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#1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 4
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My 49 F1 started overheating. Pulled the thermostats & tested. Made sure they were installed correct. What am I missing?
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Star, MS
Posts: 4,120
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Is it loosing water? I would start by warming the engine to make sure thermostats are open, fill radiator to the top, remove the water pump belt(s), run the engine and look for bubbles in the radiator neck. Bubbles will indicate leakage from the combustion chamber.
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#3 |
Senior Member
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Leave the thermos out
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#4 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 4
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Thanks, will try. It holds water pretty good. Heats up to stall after driving a block
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 2,706
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What is the condition of the rest of your cooling system? when did you change coolant last , when was the last time the radiator was serviced?
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Gloucester VA
Posts: 1,042
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Lonnie |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Waddell, AZ
Posts: 2,540
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welcome to the 'Barn....got pics??....hope your problem gets solved with minimum fuss.....Mike
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#8 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 756
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Before I pulled it apart I'd at least try torquing the heads, always best to do the cheap and easy stuff first, IMHO. |
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#9 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 4
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So, the thermostats have been in and out so many times. what the proper direction. Thermo is stamped "Radiator" direction. Toward radiator or toward block
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 756
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The side with the spring mechanism is what senses the water temp. It needs to be to on the "hot" side or towards the block.
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: East Hartford, Ct
Posts: 5,898
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As stated, spring towards block sitting in goose neck like this.
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Lyman,ME.
Posts: 2,890
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Isn't it ironic that your having a heating problem and your name is "Wasabi" Mike?.... Mark
P.S. I'm not making light of your issue and I do hope you get it solved before any damage is done.
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#13 |
Senior Member
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Like I said leave them outttttttttttttt until you find out what's wrong with it .Ted
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#14 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: now Kuna, Idaho
Posts: 3,818
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Just my thoughts based on your stalling comment. |
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#15 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 4
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So, it has a 4# radiator cap. After a driving a block, it heats up enough to spew water out of the cap thus getting coil & disttributor wet, hence engine stalling
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#16 |
Senior Member
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The cap should not leak it should spew out the over flow pipe .replace the cap and check that the overflow pipe is clear , It could be a head gasket ,but do the other first ,Ted
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#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: NW North Carolina
Posts: 461
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was talking to someone today about a Flathead overheating. The owner pickup a newly rebuilt engine and it overheated before he got home.
Turns out he did not clean out the radiator when the engine was rebuilt.
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#18 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Florida and Penna.
Posts: 4,471
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If it don't get over 210 it's not hot enough to blow out through a 4 lb pressure cap. If it's not hot and water comes out it's a compression leak or the cap isn't working. It could be that it no longer holds 4 lbs or the most likely case the rubber at the bottom of the cap is NOT touching the washer like seat down in the bottom of the filler neck. For some reason almost all 4 lb caps don't seat. When you put the cap on line up the locking tabs and you should be able to feel the spring pressure on the bottom seat before the underside of the top of the cap hits the top of the filler neck. I have to cut a red rubber washer about 1/8" thick and put it down on the bottom seat after cleaning it good. Fill the coolant up into the filler neck it will run cooler with more coolant. G.M.
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