31]

I would think pulling the inspection plate off and checking to see if the bearing is sliding freely would be the easy way to rule that one out.

[PC/SR]

Not likely to be the throw out bearing yoke spring. That would just release the bearing to the pressure plate arms. Most likely clutch release arm broken, or disconnected or broken linkage, as noted. Check the easy stuff first.

[Purdy Swoft]

Originally Posted by Barber31

What about that spring that connects to the throw out bearing? It could of snapped apart and now there's no tension to pull the throw out bearing back.

Even if the spring is broken, the clutch would still work and the pedal wouldn't drop to the floor. Removing the inspection plate on the bell housing would require removing the floor mats and floor boards, not a particular fun job. I would check the easy stuff first. The clutch release arms are famous for cracking at the pin mount holes. I've had to make it home without use of the clutch a few times over the years for this exact problem.

[Brentwood Bob]

Trunion, or yoke, snaps also.
Bob

[700rpm]

I'll bet a dime it's the clutch release arm.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Yep, as Purdy said in #9, I've also seen a few broken arms, and would bet that's the problem.

[christian]

this is what caused my clutch to the floor.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Christian, I don't understand how your's worked.
Where is the trunoin, and why are there 3 nuts on the threads?

[christian]

No idea Tom, must have been a farmer fix, was like that when I got it. It appears that a long bolt was welded to the end of the shackle, and because the bolt was narrower than the original, the two nuts on the end held the trunion in place.

[Vic in E-TN]

About 15 years I was in a parade and the CAST made in India release trunnion broke at where the threads started. It even had the "Made in India" tag on it. Probably from Rick"s at the time. I needed to go home and get one off another car. The replacement was quick and easy. I found a replacement arm that was not a cast POS. There are good ones out there.
Vic

[Brentwood Bob]

Let us know what you found. Bob

[bobpo1]

I will keep you guys informed as to what I find. Didn't have to sit in the hospital and get blood today (whew.!) so I will have some time to check it out.

I did find a guy who works on these cars and if I can't fix it myself, I'll take it to him. I learned he has a mechanic who specializes on them. Maybe I can have a few other things checked out while they're at it.

[700rpm]

I would suggest you contact your local Model A club and get a reference on a reliable Model A mechanic. Or, at the very least, closely question the "guy who works on these cars" and his mechanic to determine exactly what their experience is.

[bobpo1]

Point well taken and I will do so.