Pulled the engine on my Roadster yesterday

[John Stone]

It was making some noise. Short out #2 and #3 spark plugs and it got quiet. Also it hadn't been out for a lot of years. The center main was a little loose but the disturbing thing I saw was the crank was in crooked by .035 from front to back. I have always had a clutch chattering problem. Will the bad boring job do that?

I did not pour the mains and line bore it. The misalignment of the boring job is the reason I started doing it 12 years ago. The last engine the shop did for me in 2001 was .050 out. Also they recycled the babbit. I use the Grade 11 stuff and never the old stuff. What is a good use for the old stuff?

This is the engine my Dad and a one armed preacher pulled out of a hog pen.

Can't do much work on it because of the Sunflower Swap Meet Feb 7 & 8 but it will be a nice project to take up my little bit of free time.

[Mark in MT]

Hi John: You can make a mold and produce babbitt hammers. I am saving all the old babbitt I have for this, maybe using a popcan as the mold , then drilling a cross hole for the hammer handle. When they get chewed up, you just re cast them.

[George Miller]

Originally Posted by John Stone

It was making some noise. Short out #2 and #3 spark plugs and it got quiet. Also it hadn't been out for a lot of years. The center main was a little loose but the disturbing thing I saw was the crank was in crooked by .035 from front to back. I have always had a clutch chattering problem. Will the bad boring job do that?

I did not pour the mains and line bore it. The misalignment of the boring job is the reason I started doing it 12 years ago. The last engine the shop did for me in 2001 was .050 out. Also they recycled the babbit. I use the Grade 11 stuff and never the old stuff. What is a good use for the old stuff?

This is the engine my Dad and a one armed preacher pulled out of a hog pen.

Can't do much work on it because of the Sunflower Swap Meet Feb 7 & 8 but it will be a nice project to take up my little bit of free time.

Is the mains bored out of line or is the cylinders bored off the center line of the crank. If the mains are off that far it could help cause clutch chatter.

[John Stone]

The mains were bored off that much.

[larrys40]

And you're measuring by what method to determine this ? I wouldn't necessarily attribute a clutch chatter problem to that . I would get the crank checked first to determine true and then determine the fact if a complete rebuild

[31 A4door]

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I had my T block done and it is not bored in line with the block. I made it work but it took a L o n g time to do it. My A block went in the shop yesterday for hardened seats and valves, then it's off for new babbitt next week. I REALLY hope he bores it correctly this time.

[George Miller]

If the mains are off that far,I would not except it. It will mess up every thing. Your rods will have to twist on the way up and down. Which could cause the wrist pins to come out. It could also make some noise. The timing gear mesh could be off also depending which end is off. The transmission will not be in line with the crank. Starter mesh might be off. Plus more. If he can not get it right on he is not a machinist. I would find some one else.

[John Stone]

The shop that did this is no longer in business. Shoddy workmanship is the primary reason. The Dad started the business and when he died, his sons took over. Never was as good after that.

I will just do it myself.

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

As George said, .035 thousandths is way to much, not usable!

The problem is, not knowing what they doing, and using a Fixed center boring bar for alignment. I have owned and used just about all except one. I have never found one that wasn't off by at least .010 thousandths, + or - Zero, even my TA-15, as it all depends on each Block. That is just not acceptable when it is so easy to center the bar to with in .001 thousandths of the main bolt holes. Once you get the bar centered, that setting has to stay there.

Then the UP and Down adjustment is utilized.

New time gears have to be used like the ones that you are installing because "THEY ARE ALL DIFFERENT". One is put on the cam and put in the block, and the other is put on the boring bar, and a dial indicator will get your setting of .005 thousandths that Dan wants.

Once you get the time gear clearance, you have to see what the new center distance is, because time gear clearance will establish that. Then the New center distance has to be transfered to the rear of the crank so the crank is parallel to the block.

Now, when the crank, as in this case, is off side ways by .035 thousandths, that means the Pilot shaft is missing true center and Alignment by .017-50 thousandths. There is no way that a clutch plate would ever work right with out grabbing as the pressure plate could not put equal pressure on the whole circumference of the clutch plate. That is why also the Flywheel Housing Alignment is so important. If you do those the way you should, you should be able to Align, + or - of flat by no more then .005 thousandths.

You can't put a .010 thousandths shim on just two bolts, and say I can't get it any closer.

John the way it was told to me is, that the Dad didn't do much different then the boys.