Now the light switch body..more questions

[30 A Ripper]

Try as I might, always some stumper pops up <G>.

After switch rod arrived, I bought final pieces at Zephyrhills today to complete lighting/horn assembly on the steering column: spring, spider, retainer, the light switch body and the switch bail.

I see where switch body has an upper and lower part but mine are pretty stuck together. Thinking will apply two pipe wenches or channel locks to counter twist apart? Any cautions would be appreciated.

The bigger problem appears to be when looking into the bottom of the switch body. How are the headlite and horn wires attached?

Earlier I assumed some kind of screw down of wires was possible. is there a plug needed?

The car does not have the original wiring. Can I fabricate a plug or whatever?

Just looking at the parts, how does the retainer the spider with the switch rod?

Dick

[Joe K]

Sounds like you need an original wiring harness, which includes the "switch plate" which is circular and plastic and typically has brass buttons for the switch fingers to contact. I'll try to post a pix.

Here's the switch plate. You can see the harness in the background (loom covered.)



The wiring is all color coded and matches the wiring diagram shown at http://www.modelaford.org/technical/...amcolor2sm.jpg

The harness is not that expensive. You'll have an equal amount in materials if you try to make your own. Used to run about $30 but maybe a bit more now. If yours a later "twolight" car you should have only minor problems with parts secured from your favorite parts vendor. Most vendors source from the same places.

The switch plate above is "sandwiched" into the two egg shaped halves of the switch body with the brass buttons able to touch the copper fingers. The wiring/loom/covering comes out through the large hole in the bottom of the lower egg half. (The egg upper and lower segments will only go together one orientation.) The wiring harness and switch thus make a "unit."

With the steering column assembled and with your switch rod/spring/spyder/retainer clip put together (in that order) you then plug the circular top of the switch body to the bottom of the steering box/column. The prongs of the spyder should go into the slots in the top of the switch body. (Thus the copper fingers inside the switch body/egg are moved as you turn the handle at the steering wheel.)

Switch body "egg"/steering column should go together in proper orientation if you have the lowermost steering column switch body receiver correct side up (these parts are keyed together and you want the wiring exiting the "front side" of the switch body facing the front of the car.) There is a drain hole in the switch body which should point "down." A bail type thingy holds the switch body to the bottom of the steering column.

You then stretch the wiring loom out along the nearest frame portion of the car using little metal "clips" to hold the wiring in place. Path of the wire is not consistent too much between cars with each worker of that period doing the wire placement and clips as he saw fit - but the wire paths are pretty general and intuitive anyway.

You can look at other cars to get a sense of how it should be done in visible areas like at the generator, alongside the engine, the parts that show and matter.

We can discuss your issues going into the headlights when you get to this part. I usually DO NOT use the Ford standard plastic plugs for this connection. But we can talk on alternate ways to do this.

Hope this helps,
Joe K

[Mike V. Florida]

This may help some;

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=127448

[jm29henry]

most supplier sell a book with a wiring diagram they are not exspensive and if you buy a new harness it is really easy to use

[700rpm]

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Sacramento Vintage Ford has a good reputation for the wiring harnesses. They make their own, so you know the source.