model a frame painting

[reggiedog]

Has anyone used the eastwood's Rust-encapsulator and there 3X Extreme Chassis black. I'm trying to paint my model a frame but I'm between what kind of paint to put on the frame. So I don't know if I should put eastwoods encapsulator and the 3X Extreme Chassis Black. Or por-15 FTW and go that way . Don't know as to what to do a lot of people have told me to use eastwoods paint then again I have had people tell me to use krylon. So I just want to find out if eastwoods paint holds up or is por-15ftw better. Thanks let me know reggiedog

[Terry, NJ]

I used Magnet paint's Chassis Saver. Magnet paint is an old manufacturer, from NY. They mostly make paint for fleets. "Chassis Saver is very similar to POR-15 only cheaper.($110 Gal) Just Google Magnet Paint
Terry

[Mitch//pa]

think about powder coating it

[reggiedog]

can you put like a different kind of paint over the magnet chassis saver????. or do u have to just put that stuff on and leave it. Any primmer or clear coat over it to keep it on with out the sun or u.v. protection in the magnet paint. There's got to be some thing that can go over it to protect it from U.V. sun light like clear coat????? Thanks let me know reggiedog

[Terry, NJ]

Although the Chassis Saver is a glossy black when It first goes on, they recommend putting a top coat of something over it. I know nothing about paint and Painting! Some one who does told me about it. The sample kit that they were given had a piece of thin steel the had been painted with C.S. and you were told to bend it any and all ways to show how the paint would stand up to flexing. Some Don'ts; Don't get it on your hands, It must wear off and it can take over a week to get it all off. Don't leave your can open! I brush coated the frame and left the can open as I dipped the brush and after a very short time it was beginning to get hard ("Hard" with this stuff is like glass) I quick poured out what I thought I might need and closed it up. It can be sprayed on too. Wear a mask when working with it. Another thing, The VOC charges are very small or non existant. A few FBers have used it also.
Terry

Originally Posted by reggiedog

can you put like a different kind of paint over the magnet chassis saver????. or do u have to just put that stuff on and leave it. Any primmer or clear coat over it to keep it on with out the sun or u.v. protection in the magnet paint. There's got to be some thing that can go over it to protect it from U.V. sun light like clear coat????? Thanks let me know reggiedog

[Rock Hornbuckle]

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POR 15 is more expensive, but you get what you pay for, a very extremely tough coating. I had coated a fender brace with POR 15, and then found that I needed to take a slight bend out of it. I heated it with a torch and the POR 15 was only lightly damaged. To test how tough it was. I coated a drinking glass then hit the glass with a hammer, the glass cracked, but did not shatter.

[Roadster62]

Does it really matter? The chassis has lasted 80+ years, sandblast it, prime it, and paint it. Bob

[reggiedog]

does any one know what kind of paint I use to top coat it with ????. I think I'm going to get this paint, but I need to know as to what to put on top of it ????. I want it glossy black I know ford didn't use glossy black but I am.

[SeaSlugs]

i plan to por 15 mine. there isnt a whole lotta spots where sunlight can reach the frame and if it starts changing colors on you just go over those spots with black rustoleum and noone will ever know.

[BashawT]

I used eastwoods epoxy primer followed by their 2k chassis black. I sprayed it with an hvlp gun and am really happy with the results. I had a thread a while back about it.

[BashawT]

http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread...hlight=bashawt

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by reggiedog

does any one know what kind of paint I use to top coat it with ????. I think I'm going to get this paint, but I need to know as to what to put on top of it ????. I want it glossy black I know ford didn't use glossy black but I am.

I agree with Bob. The way we treat these A's the chassis paint will outlast us. I'm not of fan of POR 15 and Chassis Saver sure sounds like the same stuff. I would sandblast the frame and spray it with DP90, then since you want a shiney black top coat it with DCC 9000.

Ideally I would want my chassis to look like Marco's and several other high point A's, and I don't feel that is possible with POR 15 or a similar product.

[H. L. Chauvin]

Hi reggiedog,

Have no experience with Eastwood's Rust-encapsulator, but it "sound" good, plus Eastwood is an outstanding company with a reputation of offering the "best of the best" products among body repair men.

Have experience with POR 15 - this is definitely not an experienced painter's paint.

If one contacts experienced POR salesmen, they will admit that experienced hard headed painters screw up POR 15 every time by cutting corners & not following "exact" required surface preparation, material application, & recommended appropriate time between coats. In short, it is "not" paint.

Mr. Hornbuckle gives a good description above.

Read POR 15 instructions at least twice.

Then to become a POR expert, try experimenting with several "deviations" from POR 15's exact "written" instructions & watch these POR 15 products fail & peel as easily as peeling a banana.

Successfully painted two Model A chassis with POR 15 -- one 17 years ago.

In my opinion, POR 15 should last until we "totally" pay off our current $16 T in debt -- i.e., "Wow", how long is that? LOL

[SeaSlugs]

yea prep is key to por 15. I plan to get my frame sandblasted so its going to be clean as clean can be. It will adhere directly to rust that I will agree but already painted surfaces it will not stick worth a darn.

ive done several parts with the stuff and am pleased with the results.

whatever you do DO NOT SHAKE the can it will give you very poor results due to tiny air bubbles in the paint. They recommend 2 coats so you dont miss any spots.

[Arlen]

Ive used their frame paint before. Wasn't really all that impressed. If your not going to powder coat the frame, I too would recommend por-15. Just make sure to wear gloves

[Terry, NJ]

Magnet paints makes other paints also. Just go to their paint site and order a gallon of black "Magnatron" and do your fenders with it. I never used POR 15 and I understand it's good, but I have used Chassis Saver and I know it's good. Keith True talks about using by the drum to paint a fleet of trucks in NH with it's winters and salt and claims the paint holds up. Ask him.
Terry

Originally Posted by reggiedog

does any one know what kind of paint I use to top coat it with ????. I think I'm going to get this paint, but I need to know as to what to put on top of it ????. I want it glossy black I know ford didn't use glossy black but I am.

[H. L. Chauvin]

In not trying to be facetious, & in only trying to help & warn users with important "don'ts", these are just a few tips on how to have a very "miserable" experience with POR 15:

1. Buy in large gallon cans for small jobs so the liquid it can get ruined by multiple opening of cans & exposure to atmosphere.
2. Shake can to make small bubbles to create horrible surface blotches for modern artistic effects.
3. Don't cover can with a recommended Saran-wrap layer prior to replacing can cover -- tomorrow it will only take two (2) crowbars to remove lid & then throw the can away.
4. Don't wear plastic gloves as recommended -- let POR 15 dry on your skin & wear the paint for eight months or longer -- it will not come off; but just tell everyone it is a new Model A Club tattoo.
5. Clean surfaces with paint thinner or Joy liquid in lieu of recommended POR Marine clean to leave a film to which POR 15 will not chemically or mechanically adhere.
6. Apply POR 15 on a rainy day or early morning when humidity is highest so cute little moisture bubbles will occur everywhere.
7. Do not keep SS, aluminum, galvanized metal, & slick shiny metal "wet" for about 20 minutes for recommended etching with POR 15 Prep & Ready so you can later brush POR15 off with a toothbrush, or scrape it off with a butter knife.
8. Wait too late between coats to apply subsequent coats; or do not sand between coats as recommended after first coat has cured so the subsequent coat can peel like sunburned skin on an albino first time sunbather.
9. Do not pour out recommended small amounts that can be used in about 20 minutes -- pour out a lot to use for an hour & let it get thickened by the atmosphere for a horrible mess that looks like you painted it with pancake batter.
10. Mix old exposed liquid POR 15 with fresh POR 15 to get blobs, bumps, and a bumpy surface that looks like it was painted by a live mule using his tail.
11. Use POR 15 for temporary coatings for short periods of time for planned later removal -- at time of removal, get prepared -- (4) cases of dynamite, a bulldozer, & go to the beach for an abundance of sand for your hi-pressure sand blaster.

Most people who have painted already know that most of the above listed (11) items will not have a tremendous adverse effect on "paint"; however, the key is that POR 15 is "not" paint.

Others may have experienced other happenings & can report a few more "don'ts" to add to this list to help others to have respect for following POR 15 instructions exactly as written.

Hope this helps.

[Doug in NJ]

I used Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black on lots of chassis parts, and it worked well.
It dries very tough, but it needs a couple of days to fully cure.

Doug

[Aok]

I have used the eastwood encapsulator on a frame and por 15 for some smaller parts 8 - 10 years back. I do not like it and would not use it again. I prefer to clean the frame the best I can then use a a metal wash ( phosphorous acid products) Prime and use a good enamel paint. This holds up well yes it is a little more work then paining over rust but I think it is a better option.

[1931 flamingo]

I don't know, clean, prime with something and then rustoleum, it will outlast any of us and not that expensive. JMO
Paul in CT